We’d have to agree to disagree on that one. My presets have always been constantly evolving. What if I told you that this is what it was supposed to evolve into all along and that it was just on the journey to what it is now and that they are all still evolving as long as I decide to keep working on them?
At this point I don’t see a need to change the name and I also don’t see a need to add or keep all of my old presets in the same package. One style will just be the old version with whatever date matches the package and going forward this version is just the current version with whatever date is attached to it.
I think you might be a bit confused by the way I do things. The names of or even the design goals for my presets don’t really have much to do with any particular electronics manufacturer’s products.
Everything is all based on whatever is in my mind at the time. I design and create what works and looks good for me on my setup and I share it here so that others can experience what I experience if they so desire.
I do welcome and take feedback into consideration though so I have noted your points. Remember this is all subjective so while some may prefer the old look to this one, the opposite might also be true and one thing I’ve learned in life is that you can’t please everyone.
Besides changing the names, is there anything specific that I can do or share with you in order for you to continue to have a wonderful experience with the preset styles that you prefer?
It’s really very simple to get from one style back to the other and vice versa in terms of settings changes. This might actually be a great opportunity for you to wet your feet and start to do some preset development and tweaking of your own. I only started this about 6 months ago.
So, if you would like to experiment and get things back the way they were, the settings are available in the old presets if you still have them. You might need to alter some settings to maintain compatibility with the current and newer versions of HSM Mega Bezel Reflection Shader.
You can just lower the mask strength and reset the scanline settings to default by clicking start on each of the parameters. The only other thing you might want to change is the Signal Resolution Y and possibly also I to whatever was in the previous versions.
It’s really quite simple and you can save whatever customization you come up with as whatever you feel like calling it.
So I am here to assist you to get things as close as possible to where you want them but I reserve the right to maintain full creative control, direction as well as creative license in the way I express myself, package and produce my works.
I can understand your passion though, especially since you used the term “perfect” to describe my presets but I would prefer a softer approach in the future when addressing these types of issues that can be so easily resolved.
When @guest.r or @HyperspaceMadness madness makes a change to their shaders that affect my presets negatively, I usually take a very humble, respectful and gentle approach towards getting things back the way they were or understanding what the underlying differences may be before moving forward. If you want to be a custodian of my old presets just let me know. It’s really not hard to do things like this as these are just settings but they are settings based on someone’s subjective and in some cases objective vision of how something should be or what something means to them.
I’m glad to know that my work could actually touch someone’s emotions to this point and believe it or not, this is the type of feeling and energy that I am getting from my new presets. Do know that they are very new and are still undergoing testing and tweaking.
One thing I’d like to add is that I run my OLED Light at 95 out of 100 and my LED backlight at 100 out of 100. So if you have an OLED with your backlight set to 70 out of 100, it’s no surprise that my new presets will look darker to you.
If you readup on all of the “Accurate” CRT threads in these forums you’ll see that almost all of the projects and presets require HDR for the extra brightness required to push the full mask and scanlines. No one complains about brightness or dark presets in those threads and they are all aiming for realistic simulation.
Another thing that seems apparent from your post is that your viewing distance to screen size ratio might be a bit different to mine. Maybe if you have a large screen, you might want to try viewing from a further distance if possible because in my viewing environment, even without superior OLED tech that Shadow Of The Beast example in live gameplay is simply magical. Even Super Mario Bros. is a sight to behold for me.
So for your sake, you can just pretend I renamed my Old CyberLab Composite - Sharp PVM Edition preset to CyberLab RGB - Sharp PVM Edition, apply the same tweaks you already had from before and you should be good to go! RGB Sharp is just supposed to be a cleaner, sharper version of the old Composite - Sharp.
Alternatively, you can also try my 1080p Optimized Presets even though you’re using a 4K display.
Thanks for your continued support and patronage.
