Using a CRT monitor with Retroarch

If your DVD recorder includes a scan converter, it can work, yeah. If you already have it working with a 31 khz monitor, there’s no reason it wouldn’t work with this one, as well.

@Milsancho RA does indeed support Black Frame Insertion (BFI). It’s in settings > video.

Actually I thought RA was only on PS3. And I felit like being a puritan…But the very day I ordered it, I found Retroarch on PC!

[QUOTE=hunterk;47209]If your DVD recorder includes a scan converter, it can work, yeah. If you already have it working with a 31 khz monitor, there’s no reason it wouldn’t work with this one, as well.

@Milsancho RA does indeed support Black Frame Insertion (BFI). It’s in settings > video.[/QUOTE]

Yes it works on my LCD Monitor.

Actually I am now having another choice…

There’s a guy selling an OLD Panasonic 21" CRT TV with S-video, Component, composite inputs and etc… I am tempted to buy that instead of this IBM monitor. both priced exact same…

It depends on what you’re wanting to do with it. If you want to run RA through it, you’re better off with the PC monitor. If you just want to use your Retro Trio, the TV is a better option.

While you can force a PC (and consequently, RA) through a regular TV, it’s a serious hassle. Since that TV has component inputs, you could get a VGA to component transcoder for ~$50 but I generally recommend people use the Wii port (or PS3 if you have one already) of RA in that case because it’s simpler than trying to get a PC down to 15 khz.

[QUOTE=hunterk;47227]It depends on what you’re wanting to do with it. If you want to run RA through it, you’re better off with the PC monitor. If you just want to use your Retro Trio, the TV is a better option.

While you can force a PC (and consequently, RA) through a regular TV, it’s a serious hassle. Since that TV has component inputs, you could get a VGA to component transcoder for ~$50 but I generally recommend people use the Wii port (or PS3 if you have one already) of RA in that case because it’s simpler than trying to get a PC down to 15 khz.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for clarifying some of my doubts. I do have a PS3 with Retroarch setup. And also have a softmodded Wii & have original XBOX with Coinops 8 Massive and I JUST found that it has a Retroarch too!! So I think I might go with TV considering both are about same size. I will miss out on awesome high hz for PC games though…dillemma… XD

They also simply look very different. 31 khz monitors have very obvious, defined scanlines, and the gaps between them are inky black, while a 15 khz TV barely shows them, even with high-quality connections, such as component.

Some people don’t like the 31 khz look, others think 15 khz looks too muddy. It’s up to personal preference. I like them both. /shrug

One thing to keep in mind is that component (YPbPr) is not RGB. Picture quality, and specially color fidelity, is lower than with the latter. So while you have on the one hand one of the best monitors ever made for 31 kHz attending to pic quality and size (call it a premium, uncommon option), on the other you’re been offered a run-of-the-mill TV set which most people are getting for free, specially with that size.

If you’re really interested in playing old games in the best conditions you’ll end up getting a 15-kHz TV/monitor with RGB input when you get more educated on the subject, and that one actually won’t replace the 31kHz PC monitor, but will go together with it, since you’ll have more systems (real or emulated) and realize that both are necessary and totally different.

^ In case I didn’t make myself clear enough, go get the 22’’ PC CRT and don’t even think about it. If you’re only used to flat monitors, you’ll be amazed by how your XBox (and even your PS3, since that monitor should have a Trinitron tube and therefore support sync-on-green) are displayed against the LCD or whatever shit you’ve been using up until now. And as a bonus, you’ll get decent quality (some will say even “superb quality”) for 15kHz games with PC emulators until that moment you can get an RGB 15kHz set.

Thanks for “clearing up”.I don’t think I will ever get an RGB set. I am only taking these because they’re sold REAL cheap… Now I feel like taking them both, …though I don’t really have space for either.

Its an IBM Monitor, how will it have Trinitron tube? If I get the monitor, I will need to get a Component to VGA Converter right? I have a VGA to Component (or vice versa, not sure) cable. which doesn’t work with PC to TV.

http://www.quantelectronic.de/Monitore/CRT-Bildschirm/CRT-ab-21/22-CRT-Monitor-IBM-C220P-Flat-Trinitron-2048x1536-i60_8373.htm

These high-end PC monitors from the late CRT years mounted Trinitron/Trinitron-based tubes. I have a couple (Compaq and Dell?, if I recall) and they’re quality.

You don’t need a converter at all for 31-kHz-capable machines 'cept for the Wii, and indeed you WANT to use VGA/31kHz RGB cables with this monitor, though the PS3 will use an YPbPr cable as an RGB one if it works like the PS2, which I think it does; you’ll only need an adaptor there. For the Wii, look it up, since there may be a way to get RGB out of it these days, if you have it soft-modded. And you don’t want to convert YPbPr into RGBHV, but transcode it.

I know; too many concepts for one day, but make some research on analog signals and nomenclature and you’ll find out it’s easy. Wikipedia wasn’t too bad on this, if I recall.

I guess I would just have to play and find out. I would be fine with 480p and your interlace.cp shader if the configuration would work.

I’m using an ultrawide res setup. Is it normal if most of the background in the first screenshot and the sky in the second one are invisible? Lowering the contrast brightens black colors too much IMO.

I would recommend finding some test card images and load them up in RetroArch and then play with your monitor’s brightness/contrast settings until you get something that’s properly dark but not losing detail.

The problem is that they’re already maxed out. Is there any shader for increasing color intensity? image-adjustment.glsl’s R/G/B Channel options hardly help in the first case.

EDIT: Sorry if I’m being dumb here and this is just a hardware limitation.

You shouldn’t just max both, that will do exactly what you’re describing :stuck_out_tongue:

You want your contrast and your brightness both somewhere near the middle, where blacks are black, whites are white and there are many gray steps between. When contrast is maxed, things are either flared out or black-crushed.

That might be because my monitor seems to be a bit too dim to display artificial scanlines, but I can’t see that background at any combination.

If you disable the scanlines, are you able to do it?

Try downloading these images and loading them in RetroArch and then trying to calibrate:

Goddammit. That was simply because I enabled TV color levels. Nevermind, thanks a lot for the help.

np! I’m glad it was something simple and not a hardware problem.

I am using an M781mm CRT ( I also have an E771p and a couple of E772p lying around if they suite the purpose better somehow) and I’m interested in going the 240p route as OP claimed to have done successfully earlier in this thread. I just can’t figure our how to force a 3840x240@120 output. Like OP my card (ATI r7 2xx) states a maximum refresh rate of 85Hz. Can anyone tell me how it’s done? :smiley:

In Windows, people usually use crt-emu-driver to create custom modelines. In linux, you can use an online modeline calculator and then pass the resulting modeline to xrandr.

I much prefer the linux route.