Truly amazing work. I’ve never seen an emulated slot mask look this good. The TVL is almost a perfect match, too. Words can’t capture how good this is.
Edit: what pattern did you wind up using for this?
Yes and does not align well with scanlines. Of course I saw, but I don’t know any shader using that pattern (?). Which shader you know that does that?
For the matter, Lottes already did mask 1 that does that pattern (compressed-for 1440p) with kind of rotated bright “strip” (horizontally while it should be vertical in reality). Except if you want to make LCD look exactly like a CRT, so you would need an 8K monitor at least. Then the monitor just makes all the job for you, having so much space available. No rocket science.
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Thanks @Nesguy! I hoped you might like it! I’m pretty excited by this as really it allows me to simulate any CRT pretty accurately on my 4K screen.
So the mask is:
RGBX, RGBX
RGBX, XXXX
RGBX, RGBX
XXXX, RGBX
For a 600TVL TV on a 4K monitor this works great. I also added ones for 800TVL, 1000TVL and those again on 8K TVs.
I’ve found some decent photos of a 350TVL PVM1910 I’m going to simulate. Also I’m hoping to get some decent pics of a JVC dot mask monitor.
I plan to create HDR presets of each monitor I can find decent pictures of so if you have any or no anybody with a CRT please point them in the direction of my thread:
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Technically that is 540 TVL. 2160 / 4 pixels in Y = 540. You have 540 distinct horizontal lines (you divided your Y resolution with the black line times 4. If using Trinitron mask the Y is divided by scanlines effect 
).
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Yes I’m aware it’s not exact, I just use typical resolutions of CRTs 600TVL, 800TVL and 1000TVL that I can approximate. However it’s also not true it’s 540 as you aren’t taking into account the slight over draw I have on the y axis due to integer scaling so it’s actually 560.
I also think a lot of CRTs aren’t truly 600TVL as usually there is an overdraw area on them. Back in the day when I developed console games on CRTs you used to have an area that you wouldn’t put critical things in so that users didn’t miss out important stuff like scores or maps. I reckon we’re roughly the same on TVL.
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I second this! Very good job @MajorPainTheCactus! How come no one else came up with these patterns that work so well after all this time? Hopefully this new pattern will be something that can trickle down to other CRT Shaders as well. Right now I’m HDR-Less. Is it possible to use this shader on a non-HDR display that might happen to be bright enough?
I would add that I recently fell in love with the JVC D-Series after seeing some pictures of them in action on Reddit. I tried to get some sort of slot mask working using CRT-Guest-Advanced but the results weren’t quite there yet and I put it on the back burner.
Look out for these JVC D-Series pics at the end of this post. Unfortunately they’re not standardized.
The real deal! CRT Shaders wouldn’t be anywhere today without their ancestors!
And here’s another one!
Hi, It’s interesting that you would ask that. Just this morning I was playing around with trying to get the Shadow Mask as well as Slot Mask CRT look for different reasons. I believe the JVCs use Slot Mask, while Shadow Masks are what many computer monitors used. It’s not always that simple to get something that gels together and works properly or even matches the CRT counterparts. I don’t think the technology is quite there yet. There are always some compromises that need to be made especially if you want things to be plug and play and user friendly. Stay tuned!
This zoomed in screenshot is from one of the pics of the JVC AV-32D303 from my earlier post.
Here’s a Trinitron for comparison:
Wow! I’m completely blown away by this! It’s like we’ve reached!!
Do you mind sharing your colour tweak settings for future reference?
This is nothing short of amazing!!
Congratulations Team Mega Bezel!!
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It should but it is not currently possible. Think about it this way. In order to hit 1000 nits brightness, OLEDs (Like the LG G1) need to put a heatsink on the panel…it’s difficult. HDR just means that the displays allows for high brightness.
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Ok so I have some more CRT picture comparisons! I found two better images I’d been sent of a high end Sony PVM 20L4 (an 800TVL display) and the Bang & Olufsen MX8000 (a shadow mask display). I’m going to submit this to Github once I’m done with this post.
Last night I submitted a major recfactor of my shader to allow support for lots of different monitor types. You can find all the current presets in HDR and a few I plan to simulate. I’ve got fairly decent photos of a Sony PVM 1910 which is a fairly low res PVM at 350TVL. I plan to do that next and I’m also looking at photos of the JVC Professional series that use a dot mask.
Anyway here are those photos. Note I’m still a little lower res than the PVM and I’ve fixed the eyes in the MX8000. Also the colours are more off in the MX8000 but I have no idea what is iPhone processing and what is not. As always if anybody have better photos then send them my way.
Sony PVM 20L4
Bang & Olufsen MX8000
CRT Photo: iPhone: Auto Settings
LCD Photo: OnePlus 8 Pro Camera: Pro Mode, ISO 200, WB 5000K, Aperture Speed 1/60, about 10cm from the screen, 48MPixel JPEG.
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Pretty nice! I didn’t even realize this one wasn’t a shot of a crt until I opened the large version and zoomed In a bunch 
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Thanks for all this @Cyber! I really want to do the JVC stuff the problem is getting decent pictures - everybody seems to take pictures of the games and not pictures of the displays. I’m really keen on seeing a close up of a JVC dot mask display.
As for getting the shader on an SDR display I’m not sure. There are a few displays that get bright enough in SDR so it might work on those but you’d need to disable the HDR10 part. Mind you those displays are capable of HDR so maybe it’s a moot point. You need a displayHDR 600 rated monitor at least.
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We’re coming on aren’t we! Glad you like it!
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Things are looking much better for me. I’ve found if I set the shader to 8k with 800TVL I get a chunky mask. 4k at 600k makes large gaps and the overall image is darker. The RGB/BGR has no noticeable effect at 8k. Great work on the shader. (Here are phone pics adjusted to show mask breakup.)
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Interesting you should try going back the 4K 600TVL mask and adjust your paper white up (and play around with Contrast). The one you’ll be using is probably bringing down your TVL to around 430 or something and your QN90A is more than capable of making 600TVL bright enough!
I reckon it can do a pretty good job of the Sony PVM 20L4 shader I just released last night - it needs super high brightness. Please post some pics! (using standardized settings: iso 100, shutter speed 1/60, WB5000)
Sadly HDR is a bit like this you need mess around with settings a lot to get the best for your display.
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first one looks consumer-grade, although I’m not really sure it’s working as intended anymore because I don’t see RGB stripes in the whites.
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When I get time I’ll take some better pictures. I can’t get the contrast where I want and the whites feel muted unless I do 8k at 800TVL. (So many variables it’s bound to be something I’ve got wrong.)
@MajorPainTheCactus I’d be curious to see a picture of the Snes 240p test suite color bars with your setup.
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Alright last type of display to try: the shadow mask.
On a 4K screen this has proved the hardest as it kind of falls in between two masks. One mask is too fine and so you can see really see it and the other is quite coarse although I prefer it to the very fine one.
I haven’t even tried to match shape and size of the scanlines on this one - literary first try at getting something roughly right.
Anyway here are the photos let me know what you think?
Viewsonic A90f+
Coarse Shadow Mask
Fine Shadow Mask
CRT Photo: No idea - off the internet
LCD Photo: OnePlus 8 Pro Camera: Pro Mode, ISO 200, WB 5000K, Aperture Speed 1/60, about 10cm from the screen, 48MPixel JPEG.
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That looks great already. The fine mask is only one triad per scanline too small by my count, while the coarse one is fully twice as large as it should be.
Which patterns are you using?
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Hi @hunterk, thanks! So at 4K fine is the standard 2x2:
MG
GM
That you all said and then coarse is one I made up (but has undoubtedly already been made) 6x4:
GRRBBG
GRRBBG
BBGGRR
BBGGRR
So basically I need a three height one. Something like:
YMC
WWW
RGB
Where the middle row is a combination of the top and bottom - in this case white.
Any ideas or solutions you have are greatly welcome!
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Hi @BendBombBoom I’m very keen for this to work for you - your photos do look over dark and over saturated but I’m not sure whether that is your camera or your display. The second image is correct in terms of shape, size and spacing of phosphors and scanlines with respect to my PVM but obviously if you like the look of the first then go with that!
If you can post the exif settings of your photo ISO, shutter speed, WB etc - you might need to enable this on your iPhone.
If you can try turning off anything like ‘Dynamic Tone Mapping’ on your TV - in fact turn off any ‘intelligent’ display auto calibration as it will undoubtedly screw this scenario up. Also make sure your TV is not set to any extreme settings such as max contrast, hue, white balance etc etc. Make sure it isn’t in any odd colour space etc.
Secondly in the shader maybe try putting your peak luminance and paper white to 700 (like I have) and tweak your contrast. Thirdly if that doesn’t work try doubling your peak and paper white from your monitors actual peak and again play around with the contrast.
Also yes I need to focus on colours soon - I have a plan and I will post the colour gradients youre talking about. However the images you posted are so far out in terms of colour that I massively doubt any ‘tweaking’ is going to help fix that - it looks to me to be a more fundamental issue.
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