Thanks again! Man, that’s a lot of information, and you put some new perspectives and variables on the table…
This is certanly a fascinating matter, and a rabit hole as well As my main focus is on playing the games, I will try to summarize all the topics here and clear all the points, and maybe contribute in some way
First things first - my TV settings (LG C3 OLED 42"):
Game Optimizer Mode (PC input)
120 Hz refresh rate
Color temperature: Warm 50
Gamma BT.1886
All “image-treatment” features set to OFF
Regarding the lack of saturation, I really don’t have that problem. Both PC games and Retroarch are shown on full color-popping bright glory. Maybe is just the contrary - I have TOO much saturation. But that’s a subject for another time - the point is - saturation and brightness are not issues.
As for my presets parameters, I use:
HDR: Display’s Peak Brightness: 730 (to match my 729 on the C3)
HDR: Display’s Paper White Luminance: 250 (or even 150) - looks right to me, nothing scientific at all, just my eyes
HDR: Original/Vivid: Vivid (default)
Display’s Resolution: 8K (Default)
Display’s Subpixel Layout: RWGB (OLED) (I don’t really know my display layout, but as most of the OLEDs are RWGB, I stick to this one)
Mask Accurate/Colour Accurate: Colour Accurate (nothing scientific here, I just liked it more)
Screen type: SLOT MASK (default)
And Default for all the other settings (I try not to became Alice on this rabbit hole)
Following your tips, trying some of the the “Near Field” and “MiniLED” presets really did the trick. I’ve been trying to stick to the “default” options like the “CyberLab Megatron 4K HDR Game Arcade.slangp” and “CyberLab Megatron NX 4K HDR Game Arcade Slot Mask.slangp”, but, for instance, the “CyberLab Megatron NX 4K HDR Game Arcade Slot Mask Ultra Smooth Near Field” preset and one of the MiniLED options were very close to the results I had with the “Neo GX” presets - with the advantage of the brighter and colorful images of the HDR presets.
However, in that case, I have a few questions if you could kindly help.
What’s exactly the, shall we say, “alternative options” like “Ultra”, “Nier Field”, “Smooth”, “Mega” etc. really does?
What’s the features and/or modifications they try to emulate?
Is there a glossary about them?
As I said before, I tried to stick to the more regular ones, but with your suggestions now I have my doubts on what I want to use.
By the way:
Yes I did, but the results were similar to the Neo-GX (which is good, of course)
Besides that, I would like to question some things (I swear I tried to search over your main post on Libreto, but didn’t find the answers):
Is there any difference on using a 4K or 8K setting on the NX presets on a 4k display? I noticed the default is 8K.
What’s the main difference or goal of the Megatron Death To Pixels 4K HDR, Megatron NX Death To Pixels 4K HDR, NX W420M, MiniLed preset packs?
What’s the difference between the MBZ_0_Smooth and MBZ_1_Advance presets?
What’s the PRACTICAL difference between the Mask Accurate and Colour Accurate options? Well, its clear what it IS, but what it DOES?
I’m trully sorry if my questions are stupid or too newbie. I’m just interested in having the most impressive and fun experience I can - making the most of your material and hard work.
And man, thanks again for your hard work. You have changed the way I (and many others) play retro games, and I believe there’s no better compliment than that. I’m sure words won’t do justice.
This should be set to Mask Accurate for WOLED TVs like yours or you’ll have additional subpixels being turned on besides the RGB that we’re trying to simulate like on a real CRT.
This setting solved a big problem back in the day when we were trying to get Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor looking accurate on WOLED TVs.
All LG 4K OLED TVs use this layout. As a matter of fact, this was added specifically to this shader in order to be able to support WOLED displays down to the subpixel level.
Previously, it was believed that WOLED TVs were not really that well suited for accurate CRT emulation. It’s interesting how the tables have turned. I was one of the chief advocates for further development on CRT Masks for WOLED TVs, now the internet thinks that they need to get a WOLED TV to get the best CRT Emulation and I’m telling people that that is not necessarily the case.
What’s more important is that you have a bright TV.
Compared to the Subpixel Layouts available on regular IPS and VA TVs, WOLED TVs are very limited in terms of what CRT Shader subpixel masks they can emulate properly.
No one seems to have broken down exactly why certain subpixel layouts work and others don’t. It all seems to have happened a bit by accident. If folks delved a bit deeper, then possibly more WOLED subpixel masks could be developed to cover more CRT Phosphor Mask layouts.
For example, right now no solutions seem to work well for folks with 1440p WOLED displays.
One thing to note though is that these subpixel and phosphor level stuff are only visible if you put your nose up to the screen. From distance, any mask layout might look good on a WOLED TV but that’s not what we’re here for, at least not me. I like to awaken the nostalgia down to the subpixel and RGB phosphors.
If you see “Ultra” or “Mega” it’s because I probably had a preset that I liked then I went and changed stuff in it and I liked the result but I didn’t want to call it version II or 2 or B so I chose more fun and exciting nomenclature to differentiate between the various variations.
They’re intentionally supposed to be a bit “over the top” sounding.
On the other hand “Near Field” and “Smooth” actually mean something. Previously the vast majority of my presets were designed for far viewing distances of a large screen TV. This has its own implications as in order to “see” the CRT effects, it has to be “exaggerated” a bit. Then from a distance, things start to get a little blurry so the sharpening helps to keep things in focus, also, believe it or not brightness and saturation also tends to be attenuated a bit the further away you go. This as well is compensated for in most of my presets.
However, what’s good for distant viewing on a large screen, may not be ideal for close viewing on a smaller screen, thus presets like me “Le’Sarsh_4K_Optimized” presets for my Mega Bezel presets pack then “Fine” presets for my subsequent preset packs were explored.
After changing my seating and viewing arrangements, I had to adjust the presets I used once more and that is how my “Near Field” presets came about.
There aren’t any “more regular” ones. They’re just all a collection of presets. You can think of them as virtual CRTs each with its own character.
You can use whichever ones you like. If you like too many to choose, then that’s a good problem to have. Then it becomes kind of a game to choose which preset you want to use and settle down with.
Trust me, it even happens to me sometimes.
The first post of this thread is mostly full so that’s why you won’t really see much new chit chat in that post.
Also, you might find some of the answers you’re looking for in the respective threads and readme files of the shaders themselves.
I wouldn’t have changed it to 8K if there wasn’t a difference. All of this can be researched in the Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor thread.
The technical difference is better spacing and alignment between the Scanlines and Phosphor Mask, leading to less moiré, uneven scanlines and other artifacts and different slot mask dimensions.
They might be from different eras, target different CRT Phosphor Mask Types after finally figuring out how to make them look decent in Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor. They might be designed on a different Display and therefore the default calibration might work and look better on similar displays to what they were designed on.
If you take a browse through this thread, you’ll see many more tidbits of information about these things, especially when I just release a new preset pack.
The technical answer to this lies in the Mega Bezel Reflection Shader GitHub and readme.md.
They MBZ__0 is the most feature rich and performance intensive shader tier and as a consequence has the highest system performance requirements.
The MBZ__1 uses a different shader pipeline and is supposed to have lower performance requirements.
I’ve previous mentioned it. When I get s chance I might share a link to the discussion where it becomes introduced so that you can see why.
It’s okay, I don’t mind that you’re interested in understanding and getting to know how to get the most of these things. This is what I would like all users to do.
You’re welcome.
Well, I’ve changed the way I play retro games as well.
Only one point was not clear to me. The presets that only have the “Smooth” on the name (without “Nier Field”) are also aimed for close distances and smaller displays?
Or only the ones with “Nier Field” are dedicated to that?
Ah, I knew I was forgetting something. I explained “Near Field” but I forgot to explain what “Smooth” was about.
“Smooth” generally means that there is some sort of anti-aliasing/edge smoothing shader employed.
I don’t think my Neo-GX or CRT-Royale Presets have the word “Smooth” in their filenames though because it’s sort of the default and baseline with “Sharp”, (which means no smoothing shader) being the exception.
I don’t like how NES and line-art SNES games like Super Mario World, Super Mario All Stars, Mario Kart e.t c. look with edge smoothing so presets designed for those would have “Sharp” in the title (or just “NES”) or “NES_N64”.
None of my presets are geared toward users with smaller displays but all might look better on smaller displays.
The “Near Field” differentiator/indicator only debuted because of the vast discrepancy between how things looked with my mainly HDR presets (which were designed from afar) when I started sitting a little closer.
I’m not sure if I’m going to be making anymore specific “Near Field” presets because now that I sit closer and because I’m aware of the phenomenon of how viewing distance affects preset quality my presets would no longer be optimized for the far viewing distances which I previously used.
These days most if not all of my presets look even better when you go closer to the screen. It’s not only about the presets, it’s about the Saturation and “pop”. Some of that is lost when you go further and further away.
So don’t get too caught up in the semantics of things as they’re just my personal notes and guides to help know a little about the presets before I load them.
Ultimately, you should try all of them and see which you like best and you can adjust a few settings yourself if you wish to tweak the Saturation and sharpness/harshness of edges.
If using the miniLED presets, remember to adjust the “Display’s Subpixel Layout” to RWBG (OLED) - 1 and try setting the “Mask Accurate/Colour Accurate” setting to “Mask Accurate” (unless it looks like crap because I haven’t tested those particular ones with an OLED TV).
I’’ try to summaryze all the things and you tell me if I got it right
All “Neo GX” and “CRT-Royale” presets have some sort of anti-aliasing/edge smoothing shader employed by default, with the exception being the ones with “Sharp” in the name (these don’t have AA/edge smoothing);
The presets with “NES” or “NES_N64” don’t have any anti-aliasing/edge smoothing either;
If the preset has “Near Field” AND “Smooth” in the name, it has some sort of anti-aliasing/edge smoothing shader employed;
If the preset has “Near Field” but DON’T have “Smooth” in the name, it doesn’t have AA/ES shader employed;
Your future presets problably won’t have the “Near Field” terminology because anyway the presets will look even better when you go closer to the screen, so there’s no point in add this sufix;
Is that it??
By the way - I also don’t like any AA on pure pixel-art games, of any system (NES, SNES, Genesis/Mega Drive, Arcade, 2D PSX and Saturn games etc.). For these, I just want the CRT effect that best simulates the image (as we are used to) on a modern TV.
Last one - after all this discussion, I want to go back to a previous question of mine - you told before that the presets of the folder “MBZ_0_Smooth” are “the most feature rich and performance intensive shader tier and as a consequence has the highest system performance requirements.”
Having “Smooth” in the name, does it mean that they all have some AA/ES effect? Or in this case is it just a name without any meaning?
The way I make my presets you probably wouldn’t have known any of that was employed if I didn’t say anything. It’s very subtle in the systems that I use them on. On NES and SNES line art games, it’s more obvious because of the low resolution those systems use.
I didn’t say “All”, I said, “I don’t think” because I didn’t want to go in front of the computer or download a copy of the preset packs to check and make sure.
You’ve asked quite a number of questions and there’s nothing wrong with that. However trying to break down every single reason why I do things the way I do things is a little counter to the vibe and spirit of my preset packs and the experience. I mean, I don’t have a problem entertaining your curiosity, however, I’d much rather if users used their eyes to make choices. Just go through the presets and see what you like. You don’t have to find the “best one” or “Holy Grail” of preset before you can play.
These are like a collection of virtual CRTs, there’s no best one, they’re just different some slightly, some more so.
There is no correlation between “Near Field” and “Smooth”.
I don’t deal in absolutes. I prefer to be free, abstract, vague, mysterious, to change whenever I feel to, to evolve. That’s why I used the term “generally” as well.
I’m extremely meticulous but I’m also extremely flexible in my approach to things. I frown on over-technicality and like to do things my way.
What you’re seeing here is primarily aimed at my personal use, which I have decided to share with the world.
MBZ__0__SMOOTH and “Smooth” in the filename of a preset are not dependent on one another and are only very loosly correlated.
A preset in the MBZ__0__Smooth folder would have the potential to have Smoothing enabled but it’s not necessarily activated.
This is actually never mentioned in my design goals. I don’t even use a CRT for reference. I just use the tools available to get the games to look as best as I feel they should look.
There are other preset packs which actually focus on trying to mimic and match a particular set.
Any semblance of accuracy you see in my presets is mostly by accident. I won’t say purely because I do take inspiration from different sources. You can’t be exposed to things like the scientific theory and high quality photos of these things and not be influenced in some manner.
Seeing that you are so keen to understand more, I recommend you browse through this thread, pausing at the screenshots and bold text.
You can read up in the Please Show Off What CRT Shaders Can Do, the Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor, CRT-Guest-Advanced and the Mega Bezel Reflection Shader threads as well as the Mega Bezel Readme.md and it’s GitHub Page.
If it’s accuracy that you’re looking for, you can also take a look at these presets and methods of applying CRT-Shaders from @Dennis1.
So please don’t take this to mean I’m annoyed or frustrated by your questions but I really don’t have the time to fully engage in the way that would be required to satisfy your curiosity and that in itself is frustrating.
If you do as I suggested, eventually a lot more would start to make sense as it did for me.
What I do like is to see high quality pics, photos, screenshots and videos of my stuff in action. That’s one way of giving back if you ever wanted to.
I’m truly sorry for any inconvenience I’ve caused. It’s really a fascinating subject and maybe I lost some control of the number of questions. You’ve been truly helpful and kind, and it was a honor to talk about this matter with the creator of this impressive work.
I’m going to make my tests, and will share as you recommended - it’s the least I can do.
It’s no inconvenience or annoyance but it might be worth your while to refer to some of the resources I pointed you towards as well as viewing the several video links in the first post and throughout various posts in the thread. That should keep your appetite for mental stimulation fairly occupied for a while.
By doing this you’ll be introduced to specific presets I might have highlighted as well as combinations which work with certain Custom Blargg Video Filter Presets.
Hi, sorry for the inaccurate question but as a newb, I’m a bit lost.
I own a Android handheld with a decent yet not the best SoC (same Snapdragon as in a Galaxy S20), with a 1080p AMOLED display. I’ve tried Sonkun’s presets but they don’t work as well as on my LCD. I’d like to give Death To Pixels a try but what should I use amond the different options here ? I want to emulate retro Arcade and from NES to Dreamcast, with Megadrive (dithering) in between. And I’m perfectly fine with no Mega Bezel so as to save on processing power.
CyberLab Megatron Death To Pixels 4K HDR Shader Preset Pack
You might have to tweak some settings for example Display’s Resolution, Display’s Subpixel layout, Resolution and Saturation, Gamma and you might have to switch the SDR/HDR toggle to SDR.
I’ll see if I can provide another mobile preset or maybe a pack sometime in the near future.
Thanks a lot for your answer. I’ll get this pack as a starting point.
And it would be very nice to have a pack with OLED 1080p handlheld devices. The processing power lags far behind a desktop but Snapdragon chips don’t totally suck and may handle quite a heavy load. And as far as handleds are concerned, 1080p OLED + SD is no more a high end stuff since Retroid did release their Pocket 5. This setup is now defenitely mid-range and would deserve attention IMO.
You can try this on your mobile. It uses Super-XBR but I’ll see if I can add one which doesn’t include it for even better performance. At smaller display sizes, it isn’t even needed as much.
You need to copy the .slangp file into your RetroArch/Shaders folder. Or /Shaders.
Also, try updating your Slang Shaders using Online Updater.
RetroArch on Android might put the default Shader folder in a non-user accessible folder. If that is the case you can just specify another Shaders folder in a location that you can access and browse, then update your Slang Shaders using the Online Updater so that all of the default shaders are downloaded into the new folder, then copy my above preset into that folder.
I don’t see anything in the paths in the preset that would prevent it from loading and it definitely works on my device.
If you still can’t get it to load, you can try posting a log using pastebin.
Gonna dive into the HDR shaders! Sorry if it’s been asked already, being a noob on those packs and shaders overall I’d like to understand with an LG Oled CX (and a beefy PC) which HDR pack should I use between those below? What’s the difference between them? Are they recommended for Oled displays?
CyberLab Megatron NX Death To Pixels 4K HDR Shader Preset Pack
CyberLab Megatron NX W420M Death To Pixels 4K Shader Preset Pack
CyberLab Megatron miniLED Death To Pixels 4K HDR Shader Preset Pack
Is it accurate that this one is now more legacy than the above?
CyberLab Megatron Death To Pixels 4K HDR Shader Preset Pack
Are the steps in Retrocrisis’ tutorial still accurate for newer HDR packs?
There’s nothing wrong with a refresher for everyone.
I can’t say which you should use as everyone has their preference but due to the fact that RetroArch has HDR integrated into its main UI and engine, I use HDR with virtually all shaders now. Even with my CyberLab Mega Bezel Death To Pixels Shader Preset Pack and my CyberLab CRT-Royale Death To Pixels Shader Preset Pack as well as my CyberLab Uborder Death To Pixels Shader Preset Pack.
However there are some distinctions to be made in how HDR is activated and setup when using Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor and any other Shader.
Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor is the only Shader so far that was built from the ground up with HDR in mind. To my knowledge it is the only Shader which includes an SDR/HDR toggle in its Shader Parameters and it is the only Shader which includes Peak Luminance and Paper White Luminance Parameters and it overrides any HDR Parameters used in the Settings–»Video–»HDR Menu.
You can use HDR with almost any other Shader in RetroArch but for those you need to configure and calibrate your setup using the Parameters in this Settings–»Video–»HDR menu.
This is the most difficult and important aspect of trying to get HDR Shaders and presets looking their best on your particular display.
So you can use whichever one or ones you like the most once you setup everything correctly and try them out. As for me, I tend to use whatever is the latest I’m working on but that doesn’t mean that you should or that the latest is always the greatest and supersedes all that came before. You’d be missing out on some awesome looks if you take that approach. So you can approach my preset packs as a playground with many different pieces of equipment for you to play with. The more you try the more fun you’ll have and eventually you’ll find your favourite or favourites.
The main difference between my Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor Preset packs are the types of CRT Masks featured in the CRT emulation. Secondary differences might be the type of display which they were created on which makes a huge difference in how things look when setup due to variance in calibration and display capabilities or limitations and lastly the distance from the screen when the presets were designed also varies between preset packs as well as individual presets within the pack.
Due to this last factor a preset designed to be sharp and in focus yet still look like a CRT on a big screen TV from viewed from a far distance might look a bit oversaturated, sharper, coarser, clipped when viewed from up close.
This is because things like brightness, sharpness and colour saturation tend to roll off the further away we get from the source of light or the image.
This was designed primarily on an older LG OLED display. It features mainly Aperture Grille (CyberTron) style presets and most of the presets were designed with distant viewing in mind.
I wouldn’t say that it’s more legacy, it’s just different as described above. Of course there are new things that you can learn as you grow and evolve as well as when the tools evolve but sometimes we might already be at a peak or crossroad and through experimentation we might give up or compromise something that was there before in favour of another goal, focus or direction.
Plus these are the best candidates for mobile and lower power device use as things have gotten a bit “heavier” in subsequent preset packs.
This one features mainly Slot Mask Presets. If you didn’t know already most Arcade machines featured Slot Mask monitors so if you wanted a truly authentic look from your arcade games, Slot Mask might be the way to go.
This preset pack also reintroduces the concept of “Near Field” presets. Those were the last presets I made on my older LG OLED display. I was extremely satisfied with what I was able to achieve with those but I hardly got a chance to play with them before my display was damaged.
They say necessity is the mother of invention. Well I invented the out of what could be done with an old LG IPS TV that I had which beside being edge lit and having only 2 local dimming zones, was more like a hybrid 1080p/4K display than a true 4K display.
This is because it couldn’t do RGB 4:4:4 Full colour format while in 4K 60Hz resolution.
At the time when I purchased it I couldn’t give a cahoots about any of that stuff, all I knew or cared about was that it was 4K and it was passive 3D.
For years it remained in the shadow of my much superior OLED upgrade TV but now it was all I had so I had to make the most of it. Through clever calibration, I was actually able to fine tune it so that HDR videos looked beautiful on it. Yes folks, you don’t need an HDR capable display to watch and enjoy HDR video.
It was always brighter than the LG OLED in SDR mode however and that made my older presets from my CyberLab Mega Bezel Death To Pixels Shader Preset Pack look lovely on it as well! Many of them didn’t care about RGB 4:4:4 Full because I didn’t know much about that or subpixel masks yet until @Nesguy started to beat it into me.
"Oh! How your presets look like ", he must have thought. Or, “Why are your presets gaining so much popularity among the common folk? You’ll singlehandedly ruin CRT preservation for all of us!”
I have to thank him though because he helped inspire me to reach where I am today in this field.
Yeah, so, this preset pack features presets that use Shadow (Dot) Mask and should work on some of the crappiest TVs. They were designed in SDR mode so you’ll need a very bright display if you wish to replicate my experience. Luckily Shadow (Dot) Mask CRT Mask emulation preserves the most amount of light on any display so that should help.
If using them on an HDR display then remember to turn HDR On in Settings–»Video–»HDR and also switch the SDR/HDR toggle in Shader Parameters to HDR.
It is also recommended to follow the Custom Aspect Ratio and Scaling suggestions in the filenames for the best shadow mask and scanline representation with the least moiré.
Integer Scaling On is almost always recommended for my presets because I don’t like seeing uneven scanlines.
If using a border shader like Mega Bezel or Uborder integer scaling needs to be off in the Settings–»Video–»Scaling Menu but turned on via the Shader Parameters.
I’ve included my Near Field presets from my previous NX preset pack in this one and going forward all presets should look good or even better from nearer to the screen.
From this preset pack the appropriate CRT-Guest-Advanced-NTSC is included and does not need to be downloaded separately. This helps with consistency but of course it doesn’t apply to any other shaders used by the presets.
Well this is the latest. I wouldn’t say latest and greatest because older stuff is great too but stuff is still being learned and dialed in so the next wave of presets in this pack might be a bit different in terms of default Peak and Paper White Luminance values and possibly Saturation, Gamma and Phosphor emulation.
The latest High Brightness MiniLED displays might be the best yet for CRT Shaders but that extreme brightness coupled with modern integrated features like HDR Tonemapping and BFI/STROBING makes it a bit of a difficult beast to tame and contain.
As a matter of fact, I was lamenting to myself that this ~1,600+ nits display that I’m currently using may not actually be bright enough to enjoy properly with BFI enabled but this was before I started playing around with HDR Tonemapping again which unlocked extra brightness without clipping all the highlights/brights.
This is also because I would like to have a good calibration that I can also use when not retrogaming.
Generally I setup and calibrate my display for general PC use then Shader Presets get configured using the Shader Parameters but I find myself still back and forth trying to get the most out of my display while retaining those OLED like blacks and dark detail.
The thing is I know I’ll probably have to dial everything back in again whenever the next firmware revision comes out. This doesn’t fully affect end users because everyone still has to adjust Peak and Paper White Luminance values (as well as Display’s Subpixel Layout and Colour/Mask Accurate) to best suit their own particular display.
I feel good knowing that the display definitely has enough brightness to do great looking CRT emulation with BFI on as suggested in the Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor system recommendations.
Disclaimer: I am not going to recommend anyone to use anything I made on any OLED display or TV.
I can state what I did or I used or that this preset has the Display Subpixel Layout or Mask Layout already set for OLED so it should be more plug and play or OLED users can start here for proper subpixel alignment and Phosphor emulation.
With that out of the way you can use any preset pack with any type of display once you configure the Display’s Subpixel layout, Mask Layout Peak Luminance and Paper White Luminance values, Maximum Triad Size Desired, Display’s Resolution and CRT-Mask/Mask Size, SDR/HDR, Colour Accurate/Mask Accurate parameters to suit the particular display.
Hmmm…RetroCrisis did 2 videos about my CyberLab Megatron Death To Pixels 4K HDR Shader Preset Pack.
When I looked at the 1st one I was happy to be featured but confused and felt like users might also be left confused.
There was so much emphasis on setting Windows up for HDR and this wasn’t really necessary for HDR to work in RetroArch especially if one is using Vulkan.
In hindsight those calibration steps are very important if you’re running your PC 24/7 in HDR mode, which is what I’m doing now.
Windows HDR only needs to be enabled first if using the D3DXX video drivers in RetroArch.
In the 2nd video he does things which is more in line with the recommended setup options and even goes as far as explaining to users how to change the Display’s Subpixel layout to match their particular display.
I felt very satisfied with that.
To answer your question, no those videos are only partially relevant to my subsequent preset packs since my first Megatron Preset pack references CRT-Guest-Advanced-NTSC in its default folder but my subsequent ones look for it in a separate, dedicated folder.
The proper installation instructions are always included after the preset pack download link and in the readme.txt though.
What this means is that if you updated your Shaders via the Online Updater, you would replace the recommended versions of CRT-Guest-Advanced-NTSC and Mega Bezel Reflection Shader with newer, unsupported ones and the presets wouldn’t look as intended anymore. At best they might look okay or normal but at worst, they could look really horrible or horribly wrong.
So thanks for asking these questions and showing a genuine interest in these preset packs.
I will close by reminding you to take a look at my latest Mega Bezel HDR presets and always remember to download the accompanying CyberLab Custom Blargg NTSC Video Filter Presets pack.
For other SDR designed presets besides Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor Presets you can follow some guidelines if you wish to enhance them with HDR.
