Interesting find! So what is going on here? Why would the panel manufacturer need/want to change the subpixel layout? Especially to a triangle if that’s what people are saying.
Seems a bit suspicious as with pretty much all PC monitors you want to read text off of them and pretty much every OS uses the standard sub pixel structure to render high resolution text to.
I think this is one of the reasons you don’t get WOLED phones or monitors. It’s only large TVs manufacturers get away with it for.
I hear you and I’d love to say there is some solution to this but there isn’t as far as I’m aware.
However all is not lost just like every TV there are pros and cons to them - what you gain in some areas you lose in others.
Put it this way you probably don’t mind reading text off an WOLED and basically that suffers the same issue as this shader an odd subpixel layout. However it’s still readable, ok it’s a little ‘off’ (not as good as an IPS LCD) but it’s manageable and you get lots of benefits elsewhere.
If you have the time I’d love to see a picture taken from a foot or two back of this shader on your OLED to see how bad (or good 
) the problem really is. (Use the same camera settings above if you do)
I’m not going to lie I haven’t even tried it because of the comments that it doesn’t work right on WRGB displays lol.
I’d be willing to try it though this weekend.
I will definitely post pics if I get a chance. I personally sit back on my couch 8 feet from my C1 so I don’t think I’d notice anything.
Well we do or at least did have pentile displays in AMOLED and SAMOLED phones.
1st is qn90a, 2nd is LG C1. Both have Megatron applied.
The shots I took full screen didn’t turn out as the reflections on one TV vs the other give an inaccurate viewpoint.
they both look good to me, but the subpixel stuff looks a bit rough on the qn90a, resulting in that weird repeating pattern…
I noticed that as well and I think it’s something I did. Every time you plug and replug these things it it resets all settings. It could also be the red offset is too high.
That looks better than expected, but how does OLED with this mask compare to OLED with the BW aperture? Some further experiments may be in order.
Check your sharpness setting first of all as that is weird patterning on your reds. You can dial down the red offset by changing the red vertical convergence in the shader parameters.
Oh wow will you look at the C1 OLED it doesn’t look like it’s got too many problems at all! So why aren’t we seeing the white element in the sub pixels as we were when @c9f5fdda06 did it?
Is this in SDR mode possibly and the white elements only kick in to get a certain luminance level?
In any case this is an amazing result! Thank you very much for doing this. I might even take my WOLED not supported line off! 
Yeah I suppose the difference there is that these aren’t adding an additional element which is not directly controllable. It’s just RGB or BGR offset on alternative lines so is manageable from a subpixel anti-aliasing perspective.
While we have the opportunity, maybe we should ask @BendBombBoom to take some full white close up photos using the shader (including one of the left edge) so we can really see what’s going on at the subpixel level and finally put this WOLED/WRGB matter to rest once and for all.
I’m not sure there’s very much more @BendBombBoom can show beyond the above picture: zoomed in you can see all the pixels and you can see in the highlights the white subpixels. At least my camera goes out of focus very much closer.
I’m thinking of more of a macro shot. Similar to what’s in the now famous Filthy Pants Blog article or RTINGS reviews.
The pure white might just make everything clearer. We can also probably get some variety in terms of HDR mode off vs on to see if there’s any variance in behaviour.
I’m seeing some interesting differences between the phosphor positioning in these two pictures. Compare the gap between the top of Link’s eyes as well as the Gold rectangular border around the floor/rug just below Link.
On the Samsung you can see individual Red/Orange and Yellow phosphor stripes showing differences in convergence, while on the LG these same phosphors appear to precisely vertically overlap and blend.
You can also see it in green of Link’s hat. The Samsung seems to have different convergence vs the LG.
In my opinion the LG might be closer to that “analog” roll-off/blending/glowing of the original CRT image than the Samsung.
It would be interesting to see the Sonic Waterfall comparison again using these settings on the LG C1.
Dude it looks like there is nothing wrong with the C1.
Have no tests on WRGB displays been actually performed and it was just assumed it would look wrong?
No there were pictures above that were very kindly taken by @c9f5fdda06 and added in this post above:
HOWEVER I’ve just noticed I must have miss read the post! The first shot is not of my shader it’s of ‘HSM Glass’ or something and that was the image I was basing my view that it’s a mess up close. I don’t know how I managed that - the two pictures of my shader are fine (if somewhat dated compared to current).
All this time and I’d being deriding WOLEDs based on a CRT shader blurring the hell out of the image. 
Oh well you live and learn…
I think I was thinking about the first image (which is HSM Glass not Megatron) but maybe there was an earlier one - some posts now have out of date links.
Until the image problems are ironed out in the Samsung I think most detailed comparisons are off the table sadly.
Well not to be that guy, but you can still see the white subpixel is being activated in the whites. Instead of distinct RGB phosphors in the whites you get a rainbow. The greens look all wrong. I stand by my original statement. Higher quality macro shots will reveal even more problems.
It’s not hard to understand why.
At the subpixel level, what’s happening?
RGBW
Magenta - Green:
RxBWxGxWRxBWxGxW
Look at the whites in @MajorPainTheCactus shots throughout the thread, then look at the whites in the OLED shot. There’s a pretty clear difference. If you can’t see distinct RGB phosphors in the whites, then it isn’t working right.
I know we all really want the OLED to work, but I feel like people are letting wishful thinking cloud their judgment.
Here’s the actual subpixel structure of the C1. You can see it’s not just a problem with the white subpixel- the subpixels are all kind of wonky and different shapes.
