Using a CRT monitor with Retroarch

Well, it’s radeon driver on HD6670 in any case.

EDIT: The DE is Xfce. Also I can’t seem to find a way to add a new resolution to the system for the KMS mode.

Apparently the recent builds produce a detailed error message. Is this supposed to be a driver bug?

X Error of failed request: BadValue (integer parameter out of range for operation) Major opcode of failed request: 152 (XFree86-VidModeExtension) Minor opcode of failed request: 10 (XF86VidModeSwitchToMode) Value in failed request: 0x4aa Serial number of failed request: 31 Current serial number in output stream: 33

I just came across this thread while trying to find how a CRT Monitor would deal with Retro consoles. I do have RA as well in my PC.

NOW I am getting this 22" IBM Monitor 673560N C220p Think vision monitor for really cheap. It has a VGA and DVI-A in.

My PC is i7 4790k and gtx970.

I was wondering is it a good model to get for retro ?? Esp. Considering the 2k resolution it has…

Will it support the 240p resolution via Nvidia custom resolutions and or if I hook up my retro Trio console through a DVD recorders VGA out?

Thanks!

it should be good. That aperture grill screen is gonna look awesome. In Windows, I’m not sure how to force 240p resolutions with an Nvidia card (AMD cards can use crt-emudriver) but you can very easily do 480p resolutions and use the interlacing shader to print solid black over every other line. This doesn’t look quite as nice as a true 240p resolution but it’s close and it will properly handle 480i resolutions, which are common N64/PS1 games, particularly for menus.

If you do want to try for true 240p, the monitor is more likely to accept 120+ hz refresh rates that keep it in the 31 khz horizontal scan rate range rather than the 15 khz rate that normal TVs use. Speaking of which, your Retro Trio probably isn’t going to work because it puts out a 15 khz signal.

[QUOTE=hunterk;47191]it should be good. That aperture grill screen is gonna look awesome. In Windows, I’m not sure how to force 240p resolutions with an Nvidia card (AMD cards can use crt-emudriver) but you can very easily do 480p resolutions and use the interlacing shader to print solid black over every other line. This doesn’t look quite as nice as a true 240p resolution but it’s close and it will properly handle 480i resolutions, which are common N64/PS1 games, particularly for menus.

If you do want to try for true 240p, the monitor is more likely to accept 120+ hz refresh rates that keep it in the 31 khz horizontal scan rate range rather than the 15 khz rate that normal TVs use. Speaking of which, your Retro Trio probably isn’t going to work because it puts out a 15 khz signal.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for quick reply I’m going to order it today.

Nvidia does have a menu for custom resolutions in its control panel. But I have only used it to set higher than supported resolutions.

& You mean to say, Retro Trio won’t work at all? It works with my current Benq GL2450B. I hook it up to the S-Video in on my DVD recorder and output thorugh VGA or Component.

[QUOTE=NHS2008;47199]Thanks for quick reply I’m going to order it today.

Nvidia does have a menu for custom resolutions in its control panel. But I have only used it to set higher than supported resolutions.

& You mean to say, Retro Trio won’t work at all? It works with my current Benq GL2450B. I hook it up to the S-Video in on my DVD recorder and output thorugh VGA or Component.[/QUOTE]

You’re converting the device’s 15kHz signal into something usable by the PC monitor with that process, that’s why he said it’s not working. And it’s indeed quite a “dirty” process, if you know what it involves. The results can only be extremely poor. So much, that once you get RA properly configured [does RA support black-frame insertion? Check it out if the monitor supports 640x480 at 120 Hz, that should be the best way with your hardware] , you’ll never touch that device again, since most games it runs are very-well emulated with RA.

If your DVD recorder includes a scan converter, it can work, yeah. If you already have it working with a 31 khz monitor, there’s no reason it wouldn’t work with this one, as well.

@Milsancho RA does indeed support Black Frame Insertion (BFI). It’s in settings > video.

Actually I thought RA was only on PS3. And I felit like being a puritan…But the very day I ordered it, I found Retroarch on PC!

[QUOTE=hunterk;47209]If your DVD recorder includes a scan converter, it can work, yeah. If you already have it working with a 31 khz monitor, there’s no reason it wouldn’t work with this one, as well.

@Milsancho RA does indeed support Black Frame Insertion (BFI). It’s in settings > video.[/QUOTE]

Yes it works on my LCD Monitor.

Actually I am now having another choice…

There’s a guy selling an OLD Panasonic 21" CRT TV with S-video, Component, composite inputs and etc… I am tempted to buy that instead of this IBM monitor. both priced exact same…

It depends on what you’re wanting to do with it. If you want to run RA through it, you’re better off with the PC monitor. If you just want to use your Retro Trio, the TV is a better option.

While you can force a PC (and consequently, RA) through a regular TV, it’s a serious hassle. Since that TV has component inputs, you could get a VGA to component transcoder for ~$50 but I generally recommend people use the Wii port (or PS3 if you have one already) of RA in that case because it’s simpler than trying to get a PC down to 15 khz.

[QUOTE=hunterk;47227]It depends on what you’re wanting to do with it. If you want to run RA through it, you’re better off with the PC monitor. If you just want to use your Retro Trio, the TV is a better option.

While you can force a PC (and consequently, RA) through a regular TV, it’s a serious hassle. Since that TV has component inputs, you could get a VGA to component transcoder for ~$50 but I generally recommend people use the Wii port (or PS3 if you have one already) of RA in that case because it’s simpler than trying to get a PC down to 15 khz.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for clarifying some of my doubts. I do have a PS3 with Retroarch setup. And also have a softmodded Wii & have original XBOX with Coinops 8 Massive and I JUST found that it has a Retroarch too!! So I think I might go with TV considering both are about same size. I will miss out on awesome high hz for PC games though…dillemma… XD

They also simply look very different. 31 khz monitors have very obvious, defined scanlines, and the gaps between them are inky black, while a 15 khz TV barely shows them, even with high-quality connections, such as component.

Some people don’t like the 31 khz look, others think 15 khz looks too muddy. It’s up to personal preference. I like them both. /shrug

One thing to keep in mind is that component (YPbPr) is not RGB. Picture quality, and specially color fidelity, is lower than with the latter. So while you have on the one hand one of the best monitors ever made for 31 kHz attending to pic quality and size (call it a premium, uncommon option), on the other you’re been offered a run-of-the-mill TV set which most people are getting for free, specially with that size.

If you’re really interested in playing old games in the best conditions you’ll end up getting a 15-kHz TV/monitor with RGB input when you get more educated on the subject, and that one actually won’t replace the 31kHz PC monitor, but will go together with it, since you’ll have more systems (real or emulated) and realize that both are necessary and totally different.

^ In case I didn’t make myself clear enough, go get the 22’’ PC CRT and don’t even think about it. If you’re only used to flat monitors, you’ll be amazed by how your XBox (and even your PS3, since that monitor should have a Trinitron tube and therefore support sync-on-green) are displayed against the LCD or whatever shit you’ve been using up until now. And as a bonus, you’ll get decent quality (some will say even “superb quality”) for 15kHz games with PC emulators until that moment you can get an RGB 15kHz set.

Thanks for “clearing up”.I don’t think I will ever get an RGB set. I am only taking these because they’re sold REAL cheap… Now I feel like taking them both, …though I don’t really have space for either.

Its an IBM Monitor, how will it have Trinitron tube? If I get the monitor, I will need to get a Component to VGA Converter right? I have a VGA to Component (or vice versa, not sure) cable. which doesn’t work with PC to TV.

http://www.quantelectronic.de/Monitore/CRT-Bildschirm/CRT-ab-21/22-CRT-Monitor-IBM-C220P-Flat-Trinitron-2048x1536-i60_8373.htm

These high-end PC monitors from the late CRT years mounted Trinitron/Trinitron-based tubes. I have a couple (Compaq and Dell?, if I recall) and they’re quality.

You don’t need a converter at all for 31-kHz-capable machines 'cept for the Wii, and indeed you WANT to use VGA/31kHz RGB cables with this monitor, though the PS3 will use an YPbPr cable as an RGB one if it works like the PS2, which I think it does; you’ll only need an adaptor there. For the Wii, look it up, since there may be a way to get RGB out of it these days, if you have it soft-modded. And you don’t want to convert YPbPr into RGBHV, but transcode it.

I know; too many concepts for one day, but make some research on analog signals and nomenclature and you’ll find out it’s easy. Wikipedia wasn’t too bad on this, if I recall.

I guess I would just have to play and find out. I would be fine with 480p and your interlace.cp shader if the configuration would work.

I’m using an ultrawide res setup. Is it normal if most of the background in the first screenshot and the sky in the second one are invisible? Lowering the contrast brightens black colors too much IMO.

I would recommend finding some test card images and load them up in RetroArch and then play with your monitor’s brightness/contrast settings until you get something that’s properly dark but not losing detail.

The problem is that they’re already maxed out. Is there any shader for increasing color intensity? image-adjustment.glsl’s R/G/B Channel options hardly help in the first case.

EDIT: Sorry if I’m being dumb here and this is just a hardware limitation.

You shouldn’t just max both, that will do exactly what you’re describing :stuck_out_tongue:

You want your contrast and your brightness both somewhere near the middle, where blacks are black, whites are white and there are many gray steps between. When contrast is maxed, things are either flared out or black-crushed.