RTINGS.com has a pretty dim picture of the subpixel structure of the 55OLEDE6P, and judging from a comment they made on their review of the E8 model, supposedly all four subpixels are never on at the same time, which explains why green is nowhere to be seen. That said, at the very least it appears White is in between Red and Blue, and Green is after Blue. Some of your pics appear to say otherwise, though, so I dunno.
3 Likes
Yeah, I’d seen that one and even made a composite of them in the “OLED subpixels. How do they work?” thread, but I wasn’t sure if Cyber’s actually reflected what was in those images, e.g. whether the white sub is ever lit outside of HDR, as others have posited, and whether that huge void between the rows is actually there all of the time or if that’s part of the anti-burn-in load balancing (i.e., by turning off half of the rows each frame), etc.
3 Likes
Seems like I’ll definitely need to use a different camera in order to get those subpixels in focus.
We know about the white OLED subpixel, but do we know how this white light is created? Remember white light contains the full colour spectrum and so any color can be derived from that white light source.
Let’s suppose this white subpixel is composed of different colour subpixel elements then that white subpixel doesn’t even have to be white all the time.
https://www.oled-info.com/lgs-wrgb-oled-tv-sub-pixels-captured-macro-photo
https://www.oled-info.com/lgs-8-gen-line-will-produce-oled-backlit-lcds-not-true-oled-tvs
https://www.oled-info.com/kodak/kodak_oled_systems_information_and_interview
https://www.oled-info.com/olednet-best-way-increase-yields-use-white-oled-color-filter
Post in thread ‘OLED SCREEN BURN ( permanent image retention)’ https://www.hifivision.com/threads/oled-screen-burn-permanent-image-retention.79965/post-880631
Post in thread ‘OLED SCREEN BURN ( permanent image retention)’ https://www.avforums.com/threads/oled-screen-burn-permanent-image-retention.2056624/post-26585457
Post in thread ‘OLED SCREEN BURN ( permanent image retention)’ https://www.avforums.com/threads/oled-screen-burn-permanent-image-retention.2056624/post-26585500
1 Like
This makes a lot of sense because red and blue have the lowest luminance by far compared to green.
3 Likes
Sorry for delayed response not only is the little one keeping us busy we all caught COVID over the last few days. If it doesn’t rain it pours! 
🤦 We’re all fine btw.
So this does sound like a sharpening issue - the mask you’re choosing should be RGBX as in 600TVL with a 4K resolution. As it’s the last thing the shader does then any kind of ringing/bleeding is most likely being introduced by the TV. It could be Retroarch scaling settings but thats easy to rule out - just use integer scaling.
Go through your TVs options and turn off any image manipulation stuff but primarily sharpening and see if it makes it better.
3 Likes
I am not totally sure that this is a sharpening issue and not a subpixel layout issue.
What we really need, as @hunterk described, is a plain white screen or 50% grey so we can discern what the actual subpixel structure is.
I feel like we’ve been down this road many times before and always arrive at the same conclusion, but maybe there’s something unique to this particular display.
3 Likes
I understand. I just reopened the issue since we now have the ability to do some further first hand testing, which has the potential to bring some sort of innovation or improvement.
I missed this interesting tidbit from the RTINGS review:
Update 12/02/2016: With the newest firmware update (04.30.19) there has been the addition of a HDR gaming mode. In this mode the HDR input lag is lower, and should be fine for HDR gaming. Note that although the TV accepts a 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + HDR signal, it can’t accurately display the chroma subsampling in any HDR mode, even with the ‘PC’ icon selected. The HDR chroma subsampling looks the same as the B6, visible here .
What I’ve observed with this TV is that while it fails at the subpixel accuracy tests, it still manages to excel at the pixel level and beyond. I hope whoever is reading can understand what I’m saying but it makes sense. If the TV couldn’t accurately colour individual pixels, then it would never be good at displaying anything despite its excellent black levels.
So while it spoils the mask appearance from up close and personal, it doesn’t seem to have much if any negative effect on the CRT Shader generated image at distances where the mask, “phosphors” and individual RGB subpixels blend and can no longer be seen.
3 Likes
Hello, I have an 65" LG OLED CX connected to a nVidia 1080. HDR is enabled in RetroArch and the TV is also showing that it is receiving an HDR signal. Nevertheless, when selecting any of the Megatron HDR presets I get a super washed out picture with almost no color left (almost black and white). Am I missing something here? Other shaders work without problems.
3 Likes
All fixed and I don’t know how. 
But now it looks awesome. Especially happy with the MX8000 preset since I also own this.
Thank you for this awesome work!
2 Likes
Are those photos of the shader? Looks amazing. What tv settings and shader settings used?
1 Like
I’ve got the new 42 inch LG OLED which has a max nits of around 720.
I love bfi far more than I thought I would which brings the max brightness even lower so I’m using the jvc pro preset which basically has no mask so the overall brightness is usable.
I’m curious what luminance i should use with bfi, should it still be 720 or should I lower it to the lower perceived luminance which bfi causes?
2 Likes
I also have a question, what CRT is the Toshiba Microfilter preset modeled after?
1 Like
The idea is to get it as bright as possible therefore you should probably use the max nit value.
1 Like
Just wanted to share a possible breakthrough when it comes to OLED TVs and CRT shader masks.
They seem to work best with BGR layout!
Take a look at these results:
2 Likes
Interesting. I couldn’t tell any difference, but I’ll try again and look closely
1 Like
Apologies for the delay in replying I’m in the midst of developing a Reshade add-on and all my attention is going into that at the moment (along with my 3 month old son )
As @Cyber said just raise it to the highest luminance possible - it’s pretty much luminance always wins the day. With BFI are you noticing it helps when you look at the main sprite or background?
1 Like
Hi @Jamirus that’s a work in progress - I think I had photos from a Tekbright 700P but I never got around to fully matching it. Basically ignore it - it’s one for the future.
2 Likes
Depending on your settings i.e preset there may not be a difference as I may not have implemented the BGR layout for the particular mask. Most are done but you’d have to look through the masks in the shader code to be sure.
1 Like
Hi @Cyber hope you’re well so my first idea would be to use SDR mode and see if that resolves the mask issues. Then you can rule out whether it’s the TV crunching chroma in HDR mode or something else in your display pipeline.
1 Like
Greetings @MajorPainTheCactus, I think this response might have been intended for @faxesystem.
I’ve all but eliminated all of my issues with masks not displaying correctly on my OLED TV using the appropriate mask and subpixel layout settings in CRT-Guest-Advanced. I’m almost sure they will also apply to your shader.
I shared the link with my findings so you can follow. Hopefully with this knowledge you can finally update your guidance and start officially supporting OLED TVs just as LCD TVs.
Basically things look really messed up using RGB but much more like they’re supposed to using BGR Layout. This is with RRGGBBX Mask.
Do you have this mask layout available in Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor?
Eventually, I’ll load up the shader and try to share some even nicer Sony Megatron Color Video Monitor, The Legend of Zelda pics!
1 Like