If your monitor support HDR then activate that in Retroarch.
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I am using phone, is there shader fix that?
Swipe your brightness slider to the right.
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Hahahahaha
Não aguentei a risada 
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Unfortunately, this drains the battery and eye strain
Use a faster / lighter crt shader (for battery life) which usually come with a decent ammount of mask mitigation, in other words, masks, which usually lower overall brightness, are less strongly applied.
Most shaders also come with brightness adjusting parameters, but this can’t overcome the actual screen brightness settings.
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Cyber’s advice was not a joke.
If the screen is dark, what eye strain would you get by making it bright till natural by pushing your phone’s brightness?
Also, probably your display is an (am)oled; this means that the power consumption does depend on the real light emitted, not by the brightness slider.
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Thank you for Reply I am understanding now
I know Cyber don’t mean a joke Thank you for information I meant that when I turn on the CRT shader, the image darkens about 40 percent. I just wanted to compensate for this percentage with a shader like bright boost dark boost etc.
Sorry for my bad English
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Why?
You’re gonna sacrifice quality by that way, that’s why the preferred method on oled like screens is to push their brightness, I repeat: no added power consmption compared to the method of using the shader knobs.
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Thanks, This is new info for me ,so i will swipe bright slider to right. I love libretro community
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Other than doing this, you can use things like Bright Boost, Gamma Correction, adjusting Gamma In/Out, Post CRT Brightness, Bloom, Halation, Mask Strength, Glow however, most of these partners lower the accuracy and intensity of the CRT Mask and can lead to clipping of highlights if abused.
You can also use thicker or less opaque scanlines. This also has side effects.
What @kokoko3k said is true, in that you’re probably going to have a similar power usage increase by increasing those settings as opposed to just increasing the brightness of your screen if you’re using an AMOLED display.
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Have you tried crt-hyllian? That one barely drops brightness compared to no shader.
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Thank you I will try it
THANKS You are welcome Glow is look good for me My preset ntsc mini, simple color controls, glow. lottes mini has mask like my crt tv
I always learn a lot of things everyday on this forum
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Even if you use a shader that doesn’t “drop brightness”, the effect on power consumption is going to be similar or the same as moving the brightness slider to the right.
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Well, I figured it was worth recommending since hyllian’s light scanlines and aperture mask that it uses by default result in a bright image without having to crank brightness to compensate. hyllian’s shaders are also pretty lightweight performance wise.
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You’re not understanding. On an AMOLED screen white is white, bright is bright is bright and dark is dark. Dark uses less power, white and bright use more power regardless if this is achieved through brightening the screen by sliding the brightness control to the right or via the shader through accuracy compromises like “fake bloom” and other stuff which adds white or activates extra subpixels on the display or decreases the saturation of the emulated phosphors or opacity of the scanline gaps.
In an “accurate” shader preset, the gaps between scanlines would generally be off as they’re intended to simulate the areas on a CRT where the beam does not hit and energize the phosphors, on a less “accurate” preset the spaces that are supposed to be black might actually be a darker darker version of the colour of the raw pixels which would be displayed if no shader was used.
The latter might have a brighter image out of the box if the display isn’t configured for “display powered” presets but if it is then the net effect might be that both approaches might be consuming the same amount of power from the display.
“Display powered” shaders like Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor are inherently extremely lightweight because they don’t use the GPU for all of those brightness and other enhancements.
Less GPU usage means less power consumption and longer battery life, not so?
Take a look at some photos of Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor to see what would be sacrificed by going with other methods. This is all subjective as to what everyone prefers though. Some like their CRT Shader presets to look good from a distance while others like them to look good all thr way up to the screen when they put their nose up to the screen.
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I did mess with the Megatron shaders with HDR enabled on my LG C2 once, but it still looked way too dark even though I have the OLED brightness at 100 for HDR. I always end up preferring a lighter scanline effect when I feel like using a CRT shader, so stuff like hyllian or easymode-halation. I didn’t know that Megatron was lightweight enough for Android portables though, that’s neat. I thought it was more heavy on resources like Royal.
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It took me years before I got Megatron to work well on my LG OLED E6P, apparently there were some bugs to be fixed and other improvements needed to be added for it to work well with LG WOLED Displays.
You should probably give it another try using my preset packs. One thing that helped is ignoring how other users were setting their Paper White Luminance and setting it as high as the Peak Luminance.
With that shader you really need to use your eyes.
I game exclusively in Game mode on my TV, however, Game mode is far dimmer than HDR Bright mode on my TV so I have to compensate for that by boosting the Paper White Luminance.
Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor should be the brightest shader you’ve ever used if setup correctly. Brightness between the scanlines can be adjusted by tweaking the scanline dynamics to make the gaps thinner and the scanlines thicker. This would also have the effect of brightening the overall image.
The truth is, almost any Shader in RetroArch can benefit from the Global HDR implementation in Settings–»Video–»HDR . So it was never really exclusive to Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor.