Please show off what crt shaders can do!

Yep, rear projection CRT. They were known for having pretty bad picture quality :stuck_out_tongue: Their big selling point was screen size.

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Hopefully these look less like a rear-projection tv. Changed the curvature some, and lowered the deconvergence some. Is the paleness part of the issue? (If so my next shots I’ll fix that some.)

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heh, yeah, that was part of it. I didn’t mean it as a dig, though.

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Fiddled with the settings some more, reduced the paleness some. Reduced the deconvergence some, did some new stuff with color. (Removed some green from white, and added some yellow to red, on top of the rest that I normally do.) And lowered the vignette strength slightly.

@hunterk you’re fine man, I didn’t take it that way. As soon as you said it I was like “oh, yeah, I see that.”. That’s just not what I was going for currently.

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The images are a bit washed out and lacking in dynamic range, which is also reminiscent of RPTVs. The color tinting stuff just washes the image out more; not good unless you’re going for a particular vintage.

It’s just really difficult to have good dynamic range while having a decent scanline ratio and using a mask effect.

Hmmm, I’ll try something tomorrow. There’s a few things I’m doing that may be able to be adjusted so this looks better. For starters I won’t mess with the black level. But there’s some other things I’m doing that’s washing out the image some as well.

Here’s a combination screenshot set. I attempted to fix the washout. And at the same time I took two screenshots of every scene The first shot I’m leaving the color alone and the second shot has color adjustments. (I’ll have to play around with the color adjustments more, as I’m messing with the blue too much it seems.)


@Syh - a bit too blurry I think. Everything else looking great!


I’ll try and sharpen it up a little, though I’m not sure if I want it much sharper then this.

I’m going to try and take some shots of the bloom setup I’ve been messing with.

I’m also wanting to fiddle with some other settings.

There’s some things going on in this setup that need motion to show off, so I may look into recording some gameplay. (Just depends on if I can figure it out and how bad the video quality ends up.)

Here’s a handy test screen from Fudoh’s 240p Test Suite for adjusting sharpness. The black circle should appear solid black at normal distance.

Horizontal sharpness 6.00, substractive sharpness 0.50. IMO this is about as sharp as a consumer grade Trinitron that’s calibrated.

Horizontal sharpness 3.00, substractive sharpness 0.00. Too blurry. The sides of the circle don’t look solid anymore.


I’m not trying to simulate a Trinitron really, I’m just doing whatever looks good to me honestly. (I’m trying to not get crazy with things though. Hence the adjustment of settings from feedback.)

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No worries, I wasn’t suggesting that’s what you should be going for. It’s just a handy tool. You want black outlines to be black though, right?

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I want to preface this with this isn’t meant to come off as defensive, I’m just try to share my personal knowledge and opinion, on the matter.

From my understanding from when I used to do pixel art, most of the time were not really using black outlines to have “black outlines”, we’re using them to create contrast in the image and make the thing with an outline stand out more against the background. (That’s why in a lot of higher end “bit?” pixel art, they use the “darkest” shades of the other colors as outlines, because they had the color count to do this. This usually creates a smoother transition into the background while still standing out enough to not affect readability.)

This may also vary artist to artist so grain of salt, lol.

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Yeah, I don’t think there’s one right answer to this as different artists employed different techniques. Probably something that should be adjusted per-game. I know I like a heavier blur when playing PSX stuff because those low res textures are rough. I actually usually prefer sharper settings for older content since too much blur causes some small details to be lost.

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It’s basically just guest-dr-venom with deconvergence and color adjustments, soo… 🤷.

Maybe your talking about the settings, lol.

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I also had a crappy TV with just composite inputs growing up, 20” screen, and it was a lot sharper than these examples. By the 1980s most TVs had good analogue comb filters, afaik.

But he already said he’s not going for accuracy per se, just what looks good to him… :man_shrugging:


Just to clarify some things.

I grew up playing my systems (NES, SNES, Genesis) by running composite to my vcr, then from the vcr running RF/coaxial (so wasn’t really running in composite) into one of those big “wood” floor model CRT’s. (So early 80’s, late 70’s model I’d assume.)

I didn’t get to use actual full-blown composite until the N64 and PS1. When I had my own 17-19" POS CRT with composite input.

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My screenshots are going to be worse looking going forward as I’m going to start experimenting with video signal shaders (composite, s-video) and most likely hack together a VHS shader.

Figured out the rough shape of my chain for ntsc and VHS inclusion. It’s going to take me two passes for the VHS, mainly because chroma smear is getting it’s own pass and the other VHS effects are going in a separate pass. (So I’ll have to work on the VHS effects pass mainly, lol.)

The ntsc side is where it gets more complicated, I want something I can switch between signals without switching shaders (composite, s-video, RGB=Pass-through). Ntsc-adaptive almost does this, it’s just missing the pass-through. Haven’t tried all of the ntsc shaders yet, though almost.

If you’re okay with passthru (i.e., no effect at all), just make a pass that sits after ntsc-adaptive and have it either sample their output or the one before them (or Original/OrigTexture or whatever) based on a parameter.

Could I do that with the second ntsc-adaptive pass? (I’m trying to keep my pass count down some.)