Thanks for the detailed information @darkand. I just searched for your TV on RTINGS. Did you did you do that most important first step after installing Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor? It appears that you might have missed most of the setup instructions after the installation instructions for both CyberLab Megatron NX Death To Pixels 4K HDR Shader Preset Pack as well as Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor and those are very important steps to follow.
This is what RTINGS is saying about the Peak Brightness of your TV:
Hallway Lights (~1950 cd/m²)
776 cd/m
Peak 2% Window
806 cd/m²
Peak 10% Window
808 cd/m²
Sustained 2% Window
786 cd/m²
Sustained 10% Window
780 cd/m²
I would probably go with a Peak Brightness of around 776 if I were you.
I noticed a slight sepia tone and an extreme richness and saturation of the RGB phosphors in your photos. This is an indication that your Paper White Luminance setting is too low.
On my OLED set reds will turn almost burnt orange then brownish as you turn down Paper White Luminance, while they will get even closer to red as you turn that value up.
Another thing I noticed is that many of the Green “Phosphors” have some Yellow in them. I’m not sure where that is coming from, it could be the Dynamic Tonemapping but the “phosphors” should be purely Red, Blue and Green.
The LG C3 is dimmer in Game Mode than in other picture modes, and it’s noticeable if you swap between Game Mode and other modes. Still, it’s bright enough for a pleasant HDR gaming experience, and it’s an improvement over the LG C2 OLED. For a much better Game Mode performance, see the Samsung S89C OLED.
These measurements are after calibrating the HDR white point with the following settings:
- HDR Picture Mode: Game Optimizer (User Settings)
- OLED Pixel Brightness: 100
- Dynamic Tone Mapping: HGiG
- Expression Enhancer: Off
- Peak Brightness: High
I’d also give their settings a try and compare how things look both with and without Dynamic Tone Mapping set to On.
After you get that right, if you want to fine tune the Brightness, you can adjust the Gamma in Shader Parameters near the bottom. If you wash things out or if your colours are too dark after that, you can then adjust the Saturation.
When setting the Paper White Luminance, you can use the Gray Ramp and Colour Bars tests (from SNES 240p Test Suite) to help you know where to stop. Too much and things get a burnt, unnatural, clipped look, while too little and your reds especially will look brownish/rusty.
Lastly, for this session, do adjust your User Interface settings so that the Menu Opacity is set to 0 so that you can see your adjustments take effect in real-time.
I think you’re actually very close to getting things to look right but you clearly didn’t read (or understand) the manual.
That’s okay, as it took me years before I was actually able to use Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor properly. Do ensure that you’re using the recommended version of CRT-Guest-Advanced for my presets and make sure you’re on the latest Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor.
I’m looking forward to seeing at least improved photos after you read that RTINGS article and apply the correct settings for your screen.
There are other exciting things you can do afterwards once you get the basics correct. For example trying some of @Dennis1’s presets and methods.
Go try my new pack as it has both SDR and HDR presets. I have never seen the SDR ones on an OLED TV so you can be my guinea pig.
Do note that there are apps which can allow you to take further control of your TV and adjust ABL and other settings which are not normally accessible to the end user.
