I worked on the misc slang.p shader Which is not guest, and which is not crt royale… So? Not the right mask, then? To be redone with guest rev2… But my genesis preset has been posted above… I have 4 different gamma settings, brightness, + rgb sca nline etc… And triads on top of the mask…that’s what makes the alladin screen smooth on the screen3 (slot mask) I was able to match the gamma gamut, luminosity of my crt on oled with bfi… Screen 2 guest adv rev2 ( aperture grill) difference? Case decale for slot otherwise? My preset looks like my crt in color gamma etc… What’s different about my preset? It’s not dark and clogged image… Example bonk pcengine… My custom preset…
These 2 might be particularly easy to explain if you wanted to know. Feel free to ask.
Unfortunately, I can’t seem to view this screenshot properly. The scanlines/mask appear uneven, I’m seeing some light vertical lines every few pixels, probably due to scaling/compression. I’m sure they look correct on your TV or in full quality. I tried both on my phone and on my TV. Can you upload either a higher resolution or different resolution one that works if you want me to see? I can’t speak for others because I know that even my screenshots look very different depending on the resolution of the screen they are being viewed on. 4K looks proper, 1080p looks okay too but on a 1440p there are strange artifacts.
This is what Bonk’s Revenge looks like with my CyberLab Mega Bezel Death To Pixels (Composite - Sharp) preset:
No comppression here png vs jpeg… https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNErXm9_J6hZwcaY-5G-InWeVcLQRiwsZVzSCAP
I’m getting a 404 error with this link.
The slideshow mode works in full screen on oled.
or alundra in video. So? Allundra like never seen as my preset except on crt… I recognize the shader in allundra, it’s always dark and far from the reality of a crt.
Do you see the difference? On your bonk screen, with the package on the table…there is a P… It’s light green…not dark that way…but don’t worry, I’ve been seeing this in emulation with shader for 10 years…because they have no reference… My preset has a long work behind and 250 games tested, it’s not just values like that… No you can change games and still have all the light details contrast and saturation right… This is what my preset… brings and I take into account the bfi which eats 40℅ of brightness… What is left to your bonk screen with the bfi… Since I already find it dark without? Here you go my friend…
And the same for final fantasy7… Sitting on my sofa on the oled I see no difference with my crt. Except the little story of the slot mask used instead of the aperture… But it’s hard to see that at 1m so at 3 meters or more… Final fantasy 7 on beetle in reso x1 no improvement… So let’s be honest where are the presets that look like what you saw on my preset? In brightness? Contrast? Detail? Sharpness and gamma? I’ve tested a lot of shaders in 10 years… And if today I decide to do it, it’s because it starts to weigh me down… If people believe that crt are blurred, dark and clogged with remanence in any situation? What shaders imitate in general are malfunctions of a crt. But my crt is fine and in perfect condition… And that’s what I want on my oled…not a dark blurry mess etc… I’m not talking about your preset although a little dark it’s not the worst… But I see immediately that it is a shader… or a low light crt? 5 out of 100? See you soon, thank you cyber (new subscriber), thank you. We’ll stay in touch to make things go in the right direction ok? At over 8:00 am I haven’t slept…so this time I’ll sleep over.
These work and look great. The only thing that looked strange to me was the fine white text on the black background at the Playstation Logo screen and the Title screen. The grid looks a bit too strong and thick kinda lowering the resolution of the text.
My presets are originally based on the Newpixie-Clone_Smoothed_Rolling-Scanlines__STD__GDV preset. I didn’t interfere with the brightness because I didn’t want to do anything that might have caused clipping and it seemed bright enough for me. None of my TVs have bfi. If I want a brighter image I can just turn up the brightness on my TV it all depends on what time I’m playing and if the room is dark or not. I also tested them on my LCD and the brightness seemed fine to me.
As time goes on these things can be tweaked and improved upon but for now I think I’ve achieved my main goal with these 2 presets - which was to find a modern slang preset which can replace the Death to Pixels.cg preset that I loved and used to use before. That preset used the Analog Shader Pack 3.0.
My main reference is my memory and what looks right or good to me. Remember some people originally played their games on many different sets, calibrated in many different ways. So how someone adjusts these settings can be very subjective if they are trying to recreate what looks and feels right to them based on their memories.
You can easily tweak the brightness or any other aspect of these shaders and get them, the way you prefer. They’re full of things to adjust and interfere with. In order to reach this point, I spent several nights and hours adjusting and the next day, feeling like, nah, something is very wrong here or bothering me, then repeating the process until I found something I liked. Then after an update things got different so I had to go back and tweak some more. So for now I like what I have. I’m going to use them like this for a while unless or until I feel like interfering again.
It’s been a pleasure. Get some rest.
And you don’t have the right aspect ratio… The windows of the boat are round on my sony kv crt and in my oled preset… Just a detail … Thanks… I can’t rely on memories from more than 20 years ago… While those who propose presets don’t have a crt now… And if I ask them what they ate on Monday at noon last week? 99% of humans will not know how to answer …but they will want to put their hand on fire that their crt was dark blur? Etc? Blah, blah, blah… Don’t rely on memories… Especially not for the case of shaders… The crt was caliber more or less…I can take 1000 new sony crt…not one will be as dark… Only the geometry and overscan can vary a little…but not to the point for example to make oval ship windows instead of round… And if you have a crt phillips? bonk also looks like my preset… Except that the sony blue is deeper and more beautiful… My crt phillips I don’t like it too much… Compared to the sony aperture…but it’s still an excellent lens… Good night.
That aspect ratio is what was automatically set by Mega Bezel Reflection Shader.
I certainly don’t believe that CRTs are blurred, dark and clogged with remanence. My Commodore 1702 was as sharp and clean as they came at the time. I do remember, though that as the screen sizes got larger, the images weren’t as sharp and detailed as on my 13" Commodore monitor. So I don’t quite expect the blown up image on a modern 55" TV to be quite as sharp as that of any small CRT computer monitor I’ve used in the past and I expect the scanlines, mask and noise to be a little more visible at larger screen sizes.
My goal was never to simulate any particular CRT 1:1. It was to have something that was CRT-like that made my pixels and colours look nice to me. Part of my tweaking involved adjusting settings to make sure that dither patterns blended into new unique colours and stuff like that. Remember darkness depends a lot on how people have their sets calibrated. Perhaps my backlight and brightness settings are a bit higher than yours or due to my room lighting or just preference, a darker image might be more comfortable to me? If when I tested the shaders out on my LCD I found something to be off, like the brightness, I might have adjusted it but on the LCD the brightness seemed perfect to me and it’s so easy to just adjust the brightness of the set that I haven’t really felt it necessary to work on that, right now or just yet in the preset. I just want to enjoy some games for a while, until something bothers me or an update causes me to have to fix things.
Remember I have 2 presets, Composite - Sharp and Arcade - Sharp. If you wish, although you probably don’t have any need to feel free to tweak some settings on my presets including brightness, gamma, contrast and sharpness. A few changes can go a long way. Remember you can’t properly judge a shader preset by looking at screenshots alone. A wise man once said that.
Thanks again to @guest.r, @HyperspaceMadness, @Duimon, @Nesguy and everyone else who have made this possible especially all the RetroArch devs and contributors!
Thank you @Cyber. I do think I have a basic grasp of what scanlines are - the black lines that go across a screen. I don’t know much more about them than that. And I have seen pictures of people explaining masks but it’s still lost on me. I may make a totally separate thread asking about info on them and other terms though, because I don’t want to derail this thread.
I think someone needs to explain me to me
I have rhetoric?
(I’m not complaining, just generally interested. As Ik I’m pessimistic, have an unneeded amount cynicism. Just wondering lol)
Well to be anal and pedantic, technically scanlines are the actual color lines being displayed, black lines are nothing just space between the lines of the image being drawn.
Right basic idea tho, happy to see people taking a interest to learn.
Masks are honestly a combo of simple and complicated to explain. Simple explanation think of just applying a partial transparent pattern/grid over your picture. (That’s a mask)
Is that a good explanation of what a CRT mask actually is? Absolutely not, but does it get the general ideal to the end user, ye I think so.
Basically just know if your trying to replicate a CRT look, both scanlines and a mask need to be happening tbh. They wildly vary in looks from each other tho, different scanlines and masks on different CRTs.
Have you tried this one? https://github.com/libretro/slang-shaders/blob/master/crt/crt-yo6-KV-M1420B.slangp
Re: scanlines and masks, if you’ve ever played with a lite-brite, it’s kinda like that. Just imagine a lite-brite with a broken backlight: so to see the picture, someone has to get behind it and shine a tiny flashlite at it. However, the flashlight is too small to light up the whole image at once, so they have to move it around and light up each segment of the image one by one.
In this example, the flashlight is like the electron gun, the little colored pieces of plastic that light up are like the mask, and a line of the image as it’s lit up is like a scanline.
Now, the person with the flashlight knows that the faster they move, the easier it’ll be to see the image, so instead of painstakingly hitting every single line of colored plastic nibs, they zip through and skip over a few lines of nibs each time they move across from side to side. You as the viewer can still see the gist of it and your brain fills in the gaps, so no big loss, aside from seeing some black lines in between where the edges of the flashlight beam don’t completely touch/overlap (those are like the black lines that occur between scanlines).
EDIT: if we want to take it a little further, the time it takes to shine the flashlight from one side to the other and then reset their arm back to do the next line is called the “horizontal sync rate”, and on standard-def TVs, that’s 15.7 kHz. Once they’ve shown you the whole image, they need to swap out the image for a new one, and that takes some time, which is known as “vblank”. Once the image is swapped out, they grab the flashlight again and the process begins anew on a new frame.
@Syh and @hunterk, thank you for those, I can get a visualization, and that helps! I enjoy trying to learn almost anything. I am sure there are several more terms and components that go into making the whole image, but those are the two that I usually see the most.
I think the last CRT I ever used was a 20" Sanyo I had back in the late 2000’s (I think you have mentioned the same TV @Syh, and @Nesguy as well). I couldn’t even possibly remember now how many of the games I played on it looked. And I definitely cannot remember the TVs we had back in the early to mid 80’s.
I own one currently lol. (silver body flat glass?)
Honestly I’m better with visual learning myself, so I try to explain things in that manner for others, granted Hunters explanation was better than mine obviously lol.
Ohh also I’m a guy just fyi (I don’t think anyone cares, just cyber brought it up, so thought I’d clarify )
Well, you did ask a rhetorical question.
And I was still trying to understand where @Duimon was coming from with his comment because it flew over my head at the time based on the comment he quoted.
Thanks, I don’t like to start using pronouns unless I’m sure unless the username suggests a particular gender, like @Nesguy or the avatar like @guest.r. I wasn’t sure about @HyperspaceMadness at first due to the use of Samus.
I don’t equate rhetoric with rhetorical questions, personally.
I thought rhetoric was more a way of persuasion? (Usually with negative connotations in my experience)
Whereas a rhetorical question is a question that doesn’t need an answer as it’s already being answered in the asking. (And I was genuinely asking if you knew what a facia was, I wasn’t trying to be rude about it lol)
I mean fair enough with the other points tho lol.
Ye @Duimon explanations are needed I’m smooth brained .
I hope you know that I meant it with great respect my friend. I truly appreciate your singular sense of humor! (The world could use a bit these days.)
“crt-guest-advanced” it’s very versatile and easy to use, and it’s maybe the closest thing to a “community shader” that we have. @guest.r has been really great about responding to user feedback and updating the shader. Also try the NTSC version!
Looks like a pro monitor judging by the pitch of the mask. I think shaders can do a good job of replicating that look.
Yes pronouns are important and important not to assume, I appreciate your care with this. I actually add mine (He/Him) to my profile to make this a bit easier, and possibly help people feel a bit more comfortable So when you hover over the little avatar it says “HyperspaceMadness (He/Him)”
Cheers