OK. I had the file named incorrectly. 
It is fixed.
Keep in mind that I have this GEL layer and a bunch of LCD-GRID Pixel color options tweaked to imitate the Game Boy green screen. I think it looks as good or better than any of Gambatte’s built-in palettes. You may disagree. 
Hello Duimon ,
Is it possible that I use your bezels by adapting them for Batocera ?
Batocera is an open source retrogaming O.S like Retropie.
I thank you in advance, you do a fantastic job.
Welcome to the conversation! 
The Advanced version of this preset has HSV (Hue, Saturation, & Brightness/Value parameters.) for the Bezel Image Layer. In this case the body and buttons of the handheld use this layer. (Some controls and other details use different layers.) This allows you to change the color of the handhelds main body using only shader parameters.
The buttons are also duplicated in gray using the Decal Layer. By default it is hidden, but can be revealed by increasing the opacity using shader parameters. This will let you shade the buttons or turn them completely gray. (Like the buttons in the Standard preset.)
When @HyperspaceMadness included this HSV, we had in mind handhelds that came in different colors but I have used it also on the Advanced version of the SEGA Naomi graphic.
It is one of my favorite features. 
Yes you can, I do them ^^ Batocera dev 31 x64, it works well, I don’t know how it works on an rpi4 or other but on my retrogaming PC with an i7 6700k and a 1080ti no problem ^^ sorry for my english, it’s google translation: p
If you aren’t aware, I release standard Retroarch overlays of most of my graphics. (I use a bezel that is a clone of the shader generated bezel.
I use them on Batocera myself. (On my ODROID XU4) I have a pre-configured decorations theme set up if you would like me to put it in my repo. (They are 1920 x1080 and include 43 systems. The included WonderSwan pair are from my previous raster graphics and will be updated when I add them to this collection.)
In any case, all my graphics are open source. You may use them, and the source, in any way you see fit.
Edit: I have added the decoration theme to my “Misc-Overlays-Borders-Bezels” repo, in a Batocera folder.
I have successfully converted all my presets to eliminate the middle nesting. 
Hopefully @HyperspaceMadness is spending some quality time with his family. He is doing some work on the defaults in the shaders to make changing references as clean as possible. Knowing him, he probably has a few surprises in store for us also.
From my tests, if you are just using my presets you shouldn’t notice any changes. If you have done some customizing, either creating your own or using mine, there is a chance you may have to fix something. 
Here’s a peek at my Ikegami TM20 PVM WIP.
It will never be perfect because of the liberties I took to make it the same size (At least real close. ) as the default generated bezel. On this one I use rack mounts to increase the width. Setup is also a bit more work because the bezel is the same color as the chassis. (I think we can get the same look using multiply blending and some opacity adjustment, I will do some testing. I am using this method on some handhelds.)
Keep in mind that the red color is to enable easier HSV calculation for the Bezel Image Layer.
It is really a shame that we can’t somehow get closer to the panel. There are some really cool details.
Anyways… there is still a lot of work to do. Just thought I’d show what I was working on. I am also spending some time adding the missing Advanced presets.
Mother of God I do not know where we are going to get with so much realism, it looks incredible.
Duimon you do nothing but surpass you, I already run out of praise
Thank you. I think it’s pretty cool too. 
I separated the layers and assembled the Advanced preset. For this shot, I used the HSV parameters to change the chassis color.
As you can see, I have added the logo plate and the tally light. I am toying with changing the rack mount handle and rivets to a lighter metal for some contrast. I have it split, left to right here.
I may have to figure out something with the tally light window, I think it should show up more at night. I also have to create the adjustable drop shadow layer.
I think the solution to my tally light is here.
The LED from my SEGA Master System graphic.
Problem is, it’s been so long I can’t remember how I did it. 
Looks like I’ll be taking a look at my source.
Well… the look into my source was a fun journey, but didn’t solve my problem. (Too many differences in the graphics.)
I did learn from it though and in the end I found something I like.
I am using the Famicom graphic for these shots and have adjusted the Bezel Image Layer HSV accordingly.
I have added the drop shadow using the Top Extra Layer. (Like the PVM20.) I decided to compromise with the rack mounts and keep the rivets dark but lighten up the handles.
I decided against using Multiply and transparency on the bezel, in favor of HSV matching. This way, (With the frame the same color as the chassis and no frame shadow…) the frame outer edge shading looks like an inner shadow, and works perfectly for the graphic.
I decided to do an NES version shot of this to show how using one of the PVMs can add some bling to even the most simple graphics.
I like how the Tally light looks at night but I may do one final edit to the daylight layer and remove some color from the window.
After I get it the way I want it, I will probably use the same Tally light method on all of my PVMs.
This is a crazy sophisticated PVM, maybe @faxesystem can show us a shot of the panel pulled out from the PVM to show the inner controls.
Holy moly!!! This is so awesome! @Duimon that is exactly what I imagined the tally light to look like.
The TM20-17R doesn’t have the pull out panel. What it has is the knobs one can turn come out when being pushed and it makes them active. When they are out the LEDs are turned on. When pushed in the LEDs are off.
When I‘m at my other place where all my other PVM are I can take pictures of them all for your awesome work. I can also ask my CRT buddies from another forum to make some pictures for this project. The will gladly help out and it should cover most of the grail PVM / BVM.
Do you have a Patreon or is there a way to support your work?
These are really looking amazing @Duimon!
Thanks so much @faxesystem! These are such wonderful high res sharp images
@Duimon, what do you think about adding some texture like in these photos?No Patreon. My work is to support the shader, so spread the word. It’s success is my reward.
I enjoyed this graphic so much I may do the TM14-20R down the road since I can reuse so much of my source.
With the rack mounts it is pretty close to a 16:9 ratio so would fill the screen pretty well. Of course, this would be for the stand-alone PVM graphics.
Here’s a shot of what I thought your monitor could do. (For everyone reading.)
This would be the TM20-20R.
If it had texture then I think I should add some.
This texture on the bezel is something that I have just seen on the Ikegami Models. My idea is that this was done to reduce reflections and to reduce eye fatigue for the people using it back in the days. So basically the opposite what the reflection bezel of your project is aiming at. The Sony and JVC PVM are all smooth.
I do like some texture though when I have the chance to use it. In Illustrator, a texture layer using a “Hard Light” blending mode, can produce texture that has directional lighting. I can look really nifty.
That would be awesome! Finding decent sources on the Interwebs is pretty much a roll of the dice and is one of the toughest parts of what I do.
Now that I have two solid PVMs done I am going to do the work of getting a couple sample presets for everyone in the repo and creating the standalone PVM presets and graphics. Then I need to finish adding all the Advanced presets.
Once that is done I really think I need to do the WonderSwan graphic I have been threatening to do. It is starting to think I have forgotten about it. (A whiny console is a tough thing to live with. )
I will resume work on PVMs and Vintage TVs when I feel I need a change of pace.
Here is a shot of some texture on the monitor.
I tried using the Reflection mask but I couldn’t get it to look right. (I probably need to work with that a bit more to figure out a good method.) I achieved similar results using Multiply blending mode on the bezel to let the background texture show through.
As much as I like texture I’m not sure it adds anything to the graphic. It was worth trying though. 
I am going to keep the texture layers in the source but remove them from the output. (Just in case someone down the road wants to add it back in.)
I’m still not 100% happy with the daylight Tally light. I will keep working on it.
