Tanks a lot @Cyber. Im gonna look that!
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Retroarch doesn’t take screnshot in HDR mode?
I have black screen shots ! 
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Is there a way to apply a curved screen effect with these shaders?
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i wanna know something, every single config, has already gave me a pink tint over all the image with megatron, i wanna know why?
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That would actually be fantastic, I tried as well utilizing other shaders but it ended up messing up the overall look.
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Maybe you can try this method instead:
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For anyone having trouble using LG OLED panels, specifically in regards to brightness, I figured out the optimal settings to get a very bright and vivid picture even with black frame insertion on.
Windows 11: Turn on HDR and Auto HDR. I also like to use the SDR-HDR slider and crank it to the max but this is not necessary, I just like using windows in HDR. Make sure to calibrate using the windows HDR calibration app.
Retroarch: Driver: Vulkan (VERY important, if you have it set to GL then HDR won’t work. D3D12 also works but not on all cores (for example can’t use GlideN64 with D3D12). Video: Integer scaling on. I also like to use integer scale overscale, as this makes the picture bigger without sacrificing much of the image. And obviously HDR ON.
Shader settings (I like the Megatron default shader) Paper white: 800 (by default, this is set to 200. This was what had the biggest effect on brightness for me) Peak brightness: 800 —I have an LG C1. If you have a newer panel you can probably set both of those numbers to 1000 or higher, based off the the maxCLL for your panel which you can find on multiple websites such as RTrings— Under CRT settings I bring down saturation, brightness, and contrast to 0 (if not already done so by default) Sub pixel layout: WRGB. Gamma: adjust to taste (I like 2.4). You can also play around with TVL and beam size settings.
That fixed the brightness for me, and actually the picture is very bright even in a decently lit room.
LG OLED settings: Especially If you’re interested in better motion clarity. For black frame insertion you can either use retroarch internal BFI under latency settings, or you can use OLED motion pro. It doesn’t really matter what picture mode you’re in as long as you have peak brightness set to maximum. I leave brightness (black level) at 50, and for temperature I set it to warm50. Dynamic tone mapping: On (in most settings this is brighter, sometimes HGiG looks better, you can play around with this and see what you like better)
Hope this helps anyone else! This shader is so good, especially with BFI, that I find I really don’t have to use my RGB modded trinitrons any longer as especially from afar I really can’t tell a difference/they are really close.
If anyone figures out how to append a curved CRT effect to the shader, let me know.
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Wow! What a profound post! I think you might find this interesting:
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Mupen64 currently does not support vulkan. Does this mean there’s no way to use this shader in HDR mode for N64? Love the shader btw. Works great with every other console I’ve tried.
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Under core options for mupen64 plus, replace GlideN64 with Parallel-RDP. You should then be able to use Vulkan.
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From the first post.
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thx I’ll give these a shot when I’m able
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This shader is great, but I’m having some problems configuring it.
Maybe I’m wrong, but is it normal that when using Shadow Mask with a 1000 TLV, color bleeds appear in the image?
Attached is a screenshot of Super Bomberman 3, in the top bar where it should look green, it has red stripes.
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You mean “magenta” or “pink / rose” tint, right?
This is a Problem others and me have mentioned before. I hope there will be a solution in the future for this, as the shader is just awesome beside this annoying color shift.
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Try using the neutral preset from the ReShade version of Megatron as a starting point:
(shaders\shaders_slang\hdr\crt-sony-megatron-neutral-settings.slangp)
#reference "shaders/crt-sony-megatron-hdr.slangp"
hcrt_crt_screen_type = "0.000000"
hcrt_colour_system = "0.000000"
hcrt_contrast = "0.000000"
hcrt_brightness = "0.000000"
hcrt_saturation = "0.000000"
hcrt_gamma_in = "2.220000"
hcrt_expand_gamut = "0.000000"
hcrt_red_scanline_min = "0.500000"
hcrt_red_scanline_max = "1.000000"
hcrt_red_scanline_attack = "0.200000"
hcrt_green_scanline_min = "0.500000"
hcrt_green_scanline_max = "1.000000"
hcrt_green_scanline_attack = "0.200000"
hcrt_blue_scanline_min = "0.500000"
hcrt_blue_scanline_max = "1.000000"
hcrt_blue_scanline_attack = "0.200000"
hcrt_red_beam_sharpness = "1.750000"
hcrt_red_beam_attack = "0.500000"
hcrt_green_beam_sharpness = "1.750000"
hcrt_green_beam_attack = "0.500000"
hcrt_blue_beam_sharpness = "1.750000"
hcrt_blue_beam_attack = "0.500000"
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I have tried several configurations of the same shader and generally with TLV300 I have absolutely no problems.
The thing is that raising the TLV to 600, 800 or 1000 generates those annoying magenta lines, which are much more noticeable on single-color backgrounds.
My monitor is an Aorus FV43U 4k.
Attached is an image of how the lines appear when changing the TLV.
PD: Sorry for the quality of the shots, I took them with an iPhone 8.
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I’m using the neutral preset from Reshade all the time, but it’s still an issue. Do you have any other idea?
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Ideally you want to get close with eyes to the screen of yours, and once you set the resolution, for aperture grill you want to set the tvl to the one where you can still see the black lines between the phosphors or pixels.
At 28 inch 4k if i set it to 600 tvl is great, 800 for me is already on the edge and 1000 tvl impossible. But they indeed work better for slotmask for instance, so 1000 slotmask for arcades work great.
Shadowmask instead can be nicer at lower tvls, like 300 but yeah that’s your fit in the end.
Depends which crt in particular are you trying to emulate.
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It’s because TVL doesn’t care about a display’s PPI when it tries to fit RGB into 2 or so pixels. Sometimes this leads to funny off colors which tells you it’s not possible with your current display. It’s there for the future.
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Do you think it will be possible to integrate this shader into retrotink4k in the future?
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