I’ve been testing laptops and it’s amazing, I like the night versions better, I think the LED lights look better or maybe it’s my imagination.
The photos do not do justice to reality since they are taken in HDR mode with a tablet, in live it looks better, at least the reflections look good which is what it should be seen 
I personally think Night mode brings out the best in my graphics. (The forced ambiance adds realism.)
About the LEDs. HSM changed a setting in the shader, (A welcome change, for good reason.) that turned all my LEDs on. I originally intended the LED layer to only be on when night mode was applied. (Since they are always on in the background layer.) The end result is that we have an additive LED over the background image, so they are overly bright. I have been torn between just leaving them or doing a mass text search & replace to turn them all off.
I’m still torn but I’m leaning towards turning them all off.
You can do so yourself in the shader parameters by adjusting the LED Layer Opacity to 0%. Maybe it will improve your perception of the daylight mode. 
BTW. Awesome turtles! 
Thanks, I had not seen that parameter, as soon as I can I try it to see how it looks 
You could always set them at 0 or partial opacity in your base preset.
FYI you can use F8 hotkey or Quick Menu > Take Screenshot when still in game then you can get your screenshots under \RetroArch\screenshots directory
Thumbs Up for your “Art Director”))) Few thoughts why I have asked about this in the first place. Some NDS and 3DS games rely on the vertical screen (and gap between them) positioning.
Here are few I have been thinking of.
Doh!
Of course I can. 
(Simple presets are going to take some getting used to.)
That’s exactly what my Art Director said.
Hey Duimon, thanks for good job…
I have i doubt, do you know how to FIX this issue Pillarbox of Shader without force Widescreen via Retroarch Emulation Core?
I try DOSBox (but DosBox don’t have Widrescreen for enable on CORE Settings) and because it, i have Pillarbox and Background don’t fit correct on my 16:9 FullHD Resolution…
I noticed that if we activate HSM Shader, without forcing the core to Widescreen Mode, this problem of Filling Screen occur in all emulators…
It looks like you need to set the Retroarch video aspect to 16:9. (As in HSM’s installation instructions.)
Thanks for big help Duimon, i tried your tip and voilá, worked 100% 
Changed my old settings on Settings>Video>Scaling Integer Scale: Off Aspect Ratio: Auto (Core Provided)
to
Integer Scale: Off Aspect Ratio: 16:9
Your tip FIX my problem, and now i can play everthing without need change/force Widescreen in emulator CORE Settings 
Hey everybody!
I have my first PVM for the Advanced presets to show you. 
Looky here…
This is the default settings. Notice the red does not quite match the Famicom’s.
With a little bit of Bezel Image Layer HSV.
Scaled.
Night Mode!
Purple for the SNES.
A thin frame. (I may make this the default frame width and bezel color.)
Unsaturated and darker, with no curvature on the sides to make it more legit.
I started with the SONY PVM 20M4E. I added my own touch with the stereo speakers to bring the width in line with the default generated bezel. (Which my graphics are designed around.)
The main body uses the Bezel Image Layer.
The switches, text, switch plate, handles, etc. use the Decal Layer.
Of course the LEDs use the LED Layer.
The faint drop shadow uses the Top Extra Layer so it’s opacity and scale can be adjusted. It is solid black behind so scale adjustment is pretty much reserved for shrinking. (I may mess with this a bit more to see if I can add some more freedom.)
This is the very first graphic I have done where the design intent had advanced features in mind. Up to this point I have just been doing surgery on existing graphics. The source reflects the change in intent.
This is also the first graphic I have done after a bit of R&D on the Bezel Image Layer HSV parameters. I am using as the base color…
This makes dialing in a color a bit more natural. By selecting the target color in an image editor and changing just the layer’s Hue to match, it get’s you in the ballpark. This works because we are starting from 0 and have 360 steps of offset. (Just like image editors.)
I hope you like it as much as I do. I look forward to doing a couple more after I get some other stuff done.
Duimon do you know if possible use Animated PNG (APNG) for Background? I tried add a Glowing Power LED but dont work =/
Another doubt is possibility to aggregate this type of resource to the reshade for example? In case for old PC games working with “Windows” DirectX API.
I believe the answer is no on both counts.(Retroarch does not support animated GIFs or PNGs.) I have had some luck using reshade to do overlays and it is pretty clumsy even doing that simple part.
Here’s a pretty raw WIP. 
There is a TON of work left to do but I wanted to show a bit of good faith progress.
I just wanted to clarify, since your questions are leaning towards the technical.
While it is not necessarily bad form to ask those questions here, since I probably dig deeper into these shaders more than the average user, I am only responsible for the graphics this thread is about.
@HyperspaceMadness is the creative genius behind the shader. Many, many questions can be answered by a thorough read of his thread. It is a pretty long thread but I re-read it myself fairly regularly, along with this one.
Outstanding! 
Any chance these graphics coming for other preset tiers? 
This is really Nice!
one question though, have you used the original picture of the console to develop position the screens and the gap?
P.S. Not sure if my previous example had the correct gap, did that in a rush)))
Yes, although it’s a work in progress.
Actually I’m not convinced that the gap distance is as important as you may think. If you look at the Mario & Luigi shot, you can count five stars each on the left and right. Starting at the top, for the distance between the second and the third star to be equal to the distance between the third and fourth, the screen edges would have to be almost flush with the hinge. (Which they are not on the physical device.)
This is compounded by the fact that the way the physical device is designed, as you fold the top half over the bottom half, the screen gap is reduced. The game developers would have no way of knowing what angle you would have the top screen at.
The human mind does a wonderful job of filling in gaps or erasing imperfections when looking at the big picture. (I use this to my advantage in my graphics. They don’t have to be perfect, they just need to be enough to trick the brain.)
This is using the Standard preset. What did you have in mind?
Looking at this graphic, I could probably work some magic with a bunch of layers to give independent scaling to the top bezel, and the bottom bevel and bezel. This would give the user fine control over the distance between the screens and maintain the integrity of the graphic.
Because of the aforementioned reasons, I will probably just add Bezel Image Layer HSV to the advanced, so we can color the console.
Yeah I think something approximate works about very well, the number I’ve seen thrown around for how much space between the screens is about 90 game pixels.
Legend of Kage 2 is one where you can actually measure the distance between screens by taking snapshots of when you are in the trees and when you are falling through and when you are on the ground, then lining the images up. I actually did this a while ago, I’ll see if I can dig it up…
But again I think something approximate is actually fine because the gap is large enough that your eye can’t see it it’s actually off.
Yeah, I edited the top post while you were typing.
The screen gap changes as the device is folded, so it is largely irrelevant.
I will just make it pretty. I am making some big changes to the graphic today. I will post a WIP.
