Perhaps, this can be an option in RetroArch. “Delete Shaders_Slang directory before update - On/Off”
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Hmm so youre not running too disimilar setup to me - I run a Windows 10 pc with a 3080ti. Ok so Im thinking this something to do with the CX - possibly the ports used. What refresh rate are you delivering and is it 4K?
If its not too disruptive you should definitely delete your slang_shaders directory as Hunterk mentioned and re-download just to rule out dirty files.
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Ah ha I think I might have it - you need to use ‘PC mode’ rather than ‘Game mode’. This is from the RTings review of the LG CX - from the input section. Note the last paragraph.
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I don’t think these are necessarily mutually exclusive or even referring to the same group of settings. “PC Mode” refers to the Input labeling setting.
While there is a “Game Console” input label, I have a strong feeling that the “Game Mode” they’re referring to is one of the picture modes and not an input label.
In order to get the least processed signal, I think the input should be labeled PC while the picture mode should be set to Game.
Of course HDMI Deep Color should be enabled as well for the HDMI input.
So these are 3 different settings in 3 different places which all affect how the TV processes (or doesn’t process) the Input signal.
I doubt you would want to use any mode that doesn’t display 120Hz properly at 4K unless maybe you’re watching a movie and switch to a mode that’s more optimized for that instead.
These TVs, also have the ability to switch to Game Mode automatically.
@barack-ojama, you can also try setting your desktop refresh rate to 60Hz temporarily to see if there’s a bug with 120Hz mode which is causing issues since according to the RTINGS review, “According to other owners, the LG CX can’t display 4:4:4 properly when sent a 4K @ 120Hz signal from an RTX 3080 over HDMI 2.1.”
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Yeah so what we’re trying to do here is put the tv into fail safe settings and just see if we can get some change/resolution to the issues we’re seeing. Absolutely come back to low latency game modes and 120hz after weve gotten somewhere.
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Same here, removing the shader folder didn’t work for me either. The shaders did work as they should until they just didn’t after some update and I haven’t touched any of the settings on my TV (my LG CX has always been set to the PC Mode and the Xbox Series X is running in 120Hz mode, setting it to 60Hz actually makes the image way worse lol) so this is weird indeed.
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That sounds like a clue! Changing refresh rate should have zero effect on the image - especially from 120hz to 60hz. Hmm let me think. What I will say is that your setup is a bit more of an edge case than @barack-ojama as theyre just using a PC so there could be more things at play with your setup such as your aforementioned HDR hack. Barack ojamas should just work. Can either of you get the 240p test suite and throw up a couple of photos of the plunging grey bars and some close up shots of the pure red, green, blue and white test screens?
Also some photos of your shader parameters so I can verify theyre as Id expect.
https://abload.de/img/33d7ef5c-151d-466e-9e8dm9.jpeg
https://abload.de/img/0bdb2b77-7f91-4836-891d6d.jpeg
https://abload.de/img/f1e5f86c-1596-4651-9i8cjc.jpeg
I think switching to 60Hz just disables the 4:4:4 mode for whatever reason, it’s weird since the RTINGS link posted before says that it’s shouldn’t work in 4K/120Hz mode.
You can see in the 240p Test Suite picture how the background color behind the bars is not pitch black like the black bars on the TV. Also, I have no idea what I’m doing while taking these pictures. I downloaded a 3rd party app to get rid of the post processing on my iPhone but the settings are probably way off to get good pictures of up close.
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This is strange. Actually when we speak of 4:4:4 mode we’re not talking about YCbCr444, we’re actually speaking about RGB444 so if you’re now seeing RGB even without the 4:4:4 then you’ve got it set correctly. You can verify this in your nVIDIA Control Panel’s Change Resolution Panel. You need to set it to Use NVIDIA color settings to be able to adjust the settings manually.
You can try 700 for both Peak Luminance and Paper White Luminance.
You can also try 300TVL (0) for the resolution setting.
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That’s the thing, you can see the VRR information on LG CX by pressing the green button eight or so times. When I change from 120Hz to 60Hz mode, the information says it’s now set to ”YCB420 10b TM” instead of ”RGB 10bit 4L10”. The colors also look dull in 60Hz mode with the SDR version of Megatron.
EDIT: Setting Peak Luminance and Paper White Luminance to 700 and changing CRT gamma all the way up to 3.5 or higher makes the image to look like it used to for me.
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Ok so we’re kind of getting somewhere. Firstly thanks for the pics thats great. Your peak and paper white luminance were wrong at the default settings as @cyber said. With HDR this is something everybody has to set for their own particular tvs and (surpringly to me for an OLED) you might even push it up to 850 for both.
But that does not account for the colour discrepancy - it really does look like chroma compression is on. What does 4L10 mean? 10bit? Id probably like to see a message such as RGB444 10bit. Ill look into that.
Putting crt gamma up to 3.5 will artificially lighten the image but will give a broken image (Im guessing) and indicates something is really not right.
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Ok so just watched this video https://youtu.be/vw4ia4-OmHE about XSX and its video options with the LG CX and the behaviour you are seeing is right as in when you use 60Hz you are dropping down to HDMI2.0 and chroma compression kicks in. At 120hz Im not sure what your tv is quite doing but its certainly got more bandwidth as itll be using hdmi2.1 - I presume its 10bit full chroma.
So one thing have you got AutoHDR on your XSX off - you should have. Also you could try turning off low latency mode and vrr just to see if that makes things better. Also Im guessing dont allow YCBr 4:2:2 too.
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I ramped up the CRT gamma to get deeper blacks. Just setting Peak Brightness / Paper White to 700/700 makes the blacks even more greyish. Iirc, I used settings 780/500 before the blacks got raised, I never touched the gamma value and the blacks were black.
Auto HDR only works on the games that support it. It won’t work on RetroArch.
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Another thing to try from this thread are the chroma test images from the first reply: https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/ubm2bg/how_to_set_up_3090_to_output_10_bit_colour_for_lg/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
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You say you’re getting raised blacks. Do you have your Black Level setting on your TV on Low, High or Auto? You can try setting it to Low and see if that gives you the black levels you desire.
Also beware of Power Saving settings as they have a significant effect on overall brightness.
I know of at least one RetroArch user who uses AutoHDR.
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Yeah, Black Level is set to Low.
Someone uses Auto HDR with RetroArch on Xbox? I don’t know how that would be possible.
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Tried a number of suggestions mentioned earlier. I’m running at 4k/120hz and had deleted my slang folder when it was first suggested. My TV has already been set to PC mode and also changing the refresh rate to 60hz didn’t have an effect.
I took some pictures that major asked for, though I’m not sure how well it comes across on cam. I used crt-sony-megatron-default-hdr with all of the default parameters for these pics. Basically, when it comes to the black levels, all of the megatron shaders I’ve tried, whether its labelled hdr or sdr, exhibits raised black levels with none of the parameters fixing this. Hopefully these pics help: https://imgur.com/a/HkUJNCe
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Fantastic pics thanks. Comparing yours to Scarfs it looks like youve got different problems with Scarfs colours being off - what do you think? Im going to try reproing this on mine - the last two images look like they are of sonic and knuckles? Is that right? Whats the difference between the top and bottom images? I can see what you are talking about in the bottom pic. Let me look at this exact screen whatever its of. Again many thanks to you and @scarf for preserving with this.
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@barack-ojama and @scarf so Ive managed to repro both your problems.
A bit of background I have 5 displays I use to test on: Eve Spectrum (4K IPS HDR 700 nits), Samsung S95B (4K QD-OLED HDR 1000 nits), BenQ EW3270 (4K VA 300 nits), Dell XPS laptop (4K IPS SDR 600 nits), OnePlus 8 Pro mobile phone (1440p AMOLED SDR 1400 nits).
Ive gone into the 240p test suite and selected the grey ramp test pattern which shows two black to white and vice versa gradients across the screen. When I adjust the paper white and peak luminance and then the CRT gamma values to get a perfect black to white gradient on my BenQ because its so dark I have to have the paper white value right up to the peak luminance (of the monitor which is basically 250ish nits) and thus I need to compensate with a really high gamma value.
This I think gives the washed colours on that display which is what scarf is seeing when I look at the pure red, green and blue test screens. Lowering the paper white value and reducing the crt gamma seems to fix it in my limited testing at the cost of brightness.
On my Samsung S95B because its so bright I can have paper white around 200-300 nits (peak at 1050 nits) and a crt gamma of 2.22 giving perfect blacks and pretty bright whites and thus all the colours are vivid. Im yet to test the other screens I have - Ill first give you a report of my mobile phone.
Long and short is to play with those three settings and Ill have a think to see if there is anything I can do to help matters.
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