Great investigation, thanks! Yes sure I’m guessing de-interlacing doesn’t work as I haven’t looked at it. I’ll definitely add to the to-do list.
My main focus at the moment with regards to CRT shaders at least, is to get TATE mode working for the d3d9, 10, 11 and 12 drivers. I’ve made some progress but there’s one more thing to fix before I can submit to GitHub. I hasten to add that’s nothing to do with the Sony Megatron shader but the drivers themselves.
I came across this page that tries to list all subpixel geometries that are used in-practice on modern screens, including phones. Not for any direct use, but since there’s been regular discussion on subpixel types I thought to flag it anyway:
Subpixel Zoo - A Catalog of Subpixel Geometry
Flagging this also to @nesguy and @Cyber for our resident subpixel gurus 
Just got an HDMI cable so I can use RA on my LG OLED CX! Any suggested settings to use? I’ve tried messing around with the HDR settings, “peak luminance” and “paper white luminance” but the image is still very dark.
HDR is working, I just can’t seem to find proper settings.
@datjocko seems to have gotten pretty decent results. Maybe they can share some settings?
Or maybe even @Wilch?
Hi @e2zippo, hmm that’s interesting, as @cyber says some other users with that TV seem to be getting good/acceptable results - so there’s hope at least. If you use SDR is it even darker?
I have LG CX too and the HDR picture is bright and awesome on Megatron.
I’m using RetroArch on Xbox Series X where you can’t normally use HDR but there’s a workaround: if you go to ’All Settings’ and press ’1, 1, 1, 3, 1, 1, 1’ while the ’Picture Mode Settings’ text is highlighted, you can access the ’HMDI Signalling Override’ screen where you can force HDR on by selecting ’ST2084’ for ’EOTF’.
But yeah, Megatron is awesome! Can’t really use any other shader anymore. Hopefully the TATE support comes out soon, can’t wait to try this on some shmups.
“The photo was to demonstrate the improvement to the mask on my OLED, but the overall image still had clipping/crush issues in the highlights and on similar colours unless using the JVC presets as described here: However, using the new colour-accurate parameter, all these issues are gone unless pushing the paper-white too high. Everything looks correct with paper-white at around 550 (nits at 720). Thanks for the amazing update!”
using the new colour-accurate parameter What is this and how to I use it? I seem to be having clipping/crush issues as well
Another thing I’m wondering is what settings are you guys using on the TV? @Scarf @datjocko @Wilch
Specifically Dynamic Tone Mapping? On / Off / HGiG?
Hi @e2zippo make sure you’re up to date with Retroarch and then make sure you update your slang shaders. You do the latter by selecting a slang shader valid video driver - Vulkan/D3D12/D3D11 should all work - then go to the online updater option and ‘update slang-shaders’. Once you’ve got latest you should see an option in the shader parameters for ‘mask accurate/colour accurate’. Also you can choose a OLED sub element layout ‘RBG’ instead of ‘RGB’. Should work.
Hi @Scarf glad you’re liking the Megatron. So you should be able to play in TATE mode on the Vulkan driver - if you can use that (possibly not on an Xbox but PC definitely).
Here’s a few screenshots I’ve just taken - I have to say I bloody love it:
I’m all up to date. I just realized I’ve been doing stupid things. I’ve been trying to load the presets that come with @HyperspaceMadness Mega Bezel located in shaders\shaders_slang\bezel\Mega_Bezel\Presets\Base_CRT_Presets\Sony-Megatron\STD
They are all SDR, not HDR 
Tried some of the shaders in shaders\shaders_slang\hdr instead that are called HDR and they look way better. No I can properly check!
Thanks!
Ah bingo! Great stuff hope this works better for you.
Hmm, I’m still not sure everything is correct. Shouldn’t the image change when I change the luminance settings and contrast in HDR settings? No matter what I pick there, it all looks the same. I’ve tried switching to D3D11 as well instead of Vulkan just to see if there’s any difference, doesn’t seem like it though.
Edit: Never mind, I changed back to Vulkan and now the parameters in the shader seem to change as intended, now I think I’ve gotten everything to work! Like stated before if seems to look great with the following settings on my LG OLED CX.
TV Settings:
Windows Settings:
Retroarch Settings:
Shaders Parameters:
Sorry the slightly confusing thing (ok very) is that this shader because it is natively HDR overrides any settings in the RA->Settings->Video->HDR menu (apart from turning on HDR itself that is). Instead use all the options in the ‘Shader Parameters’ menu underneath Quick Menu->Shaders.
EDIT: obviously you’ve found the correct options under shader params. When you change those are you saying nothing happens? You’ve definitely got HDR selected in the shader parameters too?
Just to say you should probably put your TV brightness up to max. However this may not work when using HDR as HDR is supposed to override local settings but just in case…
EDIT: you can also use the ‘240p Test Suite’ and it’s grey ramps to calibrate your HDR settings - this is different for every TV or at least model of TV.
With LG TVs it’s also important to change the label of the HDMI input that you’re using to match your input device. I have mine set to PC for example. I also use HDR (Game) colour setting.
You might want to lower your Peak Luminance value following @wilch’s advice.
You may also have to adjust your Black Level and Gamma settings for the Input. Power saving settings also significantly affect the brightness of the screen.
Sorry the slightly confusing thing (ok very) is that this shader because it is natively HDR overrides any settings in the RA->Settings->Video->HDR menu (apart from turning on HDR itself that is). Instead use all the options in the ‘Shader Parameters’ menu underneath Quick Menu->Shaders.
Ah, that’s why nothing happened when I tried changing the settings there, quite confusing yes
Things do change when editing the shader parameters though.
Just to say you should probably put your TV brightness up to max. However this may not work when using HDR as HDR is supposed to override local settings but just in case…
Brightness is at 100 on the TV, or are you talking about some other brightness?
With LG TVs it’s also important to change the label of the HDMI input that you’re using to match your input device. I have mine set to PC for example. I also use HDR (Game) colour setting.
You might want to lower your Peak Luminance value following @wilch’s advice.
You may also have to adjust your Black Level and Gamma settings for the Input. Power saving settings also significantly affect the brightness of the screen.
@Cyber: Yep, I’ve changed the input to PC as well to be able to use 2160p@120hz. I think I’m using the same Peak Luminance as @Wilch. 720? Power saving is completely off, like you say it ruins the brightness.
When you say black level and gamma for the input, you’re talking about TV settings right? Black Level settings are Low/High/Auto where I have Auto. Gamma is grayed and can’t be changed, but looks like it’s at 2.2
Ah sorry I thought you said it was at 50% brightness on your TV.
You don’t have a usual gamma curve in rec.2020 (i.e HDR) as it uses a PQ transfer function instead to map up to 10,000 nits. This is controlled by the app/content and not the end user now and so is why it’s greyed out. This is something that I probably need to recheck in RetroArch as I’m not sure I’m passing the correct values back to the TV especially for the Vulkan driver.
Ah ok. Seems like I’m getting the hang of the most important settings then. I had never used the 240p Suite before, only seen screenshots of it, but I just downloaded it and booted it in bsnes.
How would I use the Gray Ramp to calibrate for HDR?
