When NTSC filter is mandatory?

That’s the better signal so it made sense. Back in the day only arcades and expensive computers like the Amiga used RGB. And it looked godly on that Commodore monitors (high TVL Philips or Daewoo actually).

1084-SP for Philips and 1084-SD for Daewoo. Had the SP and S I think stands for stereo

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To be honest, what I do is just use a preset that already has an NTSC filter included. I never had the curiosity to change the filter parameters.

NTSC is definitely mandatory as an available option for emulation, but ultimately you trade clarity for certain effects/smoothing. I would say this comes mostly down to taste, except in the cases where you don’t have any color at all, but this isn’t relevant for any mainstream console, only some computers, and then only certain games.

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Recently I bought three CRTs (one PC monitor 17" and two Sony Wega 21"). The brightness and motion on CRTs are amazingly superior to LCDs, even those with 120Hz+ and BFI (I have one too). And with current LCDs you can’t tap that. They only compare using still pictures. The magic happens in motion and CRTs are much better on that aspect and makes the retrogames more enjoyable to play. The motion is so good and smooth that you get the 3D illusion (or depth illusion) created by Genesis multiplanes scrolling in many games.

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To get back on topic, let’s take the Zx spectrum as an example. That system never ever had RGB. I think Composite at best IF modded. So the image you get from the emulator is very far away from what you would actually see on a CRT. So some kind of composite-like filter is mandatory as most games would draw graphics to take advantage of artifacts to blend pixels. That’s at least one system you got to use such a filter.

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The original Spectrum didn’t have it, but the later models had RGB. Probably other examples like this, off the top of my head, the NES didn’t even have composite initially either. There was no official RGB cable available for the SNES during it’s lifetime in the west I think etc.

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We didn’t even get component video on a home console until PS2. S-video was the best option for everything after NES.

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Guys, could you suggest which NTSC filter you usually use?

RGB situation for computers was different ofc, but apparenty, the RGB output capability is still there for most NTSC-U consoles. So if you would gain somehow knowledge of this back in the day, you could get at least a consumer RGB monitor, problem then how to properly connect it…Today, you’d just order your cables over the internet :grin:

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I think @guest.r’ shaders have the most advanced NTSC features and keep evolving over time. You can’t go wrong tweaking them.

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You can take a look at these:

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Thanks for the advice, I’ll definitely check out the new ntsc filter package. There are no problems in most cores, but I’m looking for something interesting for MAME / Final Burn Neo.

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The redundant question, “a shader that looks like an original tv”, you know that each brand looks different and each model of the same brand looks different. A Phillips slotmask TV looks different from an LG slotmask, and an LG aperture looks different from a Sony Trinitron aperture.

Here in the forum there are threads dedicated to seeing what a physical CRT looks like, I’m sure most people who do shader compare it to a physical CRT.

A footnote:
NTSC is a standard that defines frequency, color, size, audio ratio and other things. Content produced with that standard looks perfect. What produces the distortion is the CRT.

I don’t recall seeing plotting pronounced until the advent of PSX + TV Trinitron.

The monitors incorporated the ‘vertical sync’ function and it swept the screening, also the mask disappears, well adjusted it looks awesome, I have seen something similar in some shaders, tvout-jinc has it and…


Gentleman @kokoko3k , your monitor shaders need this :point_up:t2: :grimacing:

And the arcades looked horrible, cheap monitors, they were constantly misaligned and damaged. Maybe that’s what people are looking for, how ugly the TV’s looked, blurred, darkened all or one corner, opaque or rolled colors, signal failure. this is a recurring theme and I’ve even read, “that it looks original as it did in the magazine”. :flushed:

But let’s not lose the ability to be surprised. No one has asked for a shader with a magnetized screen. :speak_no_evil:
image

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Wow! that was shocking! :grin:

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I’m not sure of what should I pay attention to in the screenshot, to start with :slight_smile:

OFF-TOPIC: I quicly drafted thick scanlines with deep gaps

DO_CCORRECTION = "1.000000"
IN_GLOW_POWER = "1.300000"
TEMPERATURE = "6600.000000"
IN_GLOW_GAMMA = "2.200000"
GAMMA_OUT = "0.490000"

DO_FXAA = "1.000000"

DO_IN_GLOW = "1.000000"
IN_GLOW_W = "-0.700000"
IN_GLOW_H = "7.000000"

DO_PIXELGRID = "1.000000"

DO_PIXELGRID_W = "0.000000"

DO_PIXELGRID_H = "1.250000"
PIXELGRID_MIN_H = "0.800000"
PIXELGRID_MAX_H = "0.800000"
PIXELGRID_GAMMA_H = "8.000000"

PIXELGRID_Y_MASK = "0.0"

DO_HALO = "0.0"     

DO_BLOOM = "0.000000"

DO_CURVATURE = "1.000000"
GEOM_CORNER_SMOOTH = "400.000000"

DO_BEZEL = "1.000000"
BEZEL_INNER_ZOOM = "-0.015000"
BEZEL_FRAME_ZOOM = "0.170000"
BEZEL_R = "-0.190000"
BEZEL_G = "-0.190000"
BEZEL_B = "-0.190000"
BEZEL_CON = "2.180000"

DO_VIGNETTE = "1.000000"
V_SIZE = "1.080000"

DO_SPOT = "1.000000"
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if i’m not wrong too, some people used to say back in those years, when things such as big crt tvs begin to release, had poor quality image compared to smaller around 20 to 30 inches tvs, this is because of deconvergence and geometry issues which happen to cause some weird pixelation and non aligned linear image, this is not the case in all sets as some tvs even before the big size sets had some sharpening of the composite image, we obviously we don’t have to deal these days with geometry and decovergence issues that much, except for things such as slot shadow mask and curvature, which requires a 4k tv to be replicated correctly, also we gotta consider that over things such as the neo geo cd you can indeed have an arcade game with composite

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It wasn’t the lines, sorry for the confusion. :man_facepalming:t2:
The scanlines of your shaders are perfect.

It’s the dithering and how it looked on the monitors. The dithering was not completely removed, but it remained as a dirty/textured color.

The monitors had options to adjust, but I think I’m confusing the names. Moire, Jitter, Convergence, I have to try it when I have a monitor handy.
The tvout-jinc shader (with or without scanline) has an option that does something very similar, seems to sweep the pixels.

Captura de pantalla de 2023-11-22 14-56-00

Pure handles too many types of video (even RF), having these controls to handle dithering/blur can be a very good thing. If you have it, I didn’t get it, ignore this. :pray:t2:

The bigger the monitor, the blurrier it looked, but it had to be seen from far, far away.

I partly understand the claim of people “as they looked before” I grew up connecting the console by the antenna cable and in arcade with decaying monitors.

I’ve even seen “important people” making shader comparisons on a real monitor, using DOSBox on Windows with a 1280x1024 resolution, when the game is for DOS at 320x200. Obviously you can see the dithering. Actually it looked more like this.

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Hey @alexb3d, could you please post the preset/filter combination you used on these images?

Expanding the topic.

We (myself included) don’t always use the term NTSC in a proper way. What really makes the difference is the quality of the cable. We always talk about NTSC, but we should talk about RF, Composite, S-Video. We just put those under the NTSC “umbrella”, but improperly. I mean, PAL games had dithering, too.

RF, Composite, S-Video and RGB produce different effects because the cables are different, in how many different channels they bring. For example, the dithering happens not because of NTSC, and only partially because of the TV: it happens because of the resolution and the colour bleed of the cable.

I always use this image to explain it.

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It is the one I had commented, “preset/tvout+interlacing/tvout-jinc-sharpen+interlacing” with the predefined settings, press the space key to select the default value.

The only value I customize is the first one, ‘TVOut Signal Resolution’ to 640.00 VGA monitor type.

It is normal to refer to it informally, it was just an informative note, if someone does not know it.

The cable is undoubtedly what most influences, and the mask but there are other physical elements somewhat ignored, the TVL (just published a good post), the ‘thickness’ of the mask, the power supply, the quality of the components is something that should be elementary. Sony is not the same as Chony. :man_shrugging:

Years ago I bought online a new CRT, Kia (?) brand, what a horrible shit, it looks worse than a Disney videoclub in Betamax.

Post data. We usually ignore PAL, which is nothing but half the world, the chart would be missing scart (euroconnector) which, I understand, is different.

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