Maybe is not the right place to further discuss what could be an issue with preset saving, but posting a full preset where you can spot the problem would shed some light on the issue.
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Maybe @Hunterk or @HyperspaceMadness can split it into a new topic.
I’ve been following but not really as in depth as you all so I didn’t want to say anything prematurely but this reminds me of a time when I accidentally changed one of the defaults in the Shader passes and my screenshots ended up a little barrier than my original preset.
It’s very easy to switch one of the filtering settings if navigating the menu especially with the analog stick.
In my case when I followed the Simple preset chain, I ended up discovering a full preset in between, which might have been saved automatically as a result of my accidentally changing one of the default scaling or filtering values while scrolling through the Shader chain or perhaps I had fallen asleep or something like that.
@RetroGames4K you can follow the Shader Preset chain and see if there is a full preset in between which should have been a Simple preset.
Coming to think of it, things like this used to happen a bit more frequently when building upon existing presets and accidentally saving a new preset as with the same name as an older preset from higher up the chain. That’s a no-no and preset breaking scenario. It would be nice if we could get an overwrite warning at some point.
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No, I haven’t change anything. If I open a preset and just by toggling the simple preset button on or off, changes something in the shader and I don’t know what it is. Even without shaders I can notice a difference in the image, that’s all. Just toblet you know. Maybe I’m perfectionist, I just won’t touch the toggle button. 
It’s not your fault, Retroarch has something “invisible” that affects image in a way. When you toggle option buttons in retroarch, also affect sharpness on a CRT TV, like taking notifications off.
So this has nothing to do with shaders?
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Nope, I just tried it yesterday on the CRT and I think Retroarch does weird stuff. I found out that toggling drivers, D3D12 is slightly sharper than open GL, also toggling things like taking notifications off and power savings, does affect sharpness. I can tell the difference, even taking borderless off and leave exclusive full screen looks slightly better on a the CRT.
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Seems odd this would be exclusive to a CRT, unless somehow he specific drivers/settings for it (e.g. switchres,emudriver) had an influence.
I would expect any sharpness changes to be more noticable on non-CRTs.
I’ve run into some issues with the Nivida driver and CRTs as second screen, where it’s necessary to make sure that no scaling is applied and scaling needs to be re-set to 1:1. But that’s a general issue, not RA releated.
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I have no scaling, and I have it natively, games look awesome, I just don’t touch settings knowing now that Retroarch messes a bit with the image.
Where can I ged it to try? Thank you!
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You can get them all here of course!
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Thank you! Can you tell, what presets are on those screenshots?
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Those are just some of my latest Turbo Duo presets from my miniLED preset pack which I’ve been working on recently. The one with the animated movie is a Shadow Mask Preset from either the same pack or my W420M pack. It’s similar to the Genesis Composite Shadow Mask preset but I think I gave it an Alias with the word “Video” in it to help indicate that it’s suitability for video use as well.
Just sort the presets by Date Modified and you’ll see which are the newer ones.
Here are some more screenshots.
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I wanted it to look like a CRT, like on the Astro City, but I think there’s still a lot of work to do.
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I Know I’m almost there, but there’s something I can’t figure out what is missing… I’m still fighting to achieve what my new CRT looks like, I always find there’s half notch missing. I won’t stop until I’m satisfied. I know there’s still work to do.
Real Philips CRT.
My settings…
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in real life the image looks clearer than the one on retroarch
Beforehand, we should test something like this. I also notice that Ryu’s colors are lighter on the TV than on RetroArch. That said, it’s just my personal opinion; we don’t all have the same screen, and that can vary from one screen to another.
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I know, but it’s not only about that, it has to do with brightness, gamma, and contrast. I can make it sharper, but in some ways there’s something not matching, there’s something that I have to figure out, that looks blurrier than other settings, when I think I’ve got it, after a while I find there’s a notch I still can’t find what it is, and I haven’t yet found it yet. I know is not going to look like a real CRT, but I’m convinced that will look amazing if I find what it is. All I do is by eye, I don’t have any knowledge of image or photography.
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You can notice that the sub-pixels are not visible in the image on the right, which removes part of the natural look that a real CRT screen provides. There’s also a loss of nuance in the colors and brightness, making the image less vibrant. To improve this, adjustments should be tested to make the pixel grid more apparent and simulate the sub-pixels as well as the physical structure of CRT screens. This could help recapture the realism and detail seen in the image on the left.
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Yes, I know, that’s what I’m trying to do, but I don’t know which options I have to touch. I think that could be one of the reasons I still can’t find. Any Ideas?
Philips CRT screens, known for their marked brightness and slightly saturated colors, often used a slot mask or a fine dot mask, creating that effect of visible sub-pixels (red, green, blue). The scan lines of Philips CRTs were well-defined, especially in low resolution, often having a slight curvature and slightly blurry edges. They had a very fine mesh that gave the image a particular texture. These are the memories I have of my old television.
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