I tried something different.
I put my highlights on the Top Extra Layer so I have some control over them.
I still need to mask out the LED area, but I think it will work. We can also adjust it’s opacity when night mode is on.
It actually looks pretty slick! 
OK… I spent some serious time on this. It may have actually been more difficult than simply darkening the yellow, but in the end it looks correct. There was a lot of strange masking I had to figure out.
It works in Night mode, but since the night mode ignores the Top Layer if it is in Add blending mode, I had to lower the opacity to 3%.
Coloring the device works as expected. I had to mirror the Device HSV parameters to the Top layer.
I think I am happy. 
Hmm, I don’t think that the top layer is ignored if it is in add mode, I think the night lighting is applied to the image which would make the highlight less prominent…
I’m fairly certain that instead of adding an ambient multiplier to the Top Image, you just set it to not apply the night to it when it was in Add mode. (I think so we could use it as another LED layer.)
Here is a shot with the transparency not set.
Totally not affected by the night layer. 
BTW, the Top layer is below the CRT and Glass layer. If you were wondering. 
Hmm, sounds like I should add some parameters here to adjust how much night lighting gets applied…
Something like opacity?
Yeah, basically a 0-100 amount of how much the night lighting the top layer received
I wanted to ask but didn’t want to seem greedy.
And that is how features for Mega Bezel are made.
Here another WIP before I retire for the evening.
BTW. In case you were wondering why this has so much in common with my TI-99_4A graphic…
…Tiger Electronics acquired the toy division of Texas Instruments in 1995. They started producing the Game .com in 1997.
Here’s the latest WIP.
Getting close. I still have to do the stylus.
The bezel will be done in the shader. I am planning on adjusting the reflection falloff/fade. We’ll see how it goes.
Here is a WIP on the stylus.
There is an awful lot going on with this thing. I’m not sure I will ever get it perfect. 
Hopefully, as I add detail, it will become more forgiving.
I see it perfect, it’s getting perfect
Here is the first live shot.
This was truly one of the toughest graphics yet. It surprised me because I thought it would be fairly fast and easy. 
Really? What made it so different and difficult?
The stylus was a battle to figure out, with the multiple layers, highlights, and shading. The speaker holes are of varying sizes and fan out from the left to right, and the d-pad and stylus are both within the lower 20% grayscale… to mention a few.
When you get down to the lower end of grayscale, a lot of the shades fall outside the 8-bit color gamut so 30% become something like 18 levels you actually have to work with. (And the only way to do it is with trail and error.)
I did happen to learn a new trick or two, so that is good.
I may also try adding some texture if I can find some high res photos to be sure… film grain can look like texture.
is perfect!!! amazing work!!!
Here is a look at the layers panel… for just the stylus.
One of the new things I learned was to use an offset solid object, outside of a masked area, and use the drop shadow effect to cast realistic shading and/or highlights on a layer.
It gives a lot of control of lighting direction and blur/transparency.
It will come in handy for future projects.
awesome work again 
every time you make a new one, i realise it’s a system i haven’t set up yet
thanks for the new ones can’t wait to try them out 
