If you zoom in closely, isn’t it clear to see? There are a lot less dark subpixels in the brightest of the screenshots. That preset emulates a hypothetical higher resolution CRT, where you can’t see the individual phosphors and shadow mask.
The “authentic looking” presets simply need a display with enough sustained brightness in order to be displayed as intended. You can read more about these things here:
Sooo after a few days of figuring this out + you helping me (which again, I appreciate you!!) I figured out that the Thor… doesn’t have HDR, DOH.
So I did downloaded the Megatron NX W420M pack and yup SDR works! Not sure if you have any other shaders you might recommend as I believe this one falls under your “greatest shader preset pack”, but it’s the reason why I really wanted this to work because you’re right! This shader pack you have compiled has been so good to use on my other monitor I was wishing figure out how to use it on my Thor.
But TLDR, pretty much no HDR on Thor, the W420M so for has the correct colors.
Any other shader packs you might recommend for SDR? I think I’ll stick with the miniLED epic death packs for my OLED monitor 
Thank you again!!
Oh no. That’s not the end of the world though. Having HDR is not what matters. Having enough brightness is what matters. You can have enough brightness without HDR just as you can have HDR and still not have enough brightness.
There is no such thing as an SDR or HDR shader preset from a fundamental perspective. There are presets with the SDR/HDR “switch” set to SDR Mode or HDR Mode and you can toggle between modes in realtime, using the same preset.
So there’s nothing stopping you from using any preset from any shader preset pack.
You should definitely try my Epic PVM and Pro Monitor Edition Wx presets as they are some of my brightness offerings using Sony Megatron Colour Video Monitor.
Don’t be afraid to try my other preset packs as well. You might be pleasantly surprised by what was accomplished even years ago.
I’m glad you guys were able to work it out in the end, but please be sure to treat each other with mutual respect moving forward. People’s own project-specific threads should be a sort of “safe space”, I think, while non-specific, community threads are more neutral and therefore a better place for constructive criticism.
Oh man, huge apologies if my posts came out non respectful 
But yes I’m def happy things worked out well! Despite using retroarch for a while now, changing the shader’s parameters is a whole new world for me so lots of trial and error.
Again apologies for any mixed messages!
Don’t worry, my post isn’t about you. There was some back-and-forth that I cleaned up.
Hi Cyber, it’s been a while since I posted here! Recently I discovered the Shader Subframe feature of RA combined with the Crt-beam shader preset, it’s really good, but I tried to apply it along with one of your presets but it does not work. I’ve put the crt-beam shader first in the presets list but it does nothing when combined to one of your presets (it works with some other presets like Crt-Royale, etc.). Is there something I’m missing, or is it just impossible to use them together ? Anyway, thanks for your amazing presets as usual!
Hmmm…this would be a lot more fun if you stated the exact presets or at least the Preset packs that you tried it with that it didn’t work and screenshots or photos showing the results you’re getting.
I never got CRT-Beam-Simulator to look right, even by itself. I always get this weird horizontal humbar looking thing.
I don’t think it will work with Mega Bezel until @HyperspaceMadness adds support.
I do have evidence that it works with Sony Megatron Colour Video Monitor as @Azurfel includes some presets which use it in his preset pack.
I would like to see what it looks like when working. You say you got it to work with my CRT-Royale preset pack.
I just use the BFI that came with my display.
No, I got it working with the regular Crt-royale preset, not yours. The one I tried was CyberLab__SNES-Slot_Mask_IV_OLED__ADV.slangp.
I use bfi-simple in my presets, which works a bit differently, but the humbar is a side effect of CRT-Beam-Simulator’s “LCD Anti-Retention” setting.
*Do not turn that setting off on an LCD unless you fully understand the risks involved.
Using software BFI on LCDs without such mitigations can definitely cause temporary image retention, and it may be able to cause permanent image retention or other damage to the panel with frequent enough use.
OLEDs using software BFI without the mitigations seems fine based on my fairly extensive personal experience. (Which makes sense since that is effectively how an LG OLED display’s built-in BFI works anyway.) But ultimately i take no responsibility for what happens to any panel but my own.
Source for that? AFAIK, it is not permanent.
@Tromzy You may want to try this (anti retention mitigations for ips panels is included), it can be prepended or appended . It would be nice to get some feedback too.
Mark Rejhon seems to think that it could hypothetically cause permanent damage without the mitigations enabled if a certain amount of care isn’t taken per this post. (It does sound like it would take a lot, mind, but a lot isn’t the same as impossible.)
Oh well… "It’s not permanent unless you run it 24/7 for months on end. "
This is what it states, but the link he provides does not support that anyway or I missed it; btw even if true, It seems making it permanent would be impossible in pratice.
I’ve tried it with LCD Anti-Retension On and Off and either way didn’t look good. I think I read somewhere that it isn’t compatible with all displays and that ReroArch needs to implement some frame pacing algorithm for it to work properly. I hear the ShaderGlass version doesn’t have this problem.
I also tried @kokoko3k’s version with no luck. I just went back to my display’s solution which works.
What was the issue? Maybe prepending did not worked?
I can’t remember so I’ll have to retest. In any case, my current GPU is limited to a maximum of 3840 x 2160 @ 100Hz with RGB 444 Full colour so to test it at 120Hz, I either have to use some sort of chroma compression or lower my resolution to 1080p.
So I just use the TVs BFI which doesn’t need the refresh rate to be 120Hz and just works!
At minimum, you must be able to double the content refresh rate for subframe/software BFI to work well.
It is a complete nonstarter if you can’t do that, and it’s definitely better you stick to using the display’s BFI/strobing in that case (tho just to be sure: note that you should match the content refresh rate in that case if the extra lag isnt debilitating, rather than 100hz.)
Also worth noting: there are lagless displayport to HDMI 2.1 converters which allow for 2160@120hz HDR with 4:4:4 chroma if that is something that would work with your setup.
I use the CalDigit “DP 2.0 to HDMI 2.1 (8K)” (model number DP20-HDMI21) paired with an RTX 2080, and it has worked very well for me. The only major downside is that it does not support VRR. I don’t think there are options that support VRR even today some years on, but that is probably worth double checking before you buy if you choose to do so.
I use this Display Port 1.4 to HDMI 2.1 Adapter.
I’ve updated the firmware since getting it. Can’t detect any lag. It’s not the limiting factor though, it’s my GeForce GTX 1070. It doesn’t support DSC. I did a lot of research on the issue, that’s how I was finally able to get it working at 2160p @ 100Hz with 8-bit RGB 4:4:4 Full.
