@RetroGames4K Take a look at the Gamma/Saturation of these phosphors.
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Yes I know, but how can I achieve that without losing mask integrity? 
It’s been hard already on 1080p. I wish masks looked like that 
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You can probably try Mask Gamma or Gamma_C.
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Here’s my contribution (using @Cyber 's presets with glass)
Only change is mask @ .67It’s too bad I can’t take pics with Vulkan + HDR enabled – that looks amazing 
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No problem man.
Hmmm…just the fact that you can ask that means that there’s some doubt so it just maybe a slight bit too much or something might be looking slightly off to you.
What I would say is that overall these images look great. Brightness seems to be on point. I just think that Ryu might be looking slighty pale/washed out. Maybe the darks could be a little darker to add more contrast.
Now don’t go changing too much though because this is great what you have achieved here. You’ve considerably and sufficiently brightened the picture while preserving the integrity of the mask in the light/white areas.
If this is how you want things to look then by all means you can leave things as is.
What I might do though is probably lower the Gamma C slightly because I like pronounced dark outlines, you can also try lowering the Bright Boost Dark Pixels. Also when you increase Gamma C the image can start to get a little washed out and loose some richness/vividness, you can slightly increase the Saturation to bring that richness and saturation closer to how a CRT might look.
You can use the 240p test suite to assist with fine tuning things like this but I personally prefer to use my own test suite of games.
Some games have some nice little gamma testing areas which I use in order to fine tune my Gamma. For example in Street Fighter II CE (Arcade) at the FBI warning, there’s a rectangle around the yellow text that looks grey if your Gamma is high, I like to lower the Gamma until the grey box blends into the surrounding black area.
Another similar screen is the green Nintendo logo in Donkey Kong Country when games is high the green fade/glow effect stands out, I like to lower Gamma until the green effect is almost invisible but it’s there so it looks like a slight glow instead of an ugly green blob of aliased pixels.
These are just some of the most recent methods I’ve been experimenting with. Feel free to try them out. I’m now on the lookout for other games/scenes which can serve the same purpose as those 2 examples above.
I don’t know but I just think things generally look nicer with the darkest Gamma you can get away with while being bright enough as opposed to “brighter is better because CRTs were bright.”
So in closing you don’t have to change anything if you don’t want to just maybe try to compare where things are with some references because it might only require some very fine adjustments and you don’t want to go overboard and mess up what you’re achieved so far.
Great job man! Keep having fun. At some point you’re going to need to stop tweaking and actually play some games with these presets you’ve been so painstakingly working on, or is this the new game? Lol
You can with a camera, just make sure it’s stabilized. Pro Mode settings can be used here if your camera app supports them. Manual Focus, Set the white balance to match what you see, Speed 1/60 (or 1/30 can work to capture a still shot), Set ISO to what looks good to you you can probably start at about 200 and go up from there. You want the brightness to look neutral as how you see it on the screen and not to overexpose any bright areas.
Maybe you can try using GeForce Experience (Alt+F2 I believe or it could be Alt+F1)
Wow man, looks great! You must be having loads of fun with these! What preset is this by the way, (for the sake of others who might want a similar experience)?
Mask Strength or Mask Bloom?
I doubt because it’s true my crt has higher gamma, and color, scanlines are bare visible, but I think is cause of the fact pal consoles has more scanline resolution and streches the black gaps, I should compare it with a ntsc game. I will try with test suite on the Dreamcast, Dreamcast has more pronunciated scanlines maybe cause dreamcast can achieve 60hz. The sega saturn I have is 50hz only, and that’s why you can see black margins on top and botom of the screen. I will rest for some days, now I’m on vacation for a few days, so when I come back I’ll test it… Thanks.
I just want the exact colour and gamma of my CRT, and I want to achieve that, I think I’m close, but the doubts I have is how to achieve that, but your help is getting me closer. All I do is by eye, I don’t know technical stuff that’s why I need help, and you know about technical stuff, qnd is easier for you to see the errors and I’m always open for some help.
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Ok. I’ll check those examples and see how it looks. I’ll try it on my mobile phone and I’ll try again. I’ll let you know and I’ll post another pic with that logo, also with donkey kong. 
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CyberLab_Arcade_Shadow_Mask_Smooth_Neo-GX_Ultra
Tap on image then zoom in for best viewing. Desktop users, right click then Open in New Tab, then press F11 for FullScreen. Non 4K users, zoom in until it looks correct.
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I think gamma is ok now. I tried 240p test suite on mobile phone, and I had gamma quite high. I think it’s corrected now.
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I have integer scaling mode 3, in guest advanced. If I turn it off, then the slotmask would look squashed and it would be impossible to use it.
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Still doesn’t explain the larger than normal gap.
Does it go away when you increase the Integer Scale Offset?
I wonder if @guest.r has any ideas about this?
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Where is that option? I never used that.
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I have to remind myself that you’re using standalone CRT-Guest-Advanced.
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I switched off integer scaling, and in this game looks ok and not squashed like other games like Mortal Kombat, but I can’t notice any difference in gapps…
Off:
On:
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It’s still there in both of these pics.
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Well I don’t know why that happens, taking integer scaling off stills the same.
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