Have you set your OLED Light setting to between 95 and 100?
Also, have you set your Power Saving to Minimum or Off?
What about your Gamma settings?
If you wanted to get adventurous you can further tweak your TV by using LG TV Companion and ColorControl.
I’ve done everything lol. All power settings off, I even turned DTM back on because it brightens the display. I have not tried LG companion.
I was going to try guests shader as a second pass, turn off its scanlines and mask and use it to try to brighten/bloom the picture up since it really whitens whites, etc.
Is this too fat/big/low res?
CRT-Guest-Advanced - Slot Mask - BGR Layout
I find it a bit strange that you can’t get things bright enough when other OLED TV users seemed to have had success. I know that things like “bright enough” are highly subjective but do you mind sharing some photos of your screen also showing the “most convincing” Slot Mask so that others might better able to understand what you’re describing and experiencing?
Also, are you using the latest version of Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor? What preset/TVL/Layout are you using? Are you using the new OLED layout?
The last time I tested it, there was a bug and I haven’t tested it since?
If you feel like you want to go down the CRT-Guest-Advanced route, I have a number of presets that are optimized for OLED TVs’ unique subpixel structure in my shader preset pack which you can use as a guide or starting point.
The thing I’d say about that photo is that there are a lot of pixels on that should be off as in should be pitch black and that’s what a lot of people (including myself which is kind of why I did my own shader) see as fat/blurry etc phosphors. It gives a funny look to the image that you dont see on an actual CRT. Having said that its easy to turn them off in the Guest shader - isn’t it something like 100% mask opacity? But then you get back to the issue that its all too dark again in SDR/low brightness TV’s and around we go.
@trnzaddict I’m pretty sure your TV should get bright enough - are you using HDR at all? As in, in Windows HDR is enabled and in RA HDR is enabled and you’re using the HDR presets?
Not directly but HDR (because of its brightness) allows us to have 100% black masks i.e properly turn pixels off and its this that gives the convincing masks. Basically you need bright OLEDs/LCDs to mimic CRT’s (which are very bright for the split second the scan beam head excites the phosphor). Your TV should be capable of this brightness from what I can gather from others.
I will take pics tonight. Something clearly is not right with the my settings then because the way you’re making it sound is getting the slot mask to look just like Megatron’s should easily be plausible in Guest or your presets. I tried your ultimate slot mask presets and they do NOT look anything like the pics you’ve shown in your thread.
Major’s slot mask is the only mask I’ve seen on my C1 that look exactly like my Sanyo Vizzon CRT in my game room. But it could be my settings again are wrong with other shaders. I don’t nearly have the same amount of time to tweak settings as I used to.
Also yes - compared to the brightness I get from Guest Megatron is dark in comparison - too dark for it not to bother me and that’s without BFI either. The colors are lifeless.
This is strange but you can post some pics as well as general descriptions in my thread concerning this since I won’t want to stray too much off topic.
All of the pics I’ve posted look fine on my TVs as well as on my phone when I’m viewing the forum. Someone even posted some videos on YouTube using my presets and the colours seem pretty decent. I’m not doing anything exotic with white balance or anything like that in my presets.
Do remember that there is “Ultimate Virtual Slot Mask CRT-1PT2RTA” as well as new “IV OLED” TV versions. All of the “IV OLED” TV Presets have mask settings that would fit properly on my 2016 OLED TV.
Even @nfp0 uses similar mask settings on their OLED TVs.
Photos might definitely give some insight as to what’s happening. I might also post my TV settings when I get a chance.
If the colours are lifeless this does sound like you’re using the HDR preset with a non HDR setup i.e it’s not enabled in Windows or something. It might be the other way round also: SDR preset used with a HDR setup.
Greetings @MajorPainTheCactus, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but something seems amiss in the new OLED Mask Layout.
I noticed it when I tried the 8K, 600TVL Mask before you made your adjustments but I thought I’d wait until you updated and tested before saying anything.
So I tested the 4K, 300TVL using the Sony PVM 1910 HDR preset and these are my results.
Another CRT Shader in RRBBGGX mode
Old modified version of Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor in RRBBGGX mode:
Unfortunately I don’t have access to the old version of Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor to retest old version with my modifications. That one seemed to work as it should though.
Is it possible for me to get a copy of it somehow in order to retest with my modified RRBBGGX settings?
Okay, so I reverted the parameters.h, crt-sony-megatron-source-pass.slang and crt-sony-megatron.slang from the source and this is what I’m getting:
It looked the same when I applied my modified RRBBGGX settings.
This is a mystery because, I’m 100% certain of my results from 9 days ago and even @Wilch’s modified Shader pics showed the twin blue, green and red columns. Also it’s not far fetched to think that this is something achievable because it has already been achieved in CRT-Guest-Advance. We shouldn’t have to reinvent the wheel just to get the same thing happening in Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor.
Now I’m wishing I had backed up my shaders before updating but it could be something else at play here.
I’m going to try some other presets and see if that makes a difference although it shouldn’t.
In the meantime @Wilch, do you mind retaking that same photo using the new Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor OLED Layout? Be sure to backup your shader folder before updating.
This what I’m talking about….this is the most correctly looking slot mask preset I’ve ever seen on my oled.
I cannot get any other shader to display a slot mask like this.
This is guests slot mask, I cannot get it looking right at all. Slot mask width, height etc. does not change the mask at all.
As I mentioned, you can use my presets as a guide. I have different slot mask presets with different dimensions. I use HSM Mega Bezel Reflection Shader which integrates both CRT-Guest-Advanced and Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor. Maybe you need to delete your old shaders before updating.
Right great stuff so this is the same issue that @Wilch was seeing.
So stupid question first: have you selected the RWBG (OLED) mode in the shader parameters?
It seems like a mask selection bug as the mask and code are identical to when you changed it and as you’ve got correct results then that would say its not some fundamental problem with the shader.
If you can do me a favour (as I haven’t a OLED here) can you make a similar edit to the new version to what you did before with the old version and just see if you can get the correct mask locally? Slap RRBBGGX over all the values. You’re looking for kApertureGrilleMasks4K300TVL line 265 in the new code - just make all the values the same. Also could you try the 2730QM preset?
In the mean time, I’ll take a look my end and see if I can spot the bug. Thanks for looking at this and verifying it - greatly appreciated.
I’ll go through your presets tonight and see if I could get what I’m after.
If I could get how crystal clear Megatron’s slot mask looks combined with the brightness/glow and scanline tweaking of guest’s shader I’d be happy as a pig in sh*t.
Just to say I cant see anything particularly obvious - I’ll try running it on my LCD tonight and see if I can get the expected layout you would get if you used the OLED mask on an LCD.
Those two things are mutually exclusive I’m afraid: you can’t turn on extra sub pixels (which is what brightens the image) by using glow/blurs etc and have a crystal clear mask, as a crystal clear mask requires those sub pixels to be turned off completely. This is why I introduced HDR into the mix so you can get the brightness out of the sub-pixels you do have on without turning on extra ones that shouldnt be on.
Are you definitely sure some of your OLED TV’s settings haven’t changed in between? You haven’t moved into/out of ‘game mode’ or something like that?
EDIT: is that second picture of Guest Advanced taken in the same session as in you just swapped over to it and took a photo of that too? If that is the case then this is all very strange and its time for my thinking cap.
EDIT 2: if you use the SDR preset and turn off HDR in Windows and RA does it go away?
Different masks have different affecting parameters. I believe you’re using one of the Lottes masks in your picture which are not affected by slotmask parameters.
Refer to Guest’s thread for help on that and some example presets. Also, refer to @Cyber’s presets.
Yes, I’m absolutely sure. As a matter of fact, I get 3 different results with the new Shader when I switch among the 3 layouts. The new OLED RWBG is the only one that shows the correct twin red, blue and green columns of subpixels however, what seems to be different here is that there seems to be a large area of red behind the other colours. I know, that’s a very simplistic description.
It’s very strange that I can’t get the BBGGRRX Mask to switch to RRGGBBX mask when I tried to revert to the old version even after editing the shader. It doesn’t crash, it loads but it looks the same as BBGGRRX. I can’t even get it to look like the OLED RWBG setting in the new one. I’ve taken tens of pictures. I will definitely have to try again.
It’s as if the new shader is cached somewhere or being recompiled and it’s ignoring my changes or there could be some mismatch between the new files and the old files that’s affecting the pattern. Basically the pattern I’m seeing when I try to get things back to the way they were when I used the old shader matches the BBGGRRX pattern in both the new and old shaders.
Yes, that is a fresh picture from CRT-Guest-Advanced.
Don’t pull your hair out over it, there must be a logical explanation. I’m just making you aware of what’s going on. It could just be the additional brightness due to HDR or colour settings of the preset is causing that extra red to be in the background. At least it’s not the same as before with “phosphors” with missing, misaligned or overlapping columns. There just seems to be too much Red radiating behind the other colours.
If you could direct me to how to properly get back to how the package was before you added 1080p support, that might assist in my testing.
No it’s still there but you can actually see things a little clearer in the photo in SDR mode.
The TV settings haven’t changed but when I was testing the old preset, I had a number of issues with handshaking when switching between the default loaded HSM Mega Bezel Reflection Shader Preset and the Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor Preset. Sometimes when I switched to HDR Mode, I got a black screen. It wasn’t smooth at all trying to get things to work. When I finally did, I found the HDR Mode in both RetroArch and the Shader to look a little dull compared to when I switched HDR Off in the Shader and left it on in RetroArch. I think my pictures where it looked the best was with HDR On in RetroArch and Off I’m the Shader Parameters.
Also, I couldn’t remember exactly which Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor preset I used when I got thing to look right using the old version.
None of these issues with handshaking or black screens are occurring in my testing now. I think it could be due to the order in which I’m doing things.
Having HDR On in Windows before loading RetroArch or trying to turn on HDR in RetroArch while running HSM Mega Bezel Reflection Shader might have been contributing to those issues.
What I do now, is leave Windows HDR Off, Load RetroArch, my MegaBezel preset auto loads. Load the Megatron HDR Preset, Turn On HDR in RetroArch.
This works everytime.
In the correct looking picture, I probably had left on my Blargg NTSC filter but in my most recent pictures, I remembered to turn it off before taking them. That doesn’t seem to make a difference when it comes to those extra Red subpixels though.
This should be the version just before the latest changes.
I never got to get this to look any good on my LG C9. Instructions were to turn off HDR in RetroArch and use the Shader but that doesn’t change the display mode from SDR to HDR… I give up, sorry.
