The Casio PV-1000 and the VTech CreatiVision are in the repo. 
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Here’s a fun WIP.
The Nintendo Playstation Prototype!
The idea is to use this for playing SNES MSU-1 games, since it had both a cartridge slot and CD player.
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So cool! I just learned that this thing existed a couple of weeks ago
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I did a quick but deep OCD pass on the The Nintendo Playstation Prototype.
It is in the repo.
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Man it would have been great to play hotel mario on a Nintendo CD system 
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I thought I’d give everyone a windows into my workflow for my next graphic. I am doing the Arduboy for the Arduous core.
Here are some WIP shots, I am working on the PCB trace.
This is going to be some serious fun. 
For those of you who haven’t been here from the beginning, I did the PCB for a transparent GBC cartridge for a LaunchBox project I have in the works.
So I have a little experience. 
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We have a CPU!
That’s about it for the baby step shots. I’ll post another shot when things are a bit further along.
I’m not making any promises but I hope to export the PCB, trace, and buttons as separate layers so we can change the colors.
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whenever i use the n64 shader it is upside down and reversed, help?
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That can happen to varying degrees, depending on which RDP engine you use.
There are a few “Flip & Rotate” parameters in the shader, two for the viewport, two for the core image, and a rotate for the CRT.
They should be self explanatory.
When you have it sorted, you can save a core preset or content directory preset.
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thank you mate, all looks normal now
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Here is a WIP on the Arduboy.
All the silicon and porcelain is done. Next I need to do the other surface mount components.
The complexity of this off the charts!
There are 1659 closed paths, 16 compound paths, and 379 clipping masks.
Crazy! 
(And I’m only half done.)
The completed GBC PCB had only 845 closed paths.
I kept the shot at the export resolution of over 4000 vertical pixels, in case anyone wants to take a closer look.
It’s pretty accurate but I wouldn’t recommend using it in place of a schematic. (I just realized I forgot a little dot on one of the IC chips. I’ll have to fix that. )
Edit: Fixed and updated the shot.
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Has anyone figured out how to get these beautiful shaders configured on a steam deck? Installing RA through EmuDeck blocks out the ability for me to copy the shaders into the proper directory. Thanks!
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You may want to look at this thread and ask @schM0ggi for tips if they didn’t already cover it in the thread.
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Casio PV-1000; quick question… what core to use ? >mame current< presents just a black screen 
thank you !
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MAME current is the correct core. Are you familiar with the standard MAME Software Lists method?
If you post a pre-formatted log we may be able to troubleshoot your issue.
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Thanks for pointing me in the right direction ! Superb work/design as always ! Thank you very much Duimon!
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OK then. The underlying components of the Arduboy are done.
It was quite a battle at times. I had to do surgery on the trace multiple times so it lined up with pins on the components.
I am sure I will have to do more as the shell takes form. (For the screw hole at least. But I am getting rather good at it. 
)
We now have 1899 closed paths and 428 clipping masks.
Time for the next layer of coolness.
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Here is where I am at with the Arduboy.
I think it is in a good place. Here is a reminder shot for comparison.
There was way too much direct lighting on my source. For the shell and buttons I used this reference shot.
Here is a shot of the transparent shell layer.
A transparent shell is much easier than a translucent one.
(Not that this was in any way easy. )
For those who are interested, this now has 2015 closed paths and 448 clipping masks.<— 
I’ll start exporting separate layers and see how it goes building a preset.
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While I was doing a final OCD pass I noticed that the more solid parts of the shell cast a shadow.
Keeping in mind my front/top down standard lighting style… I added them.
A couple more clipping masks, and my customary 1px final Gaussian blur and here we go.
I’m hoping I can keep the trace and raw PCB as a single combined layer. The green and gold should be close enough on the color wheel that a hue adjustment will look good. If that is the case I can guarantee a decent amount of control for changing the colors in the shader. If that is not the case (And we need separate layers.) we may lose a bit of control over other layer colors.
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