If you look good you’ll find a DREZ preset, you can try that.
Also are you upscaling the internal resolution in your games?
If so, try 1x or Native Resolution.
You’re most welcome.
It doesn’t seem all that bad to me.
If you look good you’ll find a DREZ preset, you can try that.
Also are you upscaling the internal resolution in your games?
If so, try 1x or Native Resolution.
You’re most welcome.
It doesn’t seem all that bad to me.
Sir, I tip my hat to you. I unironically thought they looked like perfect dot mask circles and had to zoom in pretty close to find out they aren’t quite circles Absolutely stunning! Especially the Daimakaimura screen That looks insanely authentic
Thanks but while I might be responsible for dialing in the settings to achieve the final look, I didn’t make these shaders, just the presets so credit must be given to the developers, authors and contributors who’s work went into making all of this possible.
Já testei vários presets, mas esses seus aí são absolutamente absurdo. Excelente trabalho cara. Falo com meu irmão sobre a facilidade de alcançar esse resultado das CRTs com esses Shaders. Quebrei a cabeça aqui em downscaling na Sony Wega pra alcançar os 240p, os cabos, adaptadores, Scalers, etc… E com os Shaders e todo trabalho dessa comunidade é praticamente Plug and Play. Por isso tenho raiva desse pessoal " Puristas dos Retro Game " Que por vezes tentam desmerecer os emuladores e todo esse trabalho que todos vocês fazem. FPGA vai para o Inferno
This is some useful information pertaining to HDR. This can particularly come in handy for folks who are trying to use my W420M 4K SDR presets or any HDR preset with an SDR display.
Just finished one of my favourite games of all time, Lords of Thunder with one life, for the first time in probably decades. I used this preset!
CyberLab Megatron NX W420M 4K SDR Game Turbo Duo_DC Composite Shadow Mask Smooth Turbo Ultra Ultimate NC CAR10x8x Advanced Near Field.slangp
It’s now available in my latest W420M Shader Preset Pack release.
Zoom in or download then zoom in and be sure to brighten your screen!
Desktop users, right click then open in a new tab then zoom in until things look right.
They should also look perfect if you zoom out until they match the integer scale specified in the filename.
Seems like the old man’s still got it? Definitely wasn’t held back by any latency due to software emulation nor was I hindered by the fact that I wasn’t using a CRT nor OLED TV.
I also used a wireless Xbox Series S/X controller.
Perhaps RetroArch isn’t that bad at all?
For those looking to get in on some of that bright MiniLED action, now would be a great time to purchase a new TV!
no no i use the native resolution but is use the windowcast core for apply the CRT on my video capture card (with the real hardware)
but i have find a solution I find that the RGB Sharp preset that I modified does the job well ! just one question i want use for PS2 game (480p or 576i for my case with PAL game ?) but I wonder if this rendering is normal with this vertical line (this is a rendering with a low TVL I’m right ?) for the scanline I imagine however that it is normal that the scanline is no longer visible since I’m in 480p
I use the 1080p presetThat’s the RGB Phosphors and CRT Mask. Zoom into your screenshot and you should see it better.
Correct, at 480p the gaps between the scanlines are a lot smaller than at 240p so they’re barely visible. If you zoom into your screenshots and look closely enough, you should see them though.
just i have a last question if you can help me Cyber, when i change the type of the mask for have less vertical bar (exemple mask 7) I have a flashing lights on my screen sometime (white flash) i dont know for what but If you can give me an answer I’m interested
I don’t know what you’re describing. Can you share a photo or video?
No problem ! This : https://streamable.com/87w0sx the mask 6 has no issue but when i switch on the mask 7 (which has less vertical line) this is happening
You’re good. This game isn’t easy and requires previous knowledge of enemy spawn spots and attack patterns, enviromental hazards, and coolness to manage different dangers from all directions. I wish I was pro enough to beat it with one life. Congrats, chief!
By the way, RetroArch couldn’t be farther from being bad. The average purist may think he’s some sort of X-Men, with inhuman reflexes, but reality is most people can’t tell apart any amount of about 3~4 frames of input lag, and RetroArch can go lower even without run-ahead. In fact, I’ve beaten many games using RetroArch which I couldn’t beat as a teenager using the original console and a CRT. And, no, I didn’t use save states or rewind or cheats for that, although I use them for other unrelated reasons.
For the moment i use the mask 10, mask size at 2 and CRT Mask Zoom (+ mask width) at -5, vertical lines are less visible with this setting and it work for the moment i have no issue
Hey guys, I acquired some additional new monitors and after having enjoyed the Cyberlab MegaBezel pack I was wondering if it’s worth trying to make the HDR packs work considering the specs.
Gigabyte AORUS FO32U2P Review - RTINGS.com
It’s a 4K QD-OLED with a “real scene” HDR brightness of 423 cd/m². I watched both RetroCrisis videos on these preset packs and I’m still a bit confused. There are Retroarch HDR settings and then there are shader parameter HDR settings. Should they be the same or should I max one of them out and then adjust the other like in the instructions? Without the shader if I set ‘peak luminance’ to 420 and ‘paper white luminance’ to roughly 250 then the 240p Test Suite looks good but as soon as I turn on the shader the image becomes too dark, as you well know.
Is Megatron too dark for the monitor or am I misunderstanding something?
I’ve seen stranger things when a certain mask doesn’t agree with a display.
I’m going to guess that a GPU screenshot doesn’t show the issue?
If I’m correct it is a hardware incompatibility issue and using a different style mask is the only solution.
It also has
Peak 2% Window 1,037 cd/m²
Peak 10% Window 466 cd/m²
Don’t be confused. Did you read the setup instructions for Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor?
These are for any Shader besides Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor.
These are for when you’re using Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor.
Settings in Shader Parameters override the settings in Settings–»Video–»HDR.
You can also use those settings to convert Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor shader presets in SDR Mode to HDR if you wish.
Now you’re confusing yourself. Are you saying that you tried to set Peak Luminance and Paperwhite luminance values without any Shader loaded?
If so, that doesn’t make any sense so strike that out from your setup methodology.
Everything should be setup while an HDR or HDR Ready Shader Preset is loaded. You can use 240p Test Suite to help dial things for example to see if there’s any clipping in highlights or crushing of shadow detail but games are very important as well for testing.
If 250nits is too dark then just turn it up.
You can even experiment with higher peak luminance values since all of that is dependent on the content that is on the screen at any given point in time. So using an average won’t give you an accurate picture of the true Peak Luminance value.
Use your eyes more and your brain less.
If you read the first post of the Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor thread it says that a minimum HDR600 display is recommended for a good experience, while an HDR1000 display is recommended.
If after turning up the Paper White Luminance it’s too dark you can still try the hybrid approach which is what I’ve employed in my latest update to my CyberLab Mega Bezel Death To Pixels Shader Preset Pack. There’s a new folder in there called “CyberLab_4K_HDR_Presets”.
You have to use the set your Peak Luminance, Paper White Luminance and Contrast in the Settings–»Video–»HDR menu for those presets.
Just remember that if any setting is too high, it might result in a clipped, burnt look, where gradients are missing or blend into one colour.
i have record a video and yeah the issue is no visible on the video, if you want i have this video which shows the issue in more detail : https://streamable.com/iuappn
for information i have a Samsung monitor (incurved) 1920x1080 QLED, RTX 3080 EVGA ftw3 ultra and im on windows 11
Thanks, as a youth I used to beat Gate of Thunder on the hardest level (Devil) without losing any lives!
It’s a distant goal of mine (to be able to do that again). I never reached that level of mastery in Lords of Thunder though I was able to beat the game on Super difficulty with at least one Continue.
The thing with Lords of Thunder is that having a good strategy with respect to items purchasing and managing your in-game funds wisely can assist you quite a bit.
I think that’s what I got right the last time around. So now I just have to keep practicing and see if I can continue to work my way up to mastering Normal, then Hard, then Super although I think I might just skip straight to Super once I Master Normal again.
The other thing I did differently was that I went after the stages I found the most difficult first.
The last thing that I did differently was that I sat closer to the screen than I normally do. That’s how I ended up making my first W420M Near Field preset. Colours and Sharpness really pop within a certain distance and then begin to drop off and get duller as you move further away from the screen.