Here is a WIP on the Sampo 9519.
Things are coming along quite well. (The background is only a placeholder until I decide on a final.)
While I was creating the little release for the panel over the channel buttons, (To reveal fine tuning controls.) I realized I had forgotten to add a similar release to the TH18-C17.
I will add one soon.
Doing a good job on the graphic as always. Can’t wait to see the tubes added. 
Another spectacular job. I was watching the details, impressive. Congratulations 
Hogda also does an amazing job with the overlays and his mastery of the presets. I downloaded your latest Pack and what an amazing job.
A last WIP for the night.
Keep in mind that for a lot of things, all I can do is make a good guess. Many of the source shots are of broken and damaged TVs. 
Here is the first step in creating screens.
I had to go into the source and change some things to get the screen to fit properly. I tried to find a compromise between the old and the new. (Happens every time at this stage.)
Next I have to load a dual screen game to get a bezel on the top of the two smaller screens. I have yet to commit to trying to get the smaller bezels to match the real thing. (It would mean creating the bezels manually and using a reflection mask.)
In any case I will have to manually create some bezel, so there is something around the screen that isn’t being used.
After all that is good, I need to create some Photoshop templates that can be used to place artwork in the spare screen. (Even if it is just the blank tube.)
I will do my best to create a reflection for box art etc.
Sooo…I still have a lot of tedious work to do, but it is looking good. 
Really good progress on this m8!! 
Here’s where we are now.
I am using a lighter Phosphor because the real TV has one, but I don’t like how it plays.
I will be switching to my normal phosphor going forward.
BTW. I decided that since I needed to capture the blank screen anyway, that I would forego creating any bezel from scratch and just use a captured image.
Maybe an application for Visual Pinball? One screen for the playfield, one for backglass and one for DMD? Would be kind of weird but interesting.
Here is my first try at box art.
The reflections are the same smart object as the content, so when you replace the main content, the reflections will also change.
As long as the source is all the same size and DPI, I have a script that can automatically render from a collection of images. Then we can use wildcards to place them all.
How does everyone feel about using the color output on what is in reality B&W small screens?
My main instinct would be to use color for the monitors but part of me wants it to be B&W. Using the extra monitor/s for images is a good idea. 
just : wawooooooooooo 
Wow, that’s looking really good!
Eventually I’m going to add support for a 3rd screen and allow the user to use images or sprite sheets for the 2nd and 3rd tubes. With this and P3st’s examples perhaps this should be sooner rather than later.
That would sure make things easier. How about a way to use both the second and third screen for images?
Edit: Missed the part about 2nd and 3rd screens. 
A cool effect might be for the 2nd and 3rd screens to display snow/static if the set is turned on but they have no signal.
Yeah that would be what I would try to do
Yeah this could be a good idea, I think for each tube other than the first could have a parameter to choose what it should show, 2nd core slice (as it does now), Still Image, Sprite Sheet, Snow.
And these would all go through the crt shader and have a reflective bezel
3 screens would create a lot of possibilities, which I have one in mind.
If you follow both my thread and HSM’s, you may know that the initial motivation for doing the Sampo 9519 Triscreen was for the MojoZork core. (Infocom Z-Machine)
Here is a sample.
I am going to update the content of the small screens, but you get the idea.
I will probably add this into the main pack for the MojoZork core.
That’s cool!
I went looking for decent source but came up with nothing that would let me read the Kanji. I will keep looking.
Interestingly, while I was looking I found these new images.
The last clearly shows that my TH18-C17 is actually the TH20-B8. 
I have no idea where I found the model number I used… it has been sitting in a folder for a couple of years. It’s possible there was both an 18" and a 20" with different model numbers.
In any case, the new pics show some fine details that will improve the graphic, and let me double check the Kanji one last time.
Pretty exciting stuff!
