Please show off what crt shaders can do!

That is a valuable opinion. Thanks for the input.

I’m beginning to think that perhaps my tastes are a bit strange.

I prefer to see the scanning lines and mask clearly, but do not want the screen to be darkened by the scanning lines and mask. This is my preference. Perhaps an unusual preference.

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There are Mega Bezel Reflection Shader base presets which include ScaleFX or Super-XBR and also some which include all sorts of horizontal filtering which can also produce a sort of nice downsampled antialiased effect when combined with upsampling.

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You are not entirely wrong about variable TVL. TVL is just one possible way to measure, often you can also find total lines/dots/pixels/resolution given in CRT specs. And sometimes a difference is stated depending on the input, like RGB vs Composite (“Video”).

For our purposes here, I suppose TVL is mostly indicating how fine (or coarse) a mask is. In reality, it would correlate somewhat with sharpness, but ofc even CRTs of the same model differ because of focus etc. On my old (now defunct) Samsung CRT monitor there was an extra sharpness setting that made a big difference and made low-res content and scanlines look pleasant when you turned it down. Of course then the Windows desktop was not really usuable for working.

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:rotating_light:New update ready :rotating_light: I made a clean preset, I hope I haven’t forgotten anything. :sweat_smile:

Sorry for the delay!!!

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That looks fantastic!

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Initial RGB colors as seen on a typical PC. This same image will look much better on a cellphone with a wide gamut (typically) without any correction.

Colors after corrected with “simple_color_controls.glsl”, PAL seen here. That is almost 1:1 now with my CRT (PAL). Tested colors for accuracy in many SNES games and they are really there

The whites in these appear pinkish on my Samsung Galaxy A71.

All other whites, including the whites in the forum and in most other preset screenshots appear neutral to me on this and my other devices.

I noticed this with some of the previous screenshots you posted as well and I think @sonkun mentioned something about it.

Could this be due to a miscalculation or miscalibration somewhere or possibly due to eye fatigue?

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The whites appear perfectly white on my PC, while they do look different on a cellphone because it uses a different color space than PC. So the end result there is not what is expected on PC, that’s why i included DCI presets on shader, they are automatically used if GLES is found.

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i wanna see 1080p shaders please

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‘GDV’ fastest version…

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I’m working on 1080p, but I don’t know if this looks correct. Which mask should I use to look correct? Im using mask 6 with zoom 3. Which is best for 1080p?

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looks good on my screen

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Maybe I should touch other parameters then. Thanks

Slot mask isn’t really that good on 1080p anyway, but if you insist using it. It’s technically way too rough and unrealistic low TVL with zoom for monitor size upwards. Mask 6 = 3 px. So 1080 /3 = 360 TVL = standard TV. Lower is possible, but it’s getting more unrealistic, the bigger your actual display is. On a phone, it makes a different impression, just like in real life with Mini TVs (in real life, these would be essentially scanline free from what I’ve seen).

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on my display (1080p 24’’) I can see weird patterns the image is not usable over here. I agree with @Jamirus, 1080p and slotmask is a troublesome pair…

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I think slot masks can work at 1080p, but you have to tamper down certain expectations. For one, curvature is probably a bit too hard to get looking good, as there’s not enough resolution to avoid moire. Overscaling is practically a must, too, as you want as much resolution as humanly possible, but of course this is a no-go with hi-res content, as that cuts off too much space. For masks, I personally find mask 9 is the best one to use, as it’s three-pixels wide and plays well with the slot mask parameters. And for scanlines, you really want them to be quite light. Make them too strong and pronounced, and you see a pattern where every other line looks different, which appears to be a side effect of the slot mask itself, and it’s just ugly.

Here’s about where I find the scanline strength to look quite good at 1080p. As you can see, they’re quite light and are almost invisible in places:

The most surefire way to get it looking alright is to use No Scanline mode. This replicates what many smaller, older sets look like, where there are no visible lines even with 240p, and as a bonus it’s a little brighter, but of course it ends up looking somewhat blurrier. The biggest upside to No Scanline Mode, though, is that it does not require integer scaling at all, so it can be freely used with hi-res 480p content without letterboxing. Also, I just found out not too long ago that the very earliest VGA monitors actually used slot masks like their CGA/EGA predecessors and showed no scanlines due to line-doubling on games, so a slot mask No Scanline Mode setup could work quite well for VGA DOS games as well.

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I tried hard to make slotmask and scanline gaps looking good at 1080p; and I agree with all of the previous posts.

In the end I even tried to draft unexisting masks that give a similar feeling when viewed at distance or weird things like making phosphor height = scanlines height.

Btw, following the canonical path, I’ve found that in addition to previous suggestions, you can avoid weird patterns with and without curvature by using use wider phosphors or shorter phosphors; the latter is better imho.

This is a good example from @DariusG that looks convincing from near and far:

@sonkun should have a bit of experience in that regard too :slight_smile:

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It can be done and looks very convincing, lottes mask 1 has already done it. It looks very close to the real thing as long as you dont look 2 cm from screen looking for the slot mask. crt-geom scanlines code in crt-cyclon (that is running in screenshots) helps to avoid moire. But in reality in CRT there is very little curvature, bezel is curved but the end image is nearly flat. At 1440p if we do the math it’s 480 TVL, 360 TVL is not that bad either, it looks like a normal TV. If we want to be more accurate we should lower scanlines strength too, 480 TVL has stronger scanlines certainly.

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