Yeah I think it all comes down to different tvs, hell even different cables. I believe he said up above his RF cable was missing some pins, I’m sure that played a part in how his image was presented on his screen. Nevertheless I’ll try playing around once guest.r releases his next update, I’m more curious about how he plans to change the ntsc settings up more than anything.
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I love that RF signal alot too. I was using RF Modulator until like June 2000 when I was 12 and I had 5th gen consoles. So I understand where you are coming from. I hope one day Sonkun and friends can make a great version of that Dirty RF and all.
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It’s literally a 1920x1080 full HD flat screen. The console is 35 years old. Yet, I dont know if its the cable or this overall is the experience for people playing on RF-NES gameplays. But the cable seem in good conditions… And this is not the first time I have seen this level of static-interference-noise on screen.
I used to have a genesis console with a RF cable that gave tons of this looking as well. Its like the screen is permanently vibrating.
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This RF cable is just one pin, straight up to connect on the console and one pin to connect on TV-cable signal. And its a 1920x1080 flat screen full HD like stated above, but the TV is in good conditions besides being from 2013.
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I have made some good progress. Test version doesn’t break checkerboard patterns and “prior rainbow effects”, but is quite “rainbowy”, somewhat more colorful.
I think I’ll make a release version soon.
(looks better while running full FPS):
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I’m in a hurry for a meeting, so here’s some footage of Kirby (NES)and sonic 1 (genesis model 1) both over RF. I’ll post my full reply here in a few hours. Sorry about the shitty video compression, I didn’t know my phone was doing that.
As for RF, my understanding is that the console’s RF is the same as its composite, but with a couple additional step, which is to modulate it with a carrier frequency and to modulate audio onto it somehow, neither of which I understand fully. The thing that causes RF and Composite to look different mostly is the CRT, not the console, since the CRT is doing some different method for chroma/luma separation when using RF versus when using Composite.
My best guess is that while a more elaborate comb filter can be used for composite due to composite being more precise without interference/noise, RF might have its color carrier frequency distorted lower or higher and affected more by noise, so the CRT has to stick to older notch filters. Older CRTs probably used only notch filters, but used a more precise notch for composite than for RF. All of this is speculation, and I’m still in a hurry.
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Your kirby looks very beautiful and clean.
But my own has a very big amount of static-interference-noise. Do you know if there’s some way to get close enough to this type of looking?
My suspicision is that the pin being connected to TV is already damaged and can’t deliver proper image.
The only feature in whole retroarch I’ve seen something similar is this so called “Noise” on the bottom from presets, that for example can be found in guest.r’s CRT NTSC preset.
As far as I know, the static cannot be reproduced in other cables like RGB or composite video.
This RF cable has a very thin pin that I can imagine, gets worse over time.
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Sonkun, is there anyway I can port your shaders to like Dolphin and PCSX2? Like I really really want your shaders on there, I am struggling over here with raw pixels lol.
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The only options I can think of is Reshade but then you’d have to port some of the other shaders I have mixed in like “sgenpt-mix multpass” and koko-aio’s amazing “switchres” shader. Not to mention that I went out of my way to fuse the ntsc adaptive shader with guest.r’s hd shader for a different look.
Then I think there’s that Windowcast option. I still haven’t used either option yet.
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Hi, about my 960p thing. Here is what I get with non-integer scaling, full screen. Does it look decent to you ?
The mask seems clean on the title screen but many artifacts appear in the green flat background of the gameplay screen, don’t you think ?
I would have like to compare with another setup (1240x1080 integer overscale 1:1) which how I would play on another handheld, but I cannot make screenshots on my PC Retroarch as soon as I select integer scaling and the shaders, for some reason.
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I would have some nice gaming sessions with that from what I see so I say it still looks just as good as loading it up on a 1080p display. How does Shadow Mask look?
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Thanks for your super quick answer. I did similar screenshots with the shadow mask still composite (core provided AR, crop overscan).
That’s much cleaner IMHO, don’t you think ? It’s really super impressive provided what is given to the shader preset (non integer, crop…)
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I think you ended up putting up your previous Slot Mask pics from your last post by mistake. Looks like Slot Mask again there.
Indeed. I’ve just modified my post above so as not to pollute that much this already VERY long thread.
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Pollute it I don’t mind lol. But yes that is the magic of the amazing guest advanced hd shader at work there, even now I still learn new things about it.
Is that for S-Video and Composite for the Dolphin and PCSX2?
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Are such shaders presets super heavy ? I mean, I’d like to run it on an handheld device with a Snapdragon 865 (that of Samsung S20). I don’t have the device yet, so I’m asking 
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It’s for any console you want to use it for. I’d personally use composite for everything up to the Dreamcast/PS2/,Gamecube era, RGB for arcade and pc games, everything after that is just native wide-screen upscaled.
The S20 should be more than fast enough to handle my presets.
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sdm865 should be able to run these shaders just fine. Just make sure you set the video driver to Vulkan.
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Nice to see you around these parts. Welcome to the forum.
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