just to be pedantic, the scanlines are the lines of content. The black lines are the gaps between the scanlines. 
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Hmm from your description Im not exactly sure what youre after. As @hunterk says the scanlines are the light lines not the dark gaps in between BUT TVL should have nothing to do the spacing between scanlines (in this shader that is). As @crtJoe says reducing all the vertical min max values down to zero should give your largest dark gaps. Can you take a photo on your phone of the screen and what it looks like and post it here (you can take a screenshot of the photo to fit into the max post size). Thanks - hopefully we can get to the bottom of this
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The black lines between the scanlines are what I’m after. That’s what I want to be more noticeable without introducing color artifacts by changing the min/max of each RGB beam in the shader parameters and also the loss of sharpness in the subpixel aperture grille mask. At 1000TVL, the black scanlines are indeed thicker, but the aperture grille subpixel structure looses it’s sharpness, unless I get inches from the screen.
Sure, maybe you can tell me if the results I’m getting is normal, or if I’m just nickpicking. Here’s some images I captured from RetroArch. Just right click and open in new tab to see a larger image.
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Here’s a link to images I captured with my phone. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zY30BMswAqUVbqEtr5gjw6fRf5HJhJWz?usp=sharing
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I cant see a huge amount of difference between those images with regards to the scanline width. The biggest difference is that the whole image gets brighter with higher TVL which is expected (as the mask is switching on more sub pixels).
You should definitely be able to get far wider gaps in between the scanlines by lowering the min and max values of the vertical parameters of the scanlines for red, green and blue.
This will envitably come at the cost of lower overall brightness something you can only get over by having a brighter TV. Essentially brightness of your tv is everything with this shader.
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OK! I figured out why I wasn’t getting the results I wanted! When I load the shaders, the parameters aren’t actually at their default values. I only got the desired results after applying the Min/Max RGB default values by pressing “Start” on my controller for each value and adjusting the Min/Max parameter. The black lines of the scanlines are much thicker now.
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Ah brilliant - I did wonder what was going on. Fantastic you got what you wanted. 
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Thanks! And the colors look normal now too! Also, that makes me wonder why the shader parameters weren’t at their default settings? Because the values of the Min/Max did change when I clicked the “reset to defaults”. The color temperture is less blue now.
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Im not sure whats happening as its just standard RetroArch stuff. Definitely make your menu transparent and you can see your changes in realtime.
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Or adjust settings in windowed mode, adjust the window to fullscreen, and have a second monitor for the desktop menu
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Understandable; hope things are going well for you
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@Cyber We need to have a display shoot-out with your OLED vs @MajorPainTheCactus’s QD-OLED, using the same shader settings and the same scenes. What do you guys think?
Side note: I can’t believe it’s been over a year since this thread was started, I hate time.
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Against my very old 7+ year old OLED TV? The thing is, I don’t use Megatron that often as I really enjoy playing around with my shader preset pack. Then I’d probably have to max out my brightness and disable power management on my TV if I’m to get it as bright as possible based on Megatron’s instructions.
These days, I’m extremely lazy and casual when it comes to these things, don’t really want to adjust my set too much and I hardly have much time to spend on shader preset experimentation far less playing games. I’ve never really spent enough time using Sony Megatron Colour Video Monitor to get settings that I was 100% satisfied with. One thing that used to happen to me is that when I was satisfied with the colour, I used to see what appeared to be uneven scanlines in my limited testing with Shadow of the Beast - Turbo Grafx16.
Also only certain presets looked correct to me. I hope this isn’t taken as criticism in any way of the shader as I’m sure it probably has to do with my setup.
Plus, remember I’m a Mega Bezelite so there’s that as well. Although there’s Megatron now available for HSM Mega Bezel Reflection Shader, I’m not sure if HDR is enabled yet for it.
That doesn’t mean I won’t run some tests for the sake of science though.
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Oh, for some reason I thought you had a C2 or something more recent.
Well, that settles it. @MajorPainTheCactus is just going to have to buy a C2 now. I’m sure his wife won’t mind if he dips into the kids’ college fund a bit, right?
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College fund? Shoe fund more like - theyd be lucky to get me paying for college when I have CRTs to buy.
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my CRTs are the college fund. diamondtron diamond hands
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I have a C2, but it’s the 42 inch version which is around 700nits, so no brighter than my 6 year old 55 inch C6. Happy to compare to the qd-oled though
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When you say 700 nits how is that being measured?
Is there a big difference in brightness between different screen sizes of the same model? I think @MajorPainTheCactus has the 65” S95B.
QD OLED doesn’t seem to be the LG OLED killer that we were promised. From what I’ve been reading, seems like it’s a little brighter and also has barely worse black levels, so it’s a bit of a wash, but I’ve also been reading that QD-OLED has somewhat higher risk of burn-in, which is definitely a concern if you’re going to be displaying mask and scanline patterns for extended gaming sessions.
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Displayninja.com rates it at 700 nits, but apparently it’s dimmer in pc mode so I’m not actually sure. There’s quite a bit of difference in brightness between sizes
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In what way were you reading the black levels were worse, in that it doesn’t show true black as well or something else?
Pure blacks as far as I’m aware should be about the same unless there is sufficient ambient light in the room to tint the colour a bit on the S95b
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