Failed to apply preset
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Hello and welcome to the forum. Come over to my thread and we can try and get to the bottom of it over there.
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CyberLab CRT-Guest-Advanced-NTSC W420M 4K SDR Game Turbo Duo_DC 3D Comb Filter Shadow Mask Ultra.slangp
Best viewed zoomed in or at 1:1 native resolution with no scaling/stretching.
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Thanks for doing SDR again bro, I used to have great HDR with my LG CX but that TV got commandeered by my wife and now I have a Samsung with HDR with the light capabilities of a dark hole.
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No problem. You do know that you can use my “HDR” presets on a non-HDR Display. I’ve been running some modified versions of them on a not so awesome IPS display for a little while now since my OLED TV has been out of order.
I’ve calibrated my display to operate around it’s peak brightness though.
Now you’ve piqued my curiosity because I would like to do some research to see how bad this display really is.
Can it get even get almost as bright as your OLED TV?
Have you disabled power saving and turned up the Backlight and Contrast?
Good for you, unless your wife is a videophile, she was getting the Samsung (after some extensive tweaking) if it was up to me. Maybe she is enthusiastic about these things? lol
I’ve benefited greatly from having my LG OLED TV to compare with my other TVs and use as a reference to get the most out of them.
You might be able to get more out of your Samsung after some calibration.
The biggest problem with my (current) TV for shaders is that it can’t do RGB 4:4:4 full at 4K 60Hz. As you can see I’ve been trying to work around these challenges with my W420M presets. As a by product they should also work well for YouTube when uploading HDR video content but I’m awaiting someone to test that theory.
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Yeah it’s not the greatest when it comes to HDR, it’s a Samsung CU7000, the HDR is around 300nits if I recall correctly. Best thing about it is that it’s 75’, it’s a wedding gift from my wife, she’s so nice to me, and the LG was small enough to hang on the wall of the bedroom, so it seemed like a good idea lol. It’s nowhere close to the LG OLED, those blacks are crazy, this one it seems foggy only when it’s a completely dark picture or some dark spots at the corners when it’s fully white. Power saving is always off.
I didn’t know that I can use your HDR presets as SDR, I always loved your presets, this is so exciting! I tried the newest HDR presets but they seemed darker than your old ones, admittedly, I didn’t crank up the brightness and contrast as I thought it’d be like the old ones, but I’ll try this soon. Thanks for the instructions as always bro!
The Samsung does 4k60 4:4:4 8bpc, guess this is good enough : p
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Yes, you just have to adjust the SDR/HDR parameter to SDR and max out your Backlight and Contrast (On some TVs it’s possible that you might have to max out the Brightness but that doesn’t work on my LG IPS, it just raises the Black levels and washes out everything.)
If it’s too dull you can try increasing the Colour.
The instructions have always been in the Shader Parameters. I guess some folks miss that.
Well the old ones are not outdated you know, they just serve a different purpose. That’s why the new ones are called “Near Field” when viewing my old ones from close to the screen the colours seemed too harsh and oversaturated and the edges also seemed harsh and too coarse. This is because I designed them for viewing at some distance from the screen while maintaining focus and sharpness.
After changing my viewing setup I started work on my “Near Field” presets then my OLED TV bit the dust.
The paperwhite values are lower for those but you’re supposed to adjust that to suit your own display in any case so if it’s dark, you’re either limited by the display or you need to set things up properly.
When the brightness values are set too high colours can have a burnt, clipped, posterized look.
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This is the result of a couple of shaders.
The first one is simple_color_controls and the second is the one by @Beans in this thread.
I need the first shader to up a little the brightness and down a little the contrast because the second shader sometimes output a darker image.
This is the original image on PSX Beetle software rendering with native rendering resolution.
And this is with with simple_color_controls and crt-beans.
simple_color_controls: Brightness: 1.20 Contrast: 0.80
“crt-beans” (the shader its simply called “crt” on his thread) Glow width: 0.02 Glow amount: 0.05
I think the default values for Glow width and glow amount in crt shader are a llittle high for my taste so reducted values from 0.04 and 0.15 to 0.02 and 0.05.
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Lately my Fav preset is Monitor-Screen_Hmask-Screen_SlotMask_Taller. I just turned on my CRT Cab, and tweaked the shader gamma (2.20 in, 0.4 out) and sharpness (glow x, y set to -0.75) to make it similar to the real thing:
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POV: You just bought this on Facebook Marketplace from some plain old pants guy for over $200, and when you got home after 3 more hours of driving and finally set it up… You just got f***ing scammed.
I don’t know if this smearing effect is as common as I’m assuming, but I made it anyway. Whenever a color goes over 1.0, it gets clamped, and whatever got clamped off goes into the next pixel. Then, when that pixel gets clamped over 1.0, what’s left over that goes into the next pixel. A long line of bright pixels smears to the right. Because many US jungle chips decode red at a higher saturation than other colors, this probably is what makes red the most prone to smearing on old CRTs. Or, pardon my lack of knowledge on how CRTs work, but I’ve heard that red uses more electricity than the other phosphors, or something.
The next horrible shader I’ll tell you about is my burn-in shader. In the zip file I just uploaded on my thread, it’s hidden in the “resources” folder. It legit causes the image to burn in while you’re playing. Why would anyone use it? I don’t know.
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I once had a PC monitor 1024 x 768, i opened it, jerking with the tube and did the image like that, convergence gone to hell. Lucky it didn’t kill me lol. Didn’t know how to reset it back to normal so i throw it away
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That’s stunning for 1080p, i like the realism in that mask is everywhere upon you just as in a real CRT. Mask is the most visible thing in reality, very visible even from half a meter. Probably even stronger than that, i would say in reality 1 pixel every 6 is totally black in reality (a 4k monitor would do that well).
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Tried to make gba really sharp with koko-base. I tried it on my phone and it needs high brightness to look good
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Thanks!
Indeed, I’m reconsidering the mask importance lately.
Not only it is nice per se, but it is somehow able to soften the shapes edges, probably a mind trick, just like scanlines do.
Starting from those presets, In all of my “scientific” attempts to sacrify mask for brightness, the image looked somehow dirtier, contrary to what one could believe.
In those presets, scanlines gaps have been infact lowered to allow for more mask and a decent brightness.
One could try to switch from rgb to green magenta and gain luminance, but my lcd hates it and starts to display weird artifacts 
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Man you actually paid for a crt? I got mines for free a few weeks ago and the guy tried it out in front of me before putting it in my car. Always make them test it first before anything, bring your old playstation or something with you if you have to for testing lol. I plan to get my hands on a 32 inch off the market soon and I won’t be paying a dime for it.
Has anyone tried to play with quake 2 remastered crt shaders?
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CyberLab Megatron NX W420M 4K SDR Game Turbo Duo_DC Composite Shadow Mask Ultra Smooth Ultimate CAR10x8x.slangp
Zoom in or download then zoom in and be sure to brighten your screen until they look right!
Desktop users, right click then open in a new tab then zoom in until things look right.
They should also look perfect if you zoom out until they match the integer scale specified in the filename.
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