Hi sorry it hasn’t been merged yet so you’ll have to wait but yes when that pull request is merged it should be identical.
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Altered the sharpness of the shader to be better match my PVM 2730 so should be a slightly better picture.
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Sorry for the confusion! By “pixel grid” I’m referring to the LCD pixel grid.
At 1080p it’s very difficult to take a completely convincing photo because if you zoom in enough to see the emulated RGB phosphors, the LCD pixel grid becomes visible (sometimes called screen door effect). You can somewhat hide this by blurring the camera slightly but it’s very difficult to completely hide the LCD pixel grid while keeping the RGB phosphors distinct.
I’m wondering if 4K resolution is enough to solve this issue, plus I just wanna see some shots of the shader working at that distance. 
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In response to an earlier comment: some time ago there was an image in this forum somewhere demonstrating that a small BVM = medium PVM = large Wega, in terms of scanline shape and darkness.
In other words a 9” BVM has the same scanlines as a 32” Wega, etc.
so, yes, screen size is a definitely a factor
“PVM” has just kinda become shorthand for “well-defined scanlines”
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I just downloaded today’s nightly (2022-01-07 10AM) and couldn’t get Vulkan HDR to work. Thoughts?
Thanks for working on this, btw! 
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I followed these suggestions and WOW! what a difference. I can now see the appeal of using an HDR-based shader. Everything has this underglow to it, like you would see on a CRT. Also the weird line is gone, thank you for the fix!
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@Arviel Thanks for the photos it’s greatly appreciated!
Your display is a LG CX right? I’d love to see that in person - I’m currently trying to make up my mind what TV to get a LG C2, Sony A95 (QD OLED) or Samsung QN900B (8K) or QN95.
Im thinking an OLED maybe too good though as on a CRT you do see a fairly large natural bloom around bright areas like you see on QLEDs (incorrectly). QNEDs also go brighter to support higher end PVMs (as in narrower scanlines)
Also the slow response time of an LCD I’m thinking is more like the phosphors of a CRT as in they aren’t instantly on or off like an OLED is.
What are your thoughts? I know OLEDs are the superior technology for gaming etc but possibly not for retro gaming purposes? I don’t know - I’d love to hear from someone with experience of them.
I also today slightly updated the shader if you get want to get latest.
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I’d say the LG CX is the best purchased I’ve ever made as far as gaming goes (besides a PC). The picture quality of OLEDs truly is something else, specially in HDR which can be ridiculously bright as I alluded to before. OLEDs also have basically no ghosting due to the fantastic response times. Typical LCD monitor don’t come close. Shaders of course look great, the scanlines are truly black.
The biggest con to OLEDs is the size. Mine is 48 inches and I had to buy a separate mount stand so I could sit far back enough to be comfortable.
The C2 might be perfect for you as it comes in a smaller size of 42 inches. If I didn’t already own a CX I would have bought the smaller C2.
Here is a recording of Mega Bezel shader on my CX. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
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If you look up enough vids online, there’s no denying that OLED is king – especially now with HDR. I’m doing HDR + Black frame insertion and have reasonably bright picture quality.
this is with crt-royale-kurozumi.slangp and HDR + Black Frame insertion. About as bright as SDR without BFI!
(@MajorPainTheCactus I hope you don’t mind me posting this here; it feels like this is the HDR thread now 
)
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Hi @nesguy firstly loved reading your investigations someone above posted.
Yes so I definitely don’t think you can see the LCD pixel grid but that’s mainly because I’m using a 27inch 4K display. When you are sitting at the right distance from it you also can’t see the RGB pattern either - just like you would with an actual CRT - it behaves just like a CRT in other words.
I tried taking a picture from that distance but I’m not sure it really shows what you are looking for as it’s lost a lot of detail due to clipping. I’ll post it here when I get a chance.
Legend of Zelda at about 3-4 feet away I’d argue looks better than my actual CRTs due to the colour repro and high brightness BUT keeping that softer CRT look.
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I don’t want to get too far off topic but being that We’re talking about OLED - I myself finally purchased a 65 inch C1 coming from a Panny plasma and it really is the best modern TV for gaming AND the best purchase for gaming in general I’ve ever made as well.
The blacks are perfect, the input lag is on par with my CRT, the motion is perfect and the picture is just…something I’ve never experienced before in a living room TV. The blacks are so black when I play 4:3 stuff it’s like the image floats in the middle of the TV. I don’t even want bezels on the side to be honest because it looks like the TV is off on the left and right. I know there a lot of hate on them from owners of QLED TV’s saying that the brightness is not good but I’ll tell you - last night was the first time I gamed on it and HDR was literally frying my eyes so bad I had trouble sleeping due to the blue light. In the day time too it’s plenty bright so yea - they are really a great piece of tech.
If I had one complaint, it’s that the TV is so in-depth with how many options it has if you’re coming from a simpleton TV like I did it could be rather daunting without watching some YouTube videos.
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heh, yeah, my friend has a 65" OLED and it’s unpleasantly bright on a white screen, even with the light boost thingie turned down to ‘low’.
For taking pictures, it might help to hold a piece of typing/copy paper in the shot to white-balance against and/or focus your camera on. That might take some of the variability out of it.
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That is a really good idea! I’ll have a try and post what I see.
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@MajorPainTheCactus I’m sure you got a notification about this already, but your Vulkan HDR support was merged a couple of hours ago, Congratulations! And thanks for adding this great feature. 
So that should mean it will show up in the next nightly.
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Ah wonderful news - I hadn’t seen that - thanks for letting me know!
It’s one very small step but I’m looking forward to seeing where this type of thing takes us all.
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Firstly, yes HDR works with Vulkan now – awesome!
However, @HyperspaceMadness your shader looks washed out for some reason. It’s as if the gamma were at 1.0 or something. That said, at least it loads. I can’t say I know how to troubleshoot this, though 
All of your presets exhibit the same low contrast. If I use other shaders, I get the expected result. I tried to take a picture but my phone’s auto contrast doesn’t accurately show what I’m seeing. 
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Yeah I’m going to have to play with it to see what is happening, so that it can work as expected.
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The Vulkan HDR doesn’t work with my LG C1 OLED, RetroArch goes all black. (It engages HDR mode)
Obs.: HDR Enabled in Windows 11 and RetroArch.
Obs²: It works on DX12 and 11.
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