No, he never go that far.
The problem with going down the arcade rabbit hole is that it starts with companies, and then never ends. There are literally thousands of arcade games.
I wouldn’t be against collaborating with an artist willing to do the work. Like I said, I have some templates, and some tricks I could share.
the whole overlay thing can be a huge rabbit hole , besides like you said there a tons of arcade games , some cabinets maybe lost in time others you will not come across and even more where you can´t find the bezel art etc. than their a that non standard arcade machines like sitdown etc. and besides that all you could go with display units , or that tv console combo things like from sharp ( searching for these in 2,5-4k by the way ^^) …there are no limits but to find and get good scans or pictures of such things can be hard on its own , and i just talking about real things turned into overlays …no limits what you can do on your own so its a “great curse” i would say to get fully invested in these things like @Orionsangel or @Duimon , i am doing these for fun and want to share them , they are doing them for years now and look what they done i can even change the color of my “simulated” gameboy case just with the sahder settings 
I was actually taken aback somewhat by you reply. Not because it’s wrong but rather because it is 100% correct and understandable. I kinda felt a bit guilty for implying, eh, unsavoury things. Which isn’t even close to what I had in mind. 
Nothing but respect and admiration for the work done and that certain rules need to be respected.
Keep on rocking!
No worries maybe I over reacted. Sometimes “boardroom” topics spill over into the public forum.
In all honesty, the reason for the graphics being split into so many parts (Even the speakers are a separate layer in the MAME preset.) was for @akuma22’s project.
I would love it if someone wanted to pick up where he left off. I just don’t want to find out about it in a surprise YouTube video I stumble upon.
When I edit these company overlays I only put the logo of the most famous ones, because I separate the roms and I like to leave it that way. But it takes a lot of work to recreate them all. More famous like Midway, Toaplan, Konami, Sega… No need to recreate the real cabinet from your games. Just a universal case to place logos more easily.
It is already universal.
If you go into my source repo.
https://github.com/Duimon/Duimon-Mega-Bezel-Source
In the MAME folder are a group of *.psd.zip. (i.e. MAME_CAB.psd.zip, MAME_CAB_Speakers.psd.zip)
Each of these contains a mask to make changing the background, glass, and speakers virtually painless.
Hey guys, can anyone help me with a noob confusion?
I was using the “Shaders Parameters” window to edit some Duimon Bezel values. Then I used the “Save Shader Preset As” to make saves along the way.
Once I got it looking the way I wanted, I made a final custom shader preset save. But when I deleted the past ones, this final saved preset fails to load.
It’s only when I restore the old ones from Recycle Bin that my preset loads properly. Is that how it’s supposed to work in RetroArch? You need the entire chain of saves?
Each one of your saves was a simple preset, referencing the previous one.
You should have been saving to the same name along the way.
You can combine them using a text editor, deleting redundant or changed previous values, and use the reference in the oldest.
Things will be easier going forward if you always save to the same name. I do it all the time when I am building my presets.
Go ahead and load them in an editor and you will see what I am talking about. Pay attention to the top line… the #reference line.
Thanks for the help Duimon! Now…if I disable that “simple preset” option…can I save them as “independent” presets (without referencing previous ones)?
I wouldn’t recommend it. Both the shader and my pack are in a constant state of development. If you disable simple presets they will stop working relatively soon.
Do you have a specific need to save each step as a separate preset?
Well, I modify a single value and save it - then test it on multiple games to make sure it looks right.
I may end up modifying a dozen values before I get the look right. Which means I end up with a dozen preset files (which looks very messy in my folder).
But I will do as you originally said and use the same preset save.
couldn´t you just save it as the global setting ? and when you like the endresult just copy over these settings ?^^
You can still save a single change at a time and test it, then load that preset, make another change, save as the same name, test etc.
Save it as something easy to remember like test, or something easy to type, like just a single letter (q).
Just make sure to load the saved preset before you make your next change.
Duimon, just to briefly return to that Capcom shader that Final Boss shared, even if there are never going to be any company-specific ones, maybe a version where the left and right black areas are replaced by a matching arcade background. Maybe in reality that is not so easy and I’m underestimating the work to be done, but it could look real awesome.
Just a proposal. Up to you.
That’s right, that would be a very good thing. We could eit according to the MAME roms, customizing. That was the intention when I edited it. If Duimon can make one like this it would be amazing.
If you go back through the post over the years you will see that my resistance to doing this kind of thing is nothing new.
Talk about my MAME design was one of earliest subjects of conversation.
The MAME cabinet was never intended to be a “Generic” cabinet that could be customized. I just did the work for @akuma22’s project.
Even the “Arcade” and “FB-Neo” versions were done by request only.
@HyperspaceMadness and I have talked about working on a “Cabinet” version of the shader. I have done some test versions of a generic cabinet.
I have even received permission from a photographer on Tumblr to use his work as backgrounds.
There is a reason the “Cabinet Glass” image layer has it’s name, and cropping glass art is what the “Cutout” feature is intended for. The team has not forgotten the arcade users.
Features to aid in this kind of setup are on the table but it is a long way off. (Inner and outer shadows on the “Cutout”, ambient screen reflections on the cabinet sides and/or control panel etc.)
The Mega Bezel has been in development for almost three years. Who knows what will happen in the next three.
To sum things up I am not against an artist picking up where @akuma22 left off. I am not entirely against doing the work myself… but I have already done most of the hard work.
To further aid in customizing the preset I can separate the background layer, speakers, and glass from the rest… but that is all I am willing to do in the near future.
The Mega Bezel was designed for artists… not just one artist. At some point, my doing all the work will become a handicap, not a benefit.
Hi @Duimon, I was experimenting tonight…and that last noise filter in the ‘Shaders Parameters’ window is AMAZING!
As I said before, I prefer a cartoony “anime” look to my games - but still wanted to retain some depth and texture to represent the retro “tube tv” look.
Turning on that (by default, disabled) noise filter did the trick. It’s not static, it almost feels like it’s breathing on the screen! Gives so much life into the “tube/screen”…and also creates this great visual contrast vs. the smoother plastic framing of your bezels.
I also added a little extra glow…along with the noise, it really feels like I’m staring at an old TV - while retaining a pleasant cartoon feel.
…
But one important thing I’m finding hard to adjust are the strength of scanlines. After experimenting, I realize that they add a necessary sharpness. When they’re completely disabled, you may get too much blurring or dullness in the picture.
So I’m trying to get to a place where they’re more subtle - while still providing the necessary texture.
In your previous guidance, you pointed to the “Trigger RES” option. When I reduce that, I don’t really notice much of a change…until I hit the “200” number. Then the scanlines suddenly turn off completely (or appears to).
Is there another option I can use to affect the scanline strength? Or maybe another option to increase the sharpness when scanlines disappear?
I don’t think there is a way to do this, it is a side effect of the multiple scaling passes in the shader. Maybe @HyperspaceMadness knows something I don’t.
You can try leaving the Trigger RES alone and adjusting the “[SCALINE OPTIONS]>>>Scanline Beam Shape Center – scanline1” to something lower that the default.
I’m not sure how this affects different scanline types (The parameter just above this one.) You can play with both and see if you find something you like.
To be honest, I don’t have a ton of experience with the CRT shader parameters. I intentionally leave mine at the default settings for this project unless I absolutely need to change something (Monochrome CRTs/LCDs etc.)
Hi Duimon,
Have you created a graphic for the mattel aquarius? I can emulate this in mame and in retroarch. I can find the mattel intellivision in your set but not the aquarius.
Same goes for the Casio PV2000
SourceYeah I’ve been thinking about this too 
With @guest.r’s new No Scanline mode coming in the next release. I think I’ll add an additional option which would be to go to No Scanline mode when the interlace threshold is met, and probably have this be the default.
Right now the only way to sharpen it when we switch to interlace threshold is to increase the Fast Sharpen parameters, but of course this increases sharpness even when you have scanlines visible with a 240p core.
