CyberLab Death To Pixels Shader Preset Packs

Best wishes @Cyber ! Now your project has it own home, hope to see lots of love and death to pixels :star_struck:


Thank you very much for the support and camaraderie! You keep up the great work yourself!


@Cyber I found what may be a typo while trying to get the “Arcade Sharp 1080 edition” working on my craptastic work laptop

It is referencing “CyberLab Mega Bezel Death To Pixels Composite Pure.slangp” at the top of the slangp file. Should this actually reference the “Arcade Sharp.slangp” file instead? I was trying to mess around and make a “potato” version (I used MBZ__5__POTATO__GDV.slangp instead of MBZ__3__BASIC-EXTRA-PASSES__GDV.slangp that you mentioned for low-end systems) and noticed that it didn’t have any effect when I made changes, until I went in and changed that reference.

Hope that made sense!

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Hi @Neofuuma. That shouldn’t be a typo. The Arcade Sharp 1080p Edition is actually supposed to reference the "CyberLab Mega Bezel Death To Pixels Composite Pure.slang preset because I used that as the starting point. What you need to do is follow the chain of presets until you get to the base preset that contains this reference:

and replace the MBZ_2_STD_GUEST-SM.slangp with whatever alternative you’re trying to use.

So I just went and double checked.

The Arcade Sharp 1080p preset is correctly referencing the Composite pure preset that was its starting point. If you follow the chain of references you will see that the Composite Pure preset is referencing the “MBZ__2__STD__GDV.slangp” so that’s where you have to make the change if you want to try a different HSM MBZ base preset.

At the time of my testing the lowest MBZ level you can use while maintaining the appearance of the presets is the one I mentioned in my suggestion, the MBZ_3_BASIC-EXTRA-PASSES_GDV.slangp.

So you can go back and try that and let me know what happens. You can also let me know if you need any further clarification or assistance.

What kind of performance did you get at 1080p using the Arcade Sharp 1080p preset?

Also, I’m sure you know that @HyperspaceMadness is working on implementing some major performance improvements in the next version so it’s only a matter of time!

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@Cyber Just tried going back and putting in the MBZ_3_BASIC-EXTRA-PASSES_GDV.slangp one. I can get about 50-51fps, so it’s not quiiiiiite up to where it needs to be, but I think with default setup I was getting 20 fps or so. Granted, this laptop just uses intel integrated, and only has a max resolution of 1600x900, so maybe even that has more to do with it.

On the bright side, tinkering with that gave me insight into how some of that goes together!

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Hmmm…seems like you just need a little more! Why don’t you try my Arcade Raw 1080p preset with either the basic or potato MBZ Base preset? The Arcade Raw 1080p doesn’t use any ScaleFX and some other stuff that is included in the other presets. It might look similar after the base preset downgrade.

You know the first version of HSM Mega Bezel Reflection Shader that I used was much faster than this one and the version before. Perhaps you can try that version and see if it gets you over the line?

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This is similar to what my early gaming setup was like in my youth. @HyperspaceMadness, @TheNamec, @Duimon, @Tromzy, @Neofuuma

Notice the near perfect geometry and orientation of the image on screen despite the obvious bulge and curvature of the picture tube.


The C1702 is one (if not the most) praised Commodore monitor for retrogaming. Despite its age, it offers quite hi quality colors and sharpness.

This was the first monitor I rebuilt for the Mega Bezel Commodore Pack, I LOVE it! :heart_eyes:


I made sure to pick one up as I was buying commodore stuff for my museum. I am proud to own one.


Here’s the preset that I came up with from your RGB Sharp. It’ll have to do until I buy a 4K monitor. It’s pretty funny that the only reason I want a 4K monitor is to play retro games, lol. I’d really like to see your presets in all their glory!


Download: Google Drive

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Thanks and welcome! Presets can still look very awesome at 1440p and 1080p resolutions with a little tweaking you know but I can understand the feeling!

I’m glad you like my presets.

Nice screenshots!!

What were you getting before cropping just the pink horizontal lines?

Were the gauges detail onscreen before you cropped? If so then perhaps you cropped too much? Only crop if you’re seeing black bars.

If cropping didn’t work, but setting Int. Scale Mode to 1 worked to eliminate your issues then by all means, that’s what you should use. Just cropping the black bars on the top and bottom worked for me in MVSC. Changing the Int. Scale Mode to 1 without cropping also worked for me but that was just one game. I’ll try to test some more games to see how things look.

Just doing a follow-up. Are all of the issues resolved now?

I did some follow up testing and I realize that MVSC2 is a totally different ball game to get exactly right. Without 320 x 240 you get no smoothing of the sprites. With 320 x 240 you don’t have enough pixels to render the fonts properly so they look messed up. Turning on fake scanlines can help reduce the “pixelation” in the sprites but I would prefer a better solution if there is one. This is something I’ll have to work on. I’ll try @HyperspaceMadness special DREZ preset and see how that looks and if it can be tweaked to perfection.

In the meantime, I might change my default Int. Scale Mode to 1 in my presets at some point so any users encountering the pink bands or pink horizontal lines issues you encountered won’t have that problem initially.

The fact that there’s a whole base preset variation dedicated to this game in HSM Mega Bezel Reflection Shader says a lot.

Hmmm…seems like getting this MVSC2 to look perfect is like playing wack-a-mole. There’s always some compromise that has to be made somewhere it seems.


Here are some screenshots of 128 bit cores (Flycast / PCSX2) with my settings for @Cyber’s awesome 1440p preset (open each image in a new tab for full resolution) :

Unfortunately, I cannot post any Dolphin screenshot because for some reason, RetroArch refuses to take any screenshot of Dolphin. :confused: (maybe because it’s using D3D11)

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Thanks for sharing! These look great!

Do you believe you can get Dreamcast/Naomi/Atomiswave games to look even better than this?! I’ve been busting my brains out trying to get a perfect balance for MVSC2. You can try setting your Int. Scale Mode to 1 to improve scanlines quality and make sure to crop all games that have black borders. You can also try my RGB - Sharp preset!

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Yeah, I’m not quite satisfied with the settings, yet. Dolphin games look absolutely gorgeous, but that’s probably because I increased resolution to 3x for that core, when Flycast and PCSX2 are running at native console res. I’ll post some screenshots of FLycast / PCSX2 games running at increased resolution too, results are good too I think.

If I set Integer scale to one, the picture shrinks a bit too much.

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Here are some increased resolution screenshots :

The image on Flycast looks sharper obviously, but it’s a bit too “blocky” I think. I must add that I disable interlacing. For PCSX2 I get weird big scanlines with interlacing disabled, but they disappear when I reenable it (see the 2 GT4 screenshots for comparison).

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Well that might depend on the game and internal resolution you’re running. When I suggested to set it to 1 it was to actually expand the screen a bit as that helps with the quality of the scanlines. I’m new to 32-bit and beyond emulation so I would need some time to get familiar with the quirks. What I’ve noticed is that increased internal resolution results in vertical gaps in Ryu’s Super Hadoken in MVSC2. There always seems to be something wrong or at least not quite right somewhere if I change something to fix something else. In time I’ll post some updated presets just for Dreamcast/Naomi/Atomiswave and other higher resolution systems now that my 8-bit and 16-bit era stuff is more or less mature.

Another setting that makes a huge difference is the Opposite Dir Multiplier (Y Downsample for H Scanlines). Default is 100 but 75 and 50 really brings out the scanlines by reducing the number and making them thicker on those higher resolution consoles. The downside is that high res elements like text suffers as well as the scanlines looking not properly aligned depending on the combination of that setting and the internal resolution.

Lastly, I’ve been experimenting with HSM’s special DEREZ base preset because I’m not seeing the same results when I use the STD base preset.

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Thanks again.

What method do you use to use my presets with Duimon’s overlays?

I know it’s not that difficult but I’m just curious as @Aeoliza was asking previously.

If you’re using an nVIDIA Graphics Card, you can probably press Alt-F1 to take a screenshot. Or look for the Dolphin screenshot hotkey in standalone dolphin and try it and see if it works in RetroArch.

Try 320 x 240 Internal resolution or anything higher than native. You should get better smoothing. You can also adjust the Opp Dir Multiplier to reduce the number of horizontal scanlines while making them thicker. That helps a lot with blockiness.

I just copy one of the presets, lets say “Dreamcast-[STD]-[Guest].slangp” for example, and I just replace the first line “#reference “:/shaders/shaders_slang/bezel/Mega_Bezel/Presets/Base_CRT_Presets/MBZ__2__STD__GDV.slangp”” with my custom Cyber preset.

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There was no room(black areas) for cropping but since you gave me those cropping values, I just did what you told me to. The black areas are generally present in Mame games from what I’ve seen, but then the color bands happen. As I mentioned before and also shared screenshots, SF3 3rd strike for Dreamcast has black areas too for some odd reason which I cropped but I got the color bands issue. So I had to do both cropping and Int scaling thing on it.

Right now the only workaround seems to be setting Integer scaling the preset settings to 1. But it still remains to be seen if it will work on all games.

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