Probably some of my .slangp settings I’m using are interfering with this… and I’m getting distorted or shrunken overlay that requires me to zoom to about 2.3. This is definitely a me setup problem lol, when I rotated the game itself in fbneo core settings (vertical on) I get a fair bit of moire pattern… maybe because I’m using a 1080p monitor 
I think I’ll leave this experiment here for now m8… thanks for your help 
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Moire could happen in this case, yeah.
You can rotate scanlines via TATE setting and see if it fixes it.
Other options are fake integer scanlines parameter or fake slotmask, which can hide moire as well.
Fake slotmask:
First disable real slotmask emulation, if enabled:
…next enable fake slotmask emulation which, instead of drawing staggered tiny gaps vertically between phosphors, staggers the scanline itself; a value around 0.18 should work:
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I’ll try that pal thanks, I might try just rotate the overlay in photoshop and save it lol. It’s most likely not the right way to do it but I know it’ll work just to try it 
But moving forward I think I’ll do a fresh install
I still don’t understand what you’re trying to do, but ok lol 
Just use a vertical overlay from the 4K vertical overlay thread in conjunction with yr shader. The vertical overlay’s are for both horizontal and vertical games but the screen remains vertical… I’d have to show you what I mean.
I see the screen not rotated, so 4:3.
You just need to set the overlay file path to bg_over in koko-aio, then alogn everything via “global zoom” and content geometry override, I guess.
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Ah looking at the beginning of that thread the overlays are horizontal but later on it’s focused more on vertical overlays like this:
And looking at this overlay i think the main places where the light should naturally hit is on the cpo at the bottom and the speaker grill near the top. So i’d need to rotate the led positions of the ambi light if thats possible? I’d also need to mask the marquee and maybe the joysticks
Can’t see the image 
(imgbb,upgrade to pro…)
…
One preliminar quick question: will your real monitor/display be phisycally rotated?
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Yes m8, I’d have to physically rotate it.
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Ah, now it is clear!
What I’d do would be to set the operating system itself to rotate the screen; that way the shader would see a window with dimensions 1080x1920 and would adapt itself automatically, so you don’t have to worry about rotation at all, and you can think at it just like a normal tall window, straight.
Ambilight position controls that may interest you are:
Internalness (Led position), which moves the virtual strips far or near the screen and Widen lights(horizontal or vertical games) that stretches the emitted light without needing to touch the power.
There are no controls to shift them up/down or left/right, so if you will light the marquee under the speakers, it will light even the lower one over the joysticks (and sides ofc).
If you want to emulate a night(er) setup, you can take inspiration from the immersive preset.
Always take a look to docs-ng.md before doing things; it may spare you some headaches and time 
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Thanks for the help pal and yes i’ll start looking to the docs from now on. Did what you suggested and got it working pretty good. I reckon i’ll need a much bigger monitor than the one i’ve got though! (24")
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Not only bigger, but with higher resolution, and maybe a relatively fast GPU to drive more pixels (a recent IGP, expecially AMD may work tho)
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I know …that might be the end of that project for now then lol
Wow I tried Presets_HiresGames_Fast and I have 60 fps now!! Thanks for the advice!!!
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As usual, I’m not sure if i’m doing things right: I’m trying to use those beatiful Commodore Bezels made by TheNamec. I’d like to have the background AND some foreground over the bezel’s edge, as poorly seen in the picture. I tried using the foreground image as a “backdrop”, but because of some reason, it repeats itself when using zoom<1. Although it doesn’t seem the proper way.
I thought I could use bg_over AND bg_under (at the same time) with the attached pictures, but it doesn’s seem to work either.
Is there any way to actually use two images (and backdrop)?
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There’s no way to have both, because usually there’s no need for it. You already did 90% of the job, just use something like this as your foreground image (i just removed the inner bezel via gimp to make it transparent (which is the way shipped 1084S* presets are made)
The repeating issue when you zoom out can be worked out by either adding content to the borders so that they show up as you wish on a different zoom, or make it appear as black (instead of repeating), by operating on the following parameter:
So that instead of this:
…you get this:
PS: I’m one of the fools who owned (and still have, but broken) that CDTV fiasco, but I love it, so when you’ve done, it would be very nice to see the final result!
I suggest you, to use the outer bezel from a real 1084S black model if you manage to find a straight one, or maybe retouching a white one.
So ahead of time, too much.
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Thanks for all the explanation!!! TheNamec actually has a 1084S black model. Maybe I can do some editing with GIMP and put the monitor over the console background, the lable over the edges, and then add the transparent inner part. I suppose HSM-MB do all that, and that is why koko-aio is much more simple and fast.
PS: I haven’t had that console. Yeah, so ahead of time, although optical media didn’t last that long…even less than magnetic.
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