Itll be a bit of both diffusion and reflection - there will be imperfections in glass/plastic etc and several layers on all screens (lcd/oled/crt) to prevent glare, environment reflections etc and some of that light will bounce off the back and some will go off at oblique angles etc and bounce off other imperfections. What is unique to a crt is curvature but Im not sure how much that plays a part in what we see and is rather down to more imperfections of materials vs more modern materials and whether simulating it just adds to the mess that is brought in by your lcd/oled. But maybe simulating isnt the point.
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Oh gosh, yes, the curvature could play another part in the mix, never thought of it ahah.
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Maybe curvature isnt unique to crts as of course there are lcds and oleds with curved screens - I wonder how they behave in this respect
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Great photos! Thanks for sharing. I think you might have your curtains open as I think you can see your windows reflected in some of the pictures above - itd be good to see what effects come from the crt rather than the lighting in your room.
Edit: also what tv are we looking at here and what signal?
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Thanks😀 Ok. Next time I’ll post them on night time, maybe some more tonight so it would be without reflections.
This ia a 14" CRT Sanyo CE14AT08-C, it’s a Pal TV supports 60hz, photos are taken from a Pal Sega Saturn with scart RGB. Also you can check the model of my CRT here in my thread if you want 
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Oh fantastic beautiful screen - gives a really nice image!
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Yes it really does. Photos can be good, but better if you watch it directly with bare eyes. I know is not a Trinitron, but this sanyo has really a clear image with slotmask.
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Another 1084S, perspective corrected in GIMP. Not so clear but gives an idea how scanlines are represented.
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This glow on top of the empty tube seen in the right corner, so you see that in person, or is that from the photo?
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i guess it’s from the camera.
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Atari SC1224 color monitor. Note the (ST) active area without borders has an actual aspect 1.4.
If i wanted to reproduce this i would say CRT-Geom scanlines and curvature with guest.r filter. Mask 0 on 1080p, something more detailed in larger resolutions.
Better still, lottes-fast with sharpen 4.0 or so (glsl).
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Here are some shots of a Philips TS 2774 C101. I use it in TATE (since the box sits nicely on its side). So bear in mind all these pics need to be rotated 90 degrees clockwise.
(I also didn’t notice earlier there is a bit of lint on the screen over Dig Dug’s head.)
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If you look at the white part of the E on the Right pic, you can see that from a normal distance this appears white and not as RGB. This is why I am starting to use mask strength at less than 80% on my LG C9 OLED with HDR. It brightens up the picture A LOT. You can’t make out the RGB but it will look white.
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Thats clipping introduced by the camera - you dont really want to reproduce that. However if youre screen is not very bright then its definitely a thing you can do to brighten up your image sadly at the cost of accuracy.
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New monitor aquirement Eizo Flexscan 8060S Multisync 14". Eizo = Nanao. Can do 15-35 KHz. Wasn’t what I was looking for, I was on the hunt for something more conventional (e.g. the monitor frequency for this one means it can do at most 800x600 at 56 hz…), but the price was a real bargain, so I couldn’t resist.
Presumably rather old - reviews I found indicated this model was launched in the second half of the 80s. When I got it, the picture was a notch too dark, thankfully I could adjust by turning the internal Screen knob to bring it to acceptable level. Sharpness for 480p and above is just about adequate…I’m being used looking at my 480p LCDs and of what I remember from my 17" Syncmaster CRT monitor, which definitely ran circles around this. Flip-side is, that things blend together more nicely, double scan VGA looks more pleasing to me etc. Scanlines in 240p mode are also right, not too distracting.
The monitor also has an Amber/B&W switch. As you can see in the pictures I’m supplying, it doesn’t quite work for the B&W used on a full color picture. I’ve read in a review that this might be normal, but I’m not sure if it’s that severe because of the input I’m using. I’ve read the manual of another multisync monitor where it was mentioned that the monochrome switch is meant for textmode and only works with digital RGB (EGA etc.), so maybe it would look better in such circumstances.
Anyway, I’ve taken some pics with resolution fed from PC: 240p, 288p, 480p close ups, for 240p also a pic showing it from greater distance and with the mono switches on. At the end I’m also uploading the input pics I used.
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Congrats! Enjoy it 
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