My bad. OLED Light is at 100 but Brightness is at 50. With Brightness at 100 everythings looks really washed out and bad, looks correct at 50.
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Interesting, you may need to recalibrate it at the higher brightness level i.e adjust your paper white, peak nits gamma etc. On the grey bars in the test suite you need to be able to see all the bars individually as in all the very light grey’s haven’t merged into the white bar and all the very dark grey’s haven’t merged into the black bar. Tweak said values until you get the right look.
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Sorry, Does this setting exist? Not found in RA v1.11 menus
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Sorry, Does this setting exist? Not found in RA v1.11 menus
It’s not visible if HDR is disabled in Windows.
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I believe it should be left at 50. OLED light brightens the image correctly which is already at 100. Brightness at 50 is ‘normal’ and going higher will turn black to grey
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GBA-GBI preset released - you should be able to update slang shaders either today or tomorrow to get it.
This is more of an artistic representation than an actual screen but it brings out GBA games so well I thought I’d release it.
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Hey Cactus, I freakin’ love your AutoHDR addon for ReShade. I was wondering if I might be able to trouble you for a little help? I’ve got a couple of games that are D3D11 that I would love to use it in, but for some reason, I get errors of one sort or another. Usually the ReShade log shows some stuff culiminating with this:
15:00:11:742 [02428] | INFO | Redirecting IDXGISwapChain::ResizeBuffers(this = 000001CB1D2739B0, BufferCount = 1, Width = 3840, Height = 2160, NewFormat = 28, SwapChainFlags = 0x2) … 15:00:11:742 [02428] | ERROR | IDXGISwapChain::ResizeBuffers failed with error code E_INVALIDARG! 15:00:12:102 [02428] | INFO | Unregistered add-on “AutoHDR64”. 15:00:12:102 [02428] | INFO | Exiting …
Thanks in advance! PS I’d be absolutely chuffed if you worked out a way to make it work in Vulkan as well 
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Hi @ZeroHour glad it works for you! Hmm that is strange - it’s basically saying it can’t create a back buffer of that format and with those flags. Maybe the game is providing odd flags that when combined with the format means its not supported? Hmm what game(s) is it? I can try and repro it and see if I can get it to work. I’ve been pushed for time recently as I’ve been building a big tool but hopefully I’ll get some time to revisit this soon.
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Thanks!
I believe so - I presume you’re talking about the dark grey’s in the image? Obviously it depends on your settings too.
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The crushed blacks, yeah. What was the solution? It’s still looking like a bit of a steep falloff at the low end. I thought there was something in dogway’s grading shader that addresses this? Sigmoidal gamma? Or is there just a simple adjustment to the settings?
Here are the changes I’ve made:
#reference "shaders_slang/hdr/crt-sony-megatron-aeg-CTV-4800-VT-hdr.slangp"
hcrt_hdr = "0.000000"
hcrt_gamma_out = "2.204996"
hcrt_crt_screen_type = "0.000000"
hcrt_crt_resolution = "3.000000"
hcrt_brightness = "0.250000"
hcrt_contrast = "-0.000000"
hcrt_gamma_in = "2.200000"
hcrt_red_scanline_min = "0.700000"
hcrt_red_scanline_max = "0.800000"
hcrt_green_scanline_min = "0.700000"
hcrt_green_scanline_max = "0.800000"
hcrt_blue_scanline_min = "0.700000"
hcrt_blue_scanline_max = "0.800000"
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Great game btw, I 1CCed it in my younger days. I appreciate that you’re physically rotating the display. What display is that? I just want exactly what you have, lol.
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So I just made a school boy error and didn’t have my linear space colour in a high precision format. Just shoved a float_framebuffer into the slangp and boom sorted all the glitches at the low end. There’s been a few other minor nips and tucks elsewhere also but I can’t remember off the top of my head.
This shader basically uses everything as sigmoidal as 1D berzier curves are subset of sigmoidal curves. However I will say my curves are tuned towards better accuracy in the middle but don’t go as extreme as say what is used in Dogways but I figured that was better anyway in the general case.
Your settings will be heavily dependent on your display to be honest so it’s case of tweaking them for your TV or changing your TVs settings. I’ve just made sure the values pumped out make sense as in the stepping when going through the appropriate gamma curve. HDR is a whole different ball game of course.
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I presume you’re talking about Dodonpachi - I can’t easily see what you’re replying to? To 1CC that is incredible I think I can probably get to quarter of the way through the first level at a push. 
Brilliant game though. That monitor is an Eve Spectrum - it’s infamous for being created by Eve who have now changed their name to Dough because their rep at delivering the goods was so bad. But it’s a great display when you eventually get it and it’s amazing design. Blur Busters also tuned it so there’s a backlight strobe option but that only works in SDR because it makes the display so dark. It certainly has it’s foibles as mine starts to blink every so often (once every few days of full use) but switching it on and off again fixes it and the regular bios flashes change this behaviour every time - they seem to fix one issue and introduce another but it’s the only monitor that really brings in new features with every flash so there’s that. The stand is really amazing to in how easy it makes it to go vertical - better than most at least.
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Yeah, used to be a bit of a prodigy back in the day, now I’m just an old burnout. 1CCing Dodonpachi definitely stands out as one of the crowning achievements of my life, lol. Mastering it was a very rewarding experience. At a certain point you’re reacting so quickly that it feels like you’re no longer in control - some other part of your brain is calling the shots. It’s bordering on transcendental.
That monitor looks very nice. I see that it’s a glossy screen, too! That’s perfect. Thanks for the recommendation! I know what Santa’s bringing me this year.
What’s the rest of your setup like?
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I’ve always wondered that - if its an altered state of mind. The nearest I’ve got to it is in long distance running where you can get into a trance like state to overcome the pain or “the flow” or “plugged in” when coding. Love all that stuff.
One thing I would warn you about the monitor - it’s HDR performance isn’t great - it’s not got too many dimming zones. You can see this obviously to the blank sides of the screen but I don’t find I notice it too much playing games.
Definitely go on the forum and read the comments good and bad.
As for the speakers they’re Yamaha HS8 monitors and the accompanying subwoofer out of shot. All I’ll say is make sure you’re neighbours are far away.
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This was me with Gate of Thunder, Lords of Thunder and Super Star Soldier. Also, sit down OutRun in the arcades. Nowadays is nothing like back then. I’m a shadow of myself gameplay wise and it’s not just because of the lag. Just too much responsibility to really lose myself in any game to that extent and you really can’t replace the innocence, imagination, sharp reflexes and eyesight of a child, not to mention available free time!
I’m really glad I could still appreciate so many aspects of what made these games truly special even till this day though. Things like the graphics/artwork, gameplay, design, sound/music. Those things can never get old for me and each time my CRT Shader Preset gets closer to what I imagined it adds a little more to a truly wonderful experience.
What do you think of those 3 Shoot 'em ups I just called? Have you experienced them yet?
Another gem that I mastered back in the day was GunSmoke for NES. I’m still relatively good at that. I just love how so many great games back in the day we’re relatively, short, intense and straight to the point!
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Just updated my new default and GBA-GBI presets to be ‘colour accurate’ rather than ‘mask accurate’ as being mask accurate really does break the colours on my display and doesn’t lead to any, significant at least, break down in the mask. In fact I’d go as far as saying it doesn’t seem to break the mask at all.
The close up photos of my display above seem to confirm this too - there is no cyan/magenta/yellow peeping through on my photos (I think).
This is confusing me a lot!
Am I just not seeing the problems because my camera isnt good enough? Is my LCD display just different to the way OLED’s show HDR colour? Can we get rid of this mask accurate/colour accurate option in favour of a solution that does both?
Thoughts welcome.
Anyway here are photos of an old classic with my colour accurate ‘default’ preset:
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I think I’ve seen some yellow in at least one of your screenshots in the past. I think it could have more to do with the camera focus. I see you use Auto focus a lot when taking screenshots. You might want to practice with manual and see.
I don’t know if it’s the same thing we’re talking about here but I’ve observed some distinct yellow almost like a yellow phosphor (next to the green I think) depending on how near my camera was to the screen when trying to focus my screenshots using fixed (manual) focus.
Just a slight movement toward or away from the screen and everything looked like proper RGB again.
My vote is to leave the option in if at least some users are reporting that it benefits them. Just learning from the example of the new RWBG option for OLED TVs we know for a fact that not all displays are created equal and flexibility is a good thing.
All of these screenshots look lovely by the way but do remember that not all users have been able to get this type of experience by simply following the setup instructions and loading one of your presets.
I haven’t even gotten around to trying some of these new options and settings yet, it would be a shame to see them go before I do.
Just sharing an example of the yellow peeping through and I can also observe the red and blue blending to create purple. Another observation is that the phosphors are slightly out of focus.
This is something that can be easily observed and mitigated if using manual focus.
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i think to be able to tell, we need to have shots that are close enough and focused to see the physical pixels rather than the simulated phosphors. That is, at the beginning of the thread, we needed to add some blur to hide the physical pixel structure, and we need to get back to that to detect whether the mask is softening (not necessarily a problem, IMO, to be clear).
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