Sony Megatron Colour Video Monitor

Yes it’s using RGBX as I find RYCB gives the wrong shape to the phosphors on a 4k screen as in they’re too fat.

I think I can help things a smidgen by doing better with the scan line curves. As you can see in the above image my scanlines are much narrower. I’ve had an idea how to get a more accurate shape to my scanlines.

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Yes that’s definitely true. An unfortunate compromise.

Yes I agree, wider maximum beam width would help, along with some color tweaks.

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Yup QD-OLED display later this year really are the way to go here I think. They hopefully will have the brightness and rgb triad to do what we want.

How much they cost is another question… Also I’ve only just bought a new monitor. :rofl::sob::rofl:

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Yes I need to put in some proper colour grading tools to my shader. First scanline curves, then colour grading, then screen curvature. Lots to do and nearly zero spare time to do it. Oh well I’m finding it lots of fun thinking about it between.

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Just a little bit of time in photoshop really closes the gap, I think:

That’s with the color temp moved to ~9300, the exposure increased until it was roughly the same brightness as the CRT shot and a tiny amount of linear motion blur on the y axis to smudge out the pixel grid.

Looking at it, I think the minimum beam width is about right and the maximum beam width is about right, but it’s the in-between that’s a little smaller than it should be. Perhaps the beam width to luminance relationship is more nonlinear than we expect?

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Great work! Thanks that’s a brilliant way to calibrate it. Right so I definitely need to add a white balance control to my shader (but can probably adjust my monitor in the mean time).

I’m using a guassian distribution for my scanlines and I need to move to a cubic bezier to get more control over it (as I’ve already done in the horizontal axis). I’ll definitely do this over the next week or so and post back the results.

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hmm, gaussian usually looks the most natural to me, so I would have figured that’d be the way to go. Have you tried doing it in linear gamma?

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9 posts were split to a new topic: OLED subpixels. How do they work?

Yes I forgot about that and it’s also something I’ve been meaning to do! Put this all into linear space by sandwiching it in between the inverse tonemapper and hdr10 shaders. I’ll try that first and see where it gets us.

However I’m not sure a Gaussian has the steep falloff we need, I’m not sure a 1D cubic bezier has either but it might be better as we can control it more.

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Hello, where I can download the shader?

Thanks in advance.

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It’s included with the latest release in the

\RetroArch-Win64\shaders\shaders_slang\hdr\

folder

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Thanks. I found it. The Blog post of the release says crt\crt-sony-pvm-4k-hdr.slangp not HDR folder.

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I’d try the 2730 preset found in that folder. This shader is in active development, the next version should be a relatively big upgrade as can be seen in the more recent pictures just above.

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I’d love to try this out. I made a cabinet a while back and the display happens to support HDR but I have not used that feature. And I lucked out and my graphics card should support HDR as well.

However, I am running Windows 7 on it… I assume updating to 10 or 11 is a must, right?

And is Vulkan HDR supported in the most recent RA release? I found the HDR shaders there.

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yeah, Win10, and it needs a fairly recent version, IIRC. And yes, vulkan HDR is in the latest RA.

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Worked perfectly. Always nervous about Windows, but it switched over without a hitch and the TV is confirming it is receiving HDR signal. Now I have to do some fine tuning…

EDIT: Re-reading the entire thread… looks like more is in the works for this shader. I am just happy I have everything set up so I can use HDR shaders as they become available.

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Yes, this is pretty cool for that reason. I always thought it was funny I needed a high-end rig to get Donkey Kong to look just like I want it to, even though I could probably run Donkey Kong without shaders on a Pi Zero.

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Fixed another major colour bug - note all the red and blue has gone out of Links green tunic from the previous picture! This was causing some major colour issues across the board and gives me a firmer foundation to work from.

What exactly caused the bug I’m not sure as I’ve done some major refactoring of this shader. I’ve made it a single pass now which simplifies things and makes it a lot faster with fewer passes and fewer far fewer loads and stores.

So I’ve obviously still got a large problem with my curves in the vertical direction - I’m currently working on this once fixed I’m hoping it will have the added benefit of brightening up the image. As you can see in the blue in the background those scanlines are a lot wider in the CRT than my shader and therefore outputting a lot more luminance.

One thing to note is the black of Links eyes - this is interesting as it appears I’ve swapped around the look of the eyes as in the left is wider and the right is narrower. This I’m guessing at the moment is due to the slight differences in TVL 600 vs 540.

Anyway on we march and on we progress!

OnePlus 8 Pro Camera: Pro Mode, ISO 100, WB 3510K, Aperture Speed 1/60, about 10cm from the screen, 48MPixel JPEG.

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So this shader should be less about the performance of your graphics card and much much more about the performance of your display. Really it needs a 4K DisplayHDR700 LED display (W-OLEDs have a an quad pixel layout and so probably wont match up well with the mask).

As you’ve spotted the shader on GitHub (the one you’re using) is quite old now and I’m hoping to replace it over the next few weeks (possibly this weekend with a prevailing wind and a bit of free time) with my latest and greatest which should be ALOT more accurate, altough possibly a bit darker.

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Looks fantastic!

I wonder if a brighter display will make the emulated phosphors bloom more, to look more like what you see on the PVM.

I think the type of display we’re using is going to matter a lot, here. Ideally, on a digital display we want per-pixel local dimming, but for our purposes here we actually want the pixels to bleed light. I think even a FALD display should still bleed enough, so it’s probably just a lack of brightness that’s keeping the LCD from blooming like the CRT. I think I read somewhere that CRTs actually reach a peak of like 10,000 nits, but only for an extremely brief period, and then it drops to 100.

How does it look in person? Is there a significant brightness difference?

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