Yeah I’d love one! The specs sound amazing - it was a great idea to buy two of the best TV’s out there and compare them. Hmm now all I need to do is come up with some masterful plan to get it past her in doors - my children dont need shoes for six months.
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This is something that didn’t really bother me that much using my E6P in my HTPC. Maybe because I didn’t use it much for work I guess (but I do use my living room HTPC for PC stuff and gaming primarily) and because I accepted and understood why it was a part of the OLED experience.
To me it’s not as annoying as coarse Local Dimming making elements of the screen disappear like your mouse cursor or the hidden taskbar on an LED TV so it’s not universal as to how much this would bother all users.
Having the ability to switch it on or off is very useful.
I don’t think QD OLED is going to work 
Yep, that’s a pass for me. I’m not buying any display with a weird subpixel layout. I’ll wait for micro-LED or dual-layer LCD to become a thing.
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Is there a way to circumvent any of this with the service menus? Maybe ABL can be disabled?
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On the bright side, it should be pretty easy to do a nice shadow/dot mask, right? 
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You can turn of ABSL on the C1 using the service remote but say goodbye to your warranty.
That said I’m still tempted to do this as I think this is what was causing my issue with the black corruption when using RA’s BFI in HDR mode.
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What’s going on there? It would be terrible to render text onto as well right? Also by the looks of it half the screen is left dark - surely that’s going to have an effect on your overall brightness.
Hopefully this is just early tech problems that’ll get ironed out shortly.
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I seriously wouldn’t use retroarchs BFI - your screen should have support for blacklight strobing that will be better, brighter and more accurate as to what a CRT actually does, albeit someway off still. As for turning off ABSL you could try it as a test thing? Mind you I suppose that’ll still invalidate your warranty. 
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I don’t know - that looks like half a dot shadow pattern.
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Dual layer is here in the Hisense U9DG.
Is that subpixel layout the same on the Sony A95K?
I was going to say that I read about turning off the ABL somewhere but I didn’t want to confuse this with turning off Auto Dimming.
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The Hisense U9DG apparently has some “serious issues with motion,” according to RTINGS. Hopefully this is just a first gen tech problem and improves as the tech develops.
Panasonic actually got there first with the Megacon, but that’s over $50,000.
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Yeah, they were the first manufacturer I heard about who were developing the dual layer tech. The first product I saw was the Sony BVM-HX310 and then came the Hisense U9DG. Apparently there are a few other offering on the market like this one http://www.tvlogic.tv/new/M_Spec.asp?sidx=103 and this one here https://flandersscientific.com/XM311K/ but it seems as if the achilles heal of the tech might be high power consumption and poor thermal performance requiring special and possible even active cooling solutions. This plus the additional layers don’t bode well for aesthetics either.
https://www.eizoglobal.com/press/releases/2019/NR19_006.html
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Damn that’s a huge shame about the QD-OLED. I hope that’s not indicative of the technology as a whole and only that specific panel. I was really hoping to see a regular 4K flat version, but if they can’t do that with a tight RGB structure then it’s probably not worth it…
I really don’t want another LCD, but I’ve had my eye on this LG 32GQ950 since they mention it using an “A-TW polarizer” which “can help improve off-angle blacks and darker content” so if that actually ends up solving most of the IPS glow and general LCD shittiness that would be nice. If no good RGB-structured non-LCD displays show up in the next year I might have to go with that.
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You know LG also has some non-IPS VA LED/LCD models in their lineup if for some reason you want to stick with that brand. They’re usually in the odd sized models, like 50".
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Looks like this is the best CRT simulation shader available currently. Really impressive work! I still use real CRTs, but the day that a panel meets all of these requirements:
- 60Hz single strobe/flicker options for 60Hz CRT-scan motion clarity for 60fps and lower content (ideally an actual rolling scan flicker rather than plain BFI).
- Top emission display tech.
- Sufficient full screen brightness capability to simulate CRT brightness levels even under the brightness reductions of shader-based blacked out pixels and flicker.
- High enough resolution (4K+?) for high TVL simulation shader details.
- Typical LCD-type sub-pixel structure.
Will be the day that I can stop using CRTs and rely on a shader like this. Will it ever happen? Either way it’s nice knowing that at least this part of the deal is pretty much ready to go.
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Part of it is the subpixel structure, but another huge interest of mine is nits while running BFI, tied with pixel response times in general. Once we get larger format QD displays, for my use case I’ll be sitting far enough away for the mask details to be less apparent, but I’ve been on a huge motion clarity kick lately and I’m wondering how it will compare. I currently have an LG C8 OLED and man the BFI just isn’t cutting it for me, too much brightness loss and the perceived flickering is a little too high. But if a QD monitor and kick up the nits it might be what I’m looking for
More than the mask, I really really want that CRT-esq smooth motion clarity and the sort of light phosphor decay you’d see on most sets. Maybe one day soon!
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@MajorPainTheCactus @Nesguy @Cyber @BendBombBoom
I also have an LG C1 and I can take over the task of testing this shader on it and taking photos. Unfortunately, the best camera I have is a OnePlus 7 Pro. It has a macro mode that I hope is enough to capture subpixel elements though. You can check an example of my photos here: New CRT shader from Guest + CRT Guest Advanced updates
I don’t know much about photography, so if you want specific photo settings, please instruct me on what you would like to see.
Now I’m off to set up RetroArch on Windows and check this shader out in HDR for the first time.
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Firstly thanks for your kind words. I probably wouldnt frame it like this though, as in replacing CRT’s with LCD’s, at least not for the time being. How I’d frame it is in getting access to CRT screens (that are hopefully as close as we can get) that we otherwise wouldn’t have access to.
As in who has the space, money and time to collect all the different models of PVM? Let alone Sony Trinitron, JVC Professional etc and a thousand and one arcades. I’m hoping recreating these CRT screens on LCD’s opens the screen style to a much wider audience who otherwise dont have the time, patience and money to own an actual CRT. I for one didn’t fully appreciate the full spectrum of CRT screens before I started - each is beautiful in its own respect.
Having said all that I totally hope we see your laundry list of features soon. My Eve Spectrum has a version of what youre saying in 1. - Blur Busters implemented it. Brightness is nearly there - certainly some screens should be bright enough. Also a lot of CRT’s didn’t actually get that bright - I’m looking at you TMNT, Simpsons arcades. I think 4K is enough as you’re mostly simulating 300 and 600 TVL monitors.
Pretty much we just need emissive display tech with RGB sub pixel structure as advertised in the QD-OLED promotional material at CES2022.
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I think BFI is a very brute force approach to simulating pulse driven displays. Hopefully backlight strobing will see wider support and hopefully it gets to the level soon that approaches CRT motion clarity.
I dont think we’re that far off. I dont think we need stupid refresh rates either (I know blur busters do) as I think the problem is much simpler than reproducing frames of a game at a ridiculous speed. All we really need is the display itself to pulse the LCD elements and an LED/LCD can have multiple sets of virtual beams unlike a CRT so the problem becomes much easier. OLED’s should get us there due to their response times but obviously hasn’t yet for whatever reasons I’m yet to understand.
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Thanks @nfp0! The more merrier - I’d love to see more photos of this shader taken on different peoples setups and configurations as it’ll help me debug and understand things. Please post whatever you have although it is important to use proper camera settings and post them along side the images. ISO 100 or ISO 200 (I’ve been using the latter), white point D65 (ie 6504K) and 1/60 aperture speed (or whatever refresh rate youre using)
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